Fried Points/Capacitor

[LH Drive]

Has anyone fried the distributor points? I'm new to the points/capacitor condensor system and did'nt adjust it when I timed the engine to set the idle on the new carb. Was used to the electronic advanced system that you don't mess with. Anyway, she ran fine for a couple of days then she died and would not start. Smoke and a bad smell came from the engine bay. I quickly disconnected the battery incase I had a short somewhere. I traced the smoke to the distributer cap. The back of my hand also noticed that the coil was hot as pain rushed to my brain to remove it. The wire that connects the coil to points also did'nt survive.
Will I need a new coil to go with the new points?

[J!m]

If that happened to me, I'd replace everything.

Also check the wires that supply power to the coil, and the ignition switch. If a lot of current or spark voltage went the wrong way, you may have done additional damage not immediately seen....

[singingcamel]

did you leave the ignition on..:nono:

[LH Drive]

did you leave the ignition on..:nono:
Yes I did,,without the engine running. I was fixing the turn signal wiring problem I had and needed to find the short. I Did'nt know you could not leave the ignition on but it makes sence now. That would send constant power to the coil,coil wire to the points/condenser causing and overload after 5 min or so. I walked away from it after I sorted the turn signal problem and cut the ignition off. About an hour later I returned to turn the rover on and it started but stalled soon after followed by smoke out of the distributor cap. I wonder if the alternator got some of this too.
Ahhh, Life with a Series. I'll be ordering new coil,points,codenser,distributor cap,rotor,plug wires, spark plugs and see if she'll forgive me.

[KevinNY]

I thought that was not an issue with series III's?

[Jeff Aronson]

Leaving the ignition on while you work on the car will send current through the system but it should not fry anything in a points system. The points may be pitted, but filing them gently should enable them to work. It was the death knell for a Petronix that my other II-A, the QM I, came with, however.

One time, I had a similar problem with my TR-7. When I started the car, all was normal for a few moments. Then, smoke poured out of the engine compartment. Most of the wiring was melted. The culprit was a short in the alternator. It's live when you turn on the key and a short will feed back through all the ignition system. I think a short in the starter can do the same thing, but I don't think a starter will work with a short it in. The alternator receives 12 v through the key when you turn it to "on." If it's not shutting off, then you're sending too many volts through the wiring as it overcharges.

Have your alternator tested for a short or for a faulty regulator. Replace it if necessary before installing all the new ignition parts.

Good luck,

Jeff

[LH Drive]

Thanks Jeff, I will remove the alternator and have it bench tested.

[LH Drive]

Yep, the Lucas 16ACR alternator is not working. Local Auto electric shop quote me $40 to fix the problem or $85 for a complete alternator rebuild. I went with the rebuild, will be ready some time next week.
I did expect to replace many parts since it had been parked for over 4 years. I'm glad I only work 4 blocks away from home so I can just walk. My wife loves the look of the old Series 3 and can't wait to start driving it, but she is conserned it will not be reliable. I tell her little by little it will one day be newer than her car.

[LH Drive]

They had parts in house so it was done that same day. It came with a 2 year warranty.

[Jeff Aronson]

Good news - that's a great electrical shop! I wish I had one close by me. When they test the alternator, make certain it's only putting out 14.5 v or so. Sometimes the testing is only whether it's putting out a charge, and I once got one back that put out 18v. It shortened the battery life substantially.

Once you have installed the new ignition parts, you should not have any other problem. If there's a significant wobble at the distributor shaft, it won't time well and the points will degrade quickly. If you have the wobble, consider replacing the distributor with the "new style Lucas." It comes complete with cap, rotor, points, condenser, etc., but boy, what a difference it makes to have the distributor working smoothly. My II-A idled so much better, and ran better, with the distributor working properly.

A Series III can be really reliable daily transportation once you sort out the ignition issue. Good for your wife for enjoying the car!

Good luck,

Jeff

[LH Drive]

It's ALIVE....IT's ALIVE !!!!!
Like Dr. Frankinstein said. Well I installed a fresh set of points and the same thing happened again. The last thing I was working on before the ignition problem started was a short in the turn signal. My front pass. clear parking light acts as a turn signal while the real turn signal does nothing. So I ran a direct ground wire to the battery from both parking/turn signal and got them to work. Then the ignition problem started. So I disconnect the ground wire I ran to the parking/signal light, installed another new set of points and she turned over like nothing ever went wrong. Sounds and idles better with the new ignition parts I installed.
Now with the alternator working a red Charge light comes on when the ignition is on but cuts off once the engine starts. The alternator is putting out 13.5 volts towards the battery and my headlights are nice and bright.