Rivets......specific sizes.....

[knac1234]

Hello all,

I have been advised to get rivets from Big Flat Rivets.

I am hoping someone can give me the following info on size/type and material (ie. aluminum, stainless??? no rust issues):

-Rivets that hold the pie plate to the bonnet (want to use pop rivets here)
-Galvy trim (rear lamp area on the tub, etc...).....what size pop rivets and what size hammer rivets (both on the trim and the line that goes the length of the tub just under the trim that were not painted out of the factory)
-Rivets to apply all seals (doors)
-Gutter trim to roof (look like hammer rivets)

I invested in a pneumatic pop rivet gun that handles 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, and 1/4 pop rivets, so I'm good there. Hammer rivet gun and bucking bar I'm a little foggy on though.

Will this gun do it for the hammer rivets?

http://www.harborfreight.com/3x-air-riveting-hammer-with-5-piece-chisel-set-97857.html

Bucking bar....anything specific. Won't I need something small to fit on the backside of the gutter trim when reattaching the roof top?

I got some insight from an earlier post, but now I'm ready to get the stuff to do the job!!!

Regards,
Julian

[SafeAirOne]

Unless somebody knows the correct diameter of the driven ("hammer") rivets you are replacing, you can figure out the rivet diameter yourself based on the size of the hole after removing the old rivet. Get appropriately sized (diameter) rivets based on the hole size.

The length of the rivet grip should be the total thickness of all the sheets you are riveting plus 1.5 times the rivet diameter. If you are riveting lots of different stuff of varing thickness, it is easier to buy long rivets and cut them to size using a rivet cutter (http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,4368.html).

If I'm not mistaken, all the rivets should be aluminum (not stainless).

Bucking bars come in many shapes and sizes/weights. Surely one of these (http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/2,381.html)will work on the rivets you need to buck.

That rivet gun looks acceptable, though I've always considered Harbor Freight to sell cheap, disposeable stuff. At least that's the case with all the harbor freight stuff I have...

The roof gutter trim uses semi-tubular rivets (http://www.hansonrivet.com/w02.htm), if I'm not mistaken, so you need to use a tubular roll clinching set (http://www.hansonrivet.com/w80a.htm)in the rivet gun or a rivet squeeze (http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,3897.html)and semi-tubular rivet dies (http://www.hansonrivet.com/w83.htm) to roll the tubular portion correctly.

[crankin]

Pie plate to the bonnet is hammer rivets on the 72.

The air rivet gun will work.

The bucking bar can be bought through Big Flats.

If i remember correctly there are only two length sizes that Big Flats supply on the solid hammer rivets. Get both sizes....you never know what all you will need to fix and its better to have everything you need there. You can cut to length if need be....but round and smooth the ends. If the on side of the end is higher you will mess up the "mushroom".

Closed end rivets are what you want to get for your blind pop rivets. Check out Pegasus. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=642

I purchased all the different lengths that they had just so that I was covered on all my applications.

No clue about the roof.

Check this video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1hB3rIECtxM

[SafeAirOne]

Closed end rivets are what you want to get for your blind pop rivets. Check out Pegasus. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=642

Personally, I wouldn't go with the steel mandrel on an exterior application unless you REALLY need the added shear strength--After a while, the mandrel begins to rust and leaves rusty drip streaks. If I needed the shear strength, I'd go with aluminum rivets and stainless mandrels, even though they're slightly more reactive with the aluminum. Otherwise, it's plain old aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels.

The 3 varieties can be seen here: http://www.hansonrivet.com/w22.htm

[crankin]

you know...i forgot all about the steel mandrel.

[knac1234]

Crankin/Mark,

Thanks for the input as always.

Yes, the Harbor Freight gun is cheap, but unless I ever redo what I am doing on the Rover, it will be a one-time use!

Sounds like aluminum rivets then all around. If you think I need anything stronger structurally (I've listed all that I am doing), let me know.

Roof-semi tubular and a special tool! Man, another tool that I'll use once only, but of course there are a ton of rivets holding that roof gutter on!

Cheers,
Julian