More powerful engine searches again.....

[northshorelocal]

Okay so after using a friends 109 where I live I defintiely will need a stronger engine that a well tuned 2.25. My friends rover has a new 2.25 and with a load of soil in the 109 we barely in 1st gear made it up some streets. So what strong pulling engine can I throw in the rover. I posted here before and most of those options I was given after reaserching will give minimal power boast. I did appreciate all the advice and help though. Any ideas would be great. I may have to do some more major body work to get the likes of what I need as a powerplant I am starting to think,lol.

[J!m]

200 Tdi.

[Tim Smith]

200 Tdi.
Agreed, but you had better make sure your drive-train is up to snuff. Anything more and you'll start breaking stuff at the drop of a hat.

[J!m]

That goes without saying for any power/torque increase, not just the 200.

I suggested the 200 because it is the easiest serious swap to do on a series truck. Welding is required, but it's pretty straight-forward.

The 200 is a good motor too- same power as the 300, but slightly less reliable and noisier.

The 300 requires a transmission change and that complicates things futher...

[TeriAnn]

I suggested the 200 because it is the easiest serious swap to do on a series truck. Welding is required, but it's pretty straight-forward.
I agree completely. The 200tdi or a GM/Mercruiser 4 cyl are your best bets for real power increase at "minimal" cost. Anything more powerful will likely require a gearbox swap plus a Salisbury or equivalent for a reliable conversion. Then you are into system design & integration with loads of subtle possible gotchas.

But once you get into the realm of a gearbox & axle assembly swap lots of possibilities open up.


http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/efi.jpg
For instance a 1970 Ford 302 with 1991 Mustang EFI & a BW T-18 gearbox

Interesingly, a Ford 302 with aluminum heads is lighter in weight that a LR 2.25L engine, can get as good or better fuel mileage than the 2.25L petrol engine on regular and has more HP & torque off idle than the 2.25L has at peak.:D

[Tim Smith]

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/efi.jpg
For instance a 1970 Ford 302 with 1991 Mustang EFI & a BW T-18 gearbox


Interesingly, a Ford 302 with aluminum heads is lighter in weight that a LR 2.25L engine, can get as good or better fuel mileage than the 2.25L petrol engine on regular and has more HP & torque off idle than the 2.25L has at peak.:D




Looking good TeriAnn!

[northshorelocal]

Know much about these engines? Decent upgrade in power and parts I assume are quite accessible? I can get a disassembled one for $200 canadian so maybe a good idea? i think they drop quite easily into a 62' 109 3 door too? all info/advice appreciated.

[TeriAnn]

Know much about these engines? Decent upgrade in power and parts I assume are quite accessible? I can get a disassembled one for $200 canadian so maybe a good idea? i think they drop quite easily into a 62' 109 3 door too? all info/advice appreciated.

The Chevy 6 is just tad longer than the LR 6.

For a 4 cyl engine bay: You need either a 6 cyl bulkhead or to rework your bulkhead with a deeper bell housing dish. The gearbox gets moved rearwards. the rear prop shaft gets shortened.

The starter motor is on the front prop shaft side. Since you will need a longer front prop shaft, you can get a smaller diameter front propshaft made with the length you need from Great Basin Rovers. You will need to remove a divot from the leading edge of the bulkhead cross member where the front propshaft passes over. Also a geared starter motor is a good idea since they are smaller than the stock starter motor.

The radiator will need to be moved forward so that it sits on top of the front cross member. This will require new mounts and modifications to the radiator ducting. I suggest an aluminum cross flow radiator.

The Chevy mechanical fan sits too low. I recommend going to an electric pusher fan. I use an electric fan off a V8 Mercedes. It just fits into the space in front of a cross flow radiator and is cheap at the wrecking yard.

Of course a rear Salisbury is always a good idea. Scotty always recommended using the Chevy 250 six with a LR gearbox. He felt the bigger engines were just too powerful for long term gearbox reliability.

Some people, but not all, have had to notch their front cross member to get the engine to fit. It depends upon how far rearward you move the gearbox.

That's pretty much all the gotchas. It is a good, reliable, smooth running engine. Be sure to source a bell housing adapter before plunking down your $$ for an engine.

[jp-]

The Chevy 6 is just tad longer than the LR 6.

For a 4 cyl engine bay: You need either a 6 cyl bulkhead or to rework your bulkhead with a deeper bell housing dish. The gearbox gets moved rearwards. the rear prop shaft gets shortened.

The starter motor is on the front prop shaft side. Since you will need a longer front prop shaft, you can get a smaller diameter front propshaft made with the length you need from Great Basin Rovers. You will need to remove a divot from the leading edge of the bulkhead cross member where the front propshaft passes over. Also a geared starter motor is a good idea since they are smaller than the stock starter motor.

The radiator will need to be moved forward so that it sits on top of the front cross member. This will require new mounts and modifications to the radiator ducting. I suggest an aluminum cross flow radiator.

The Chevy mechanical fan sits too low. I recommend going to an electric pusher fan. I use an electric fan off a V8 Mercedes. It just fits into the space in front of a cross flow radiator and is cheap at the wrecking yard.

Of course a rear Salisbury is always a good idea. Scotty always recommended using the Chevy 250 six with a LR gearbox. He felt the bigger engines were just too powerful for long term gearbox reliability.

Some people, but not all, have had to notch their front cross member to get the engine to fit. It depends upon how far rearward you move the gearbox.

That's pretty much all the gotchas. It is a good, reliable, smooth running engine. Be sure to source a bell housing adapter before plunking down your $$ for an engine.

I ran a chevy 6 for years. You don't have to move the breakfast forward (but you will have to notch it out). I didn't have to shorten/lengthen either drive shaft. My engine was originally a Land Rover 6 (now back in). You should be able to use Land Rover 6 driveshafts. The only issue with the front is that is can drag on the starter (smaller starter is a good idea).

A mechanical fan will work. Electric is better though (especially if mounted to the radiator).

Also, I didn't have to move the transmission or notch the front x-member. If you want to fit this engine, I recommend you take your transmission measurements off of a 6 cylinder Rover before moving your 4-cylinder trans.

[northshorelocal]

I was reditrected by Advanced Adapters in the U.S. to marks4wd.com website and they have adapters for all that is needed to adapt the 6cyl' chevy directly into the 4cylinder 109" I was told over the phone. I will likely make another call tomorrow and speak with another person there just to be sure this works. I have got a good long block chevy and just located a high mileage complete engine that I will strip off all that is needed for the long block engine that is in excellent shape.
Feel free to check out this marks website that is based in Oz but sells to Advanced adapters and that is who I will be purchasing the enginme kit,engine mounts and fly wheel kit. Lets see how this pans out now....lol...

Jason

[TeriAnn]

I ran a chevy 6 for years. You don't have to move the breakfast forward (but you will have to notch it out). I didn't have to shorten/lengthen either drive shaft. My engine was originally a Land Rover 6 (now back in). You should be able to use Land Rover 6 driveshafts.
Scotty's conversions also left the radiator bulkhead in its stock location. You do not need to notch the front crossmember if the engine & gearbox are moved slightly rearwards. It is easier to convert a LR6 to Chevy six by keeping everything where it is & notching the front crossmember. But since you need to move a 4 cyl gearbox rearwards and rework the bulkhead anyway, its probably easier just to locate everything for engine clearance. Note that the 6 cly gearbox is located a couple inches rearward of the 4 cly gearbox location.




A mechanical fan will work. Electric is better though (especially if mounted to the radiator).
It can be made to work, but Chevy 6 conversions with stock mechanical fan had a reputation for overheating when trailing in the desert. People got the best performance from mechanical fans by using a belt driven remote mount mechanical fan. The stock one doesn't cover that much of the LR radiator.

If you decide to make the conversion and come up with the adapter, let me know. I can post you a copy of Scotty's conversion instructions.

[jp-]

TeriAnn,

My Radiator was a specially made 4-core one. It sat on the front x-member and not behind it like the Land Rover one. Maybe this is why I had more room. The transmission was not moved.