Series Door Tops modification

[B. Wallace]

Has anyone ever tried to modify a Series door so that BOTH windows will slide? Kind of like the one you can buy for a Defender, except I don't like the "diagonal" look of the glass in it. I've got pieces left over from the track replcements, and it seems like you could remove all of the fixed peices and lay a double track like the rear windows. Figuring out a locking mechanism would be another thing, but less of a concern. I doesn't look too difficult, but I don't know if the top is wide enough to do it yet. ANy suggestions, or does anyone know that this WON'T work?

Ben

[Jim-ME]

I accomplished the two window slide by purchasing Rocky Mnt. door tops. Although not genuine Rover I've read great things on other forums and less $ to boot. I'll post pics when they arrive and are installed.

[JimCT]

Their door tops are works of art, and a steal at the price the ask. I could not come close to making them myself.

[TedW]

...for a number of years now. Mine do NOT have the very kool double sliding glass option (it came out after I purchased). I agree with the post above that the quality is outstanding. They are 100% extruded aluminum with SS studs. Plus they have nifty riveted data plates on the trailing edge. IMO they are the only way to go given their price. They will probably outlast the rest of the truck.

[jp-]

...100% extruded aluminum with SS studs

Aluminum & Stainless :nono:

[JimCT]

Look at boat masts....aluminum and all SS hardware, and i salt water environment. One just has to do it correctly.

[J!m]

Look at boat masts....aluminum and all SS hardware, and i salt water environment. One just has to do it correctly.

Yes, they do. Choose the aluminum alloy carefully, and hard-anodize it before assembly. Also, a Mylar or other insulting material is used where they meet to slow corrosion...

You are into a whole different animal with a sailing ship.

[greenmeanie]

In aerospace we use stainless hardware in both aluminium and magnesium. The art of the game here is to use an epoxy chromate based primer. If it helps look for something that meets MIL-PRF-23377.

PS We also have to meet salt spray requirements for components most notably for naval aircraft.

Cheers
Gregor

[TeriAnn]

Has anyone ever tried to modify a Series door so that BOTH windows will slide? I doesn't look too difficult, but I don't know if the top is wide enough to do it yet. ANy suggestions, or does anyone know that this WON'T work?


Nice job of hijacking the thread, but no one has addressed the thread topic yet and I for one am curious if anyone has done it and how it came out.

I have a pair of door tops I bought in '96 that are in very good condition. I would hate to replace them if I don't have to but would like to have the front pane side open.

Anyone have an answer to the origiinal thread question???

[TedW]

"Wandering off" is more like it.
Here's what I would do:
1) Use double window track as you would in the big side windows in the back. Both wondows should slide nicely.

2) Getting them to lock might take some experimentation (this is where the Rocky Mountaineers did their homework) but here's a thought of what might work:
(For II-IIA)With both windows shut, measure the point on the front window just ahead of where the window lock pin sits when the lock is tuned on. That point is the trailing edge of where you can epoxy on a small square of glass or plexiglass the proper thickness to act as a catch. That should lock both windows shut.

[LaneRover]

I accomplished the two window slide by purchasing Rocky Mnt. door tops. Although not genuine Rover I've read great things on other forums and less $ to boot. I'll post pics when they arrive and are installed.

I think that this would count as an answer to the original question and it was one of the early responses.

LaneRover

[Chris McKnight]

RE thread wandering--I think TeriAnn was just giving a friendly jab cause she's interested in the answer. I'd be suprised if anyone around here really cared about a thread wandering around a bit if it was filled with interesting, useful information such as this one. Please correct me if I'm wrong, or better yet, we could start a new thread on wandering threads if it really matters to people.

As for the double slide question: as far as I can see, the issue is that two genuine tracks won't fit side by side in the trough. One could find an aftermarket one-piece double track that fits, or could probably cut off that lip on the inside of the door top. Since the door tops seem to leak even with the lip, I would think that they wouldn't leak anymore than they already do.

Since the fit is close, maybe the lip could be bent just a little to afford more room.

Chris

[B. Wallace]

Well, I have attempted the modification, and here's the results:

1. Chris you are correct, with the original tracks, side by side is too tight. I used one normal track and one "modified track" to sqeeze them both in.

2. AFTER solving the problem above, I realized that the front window is almost 1/2" taller than the back window. I comtemplated having it cut somewhere, but I did all this at night, and being my impatient self, decided to go another route.

3. Being that it is too tall, there is no room for a top track. After playing with it for a while, I decided it was OK without one, because the top track for the rear window holds it snug against the outside edge, and the top of the window doesn't hit the top of the frame. This serves as a track of it's own. It slides well this way, as does the rear.

4. Still haven't figured out a latch, but I think the one suggested earlier, while quite simple, would work really well. (Thanks!)

Overall, it turned out pretty good; Better air flow, and so far, $0. As far the passenger side, they're S.O.L, I ran out of channelling.:D

[TeriAnn]

RE thread wandering--I think TeriAnn was just giving a friendly jab cause she's interested in the answer. I'd be suprised if anyone around here really cared about a thread wandering around a bit if it was filled with interesting, useful information such as this one. Please correct me if I'm wrong, or better yet, we could start a new thread on wandering threads if it really matters to people.

Exactly!

On other forums I'm on the term "hijack a thread" is not a derogatory phrase. It just means that the thread had wondered away from the thread topic.

[LaneRover]

Exactly!

On other forums I'm on the term "hijack a thread" is not a derogatory phrase. It just means that the thread had wondered away from the thread topic.

I just meant to point out that an answer had been given as many times I forget to re-check a thread for responses (or for what the actual question was) - didn't mean it as a nasty response at all.

One of the problems with e-mail or forums is the lack of tone or mood. You can type something in one way and in your mind it seems fine, someone else can read it in a very different way!

LaneRover

In theory, there is no difference between practice and theory; in practice there is.

[Tim Smith]

As for the front glass being too tall. Couldn't a local glass shop cut it down for you? I don' think they are safety glass so there shouldn't be a problem with it. But I don't really know much about glass so who knows.

Also, as for the tracks, I have a pair of Rocky Mountain door tops too. When I bought them, I was told that all of the parts that they use to make these can be replaced through them. Maybe their tracking would fit in an original door top?

[amcordo]

Just wanted to bump this since summer is coming up and windows that open lots are desirable. Here's the locking mechanism you were looking for:
http://www.thehardwarehut.com/catalog-product.php?p_ref=17945



Well, I have attempted the modification, and here's the results:

1. Chris you are correct, with the original tracks, side by side is too tight. I used one normal track and one "modified track" to sqeeze them both in.

2. AFTER solving the problem above, I realized that the front window is almost 1/2" taller than the back window. I comtemplated having it cut somewhere, but I did all this at night, and being my impatient self, decided to go another route.

3. Being that it is too tall, there is no room for a top track. After playing with it for a while, I decided it was OK without one, because the top track for the rear window holds it snug against the outside edge, and the top of the window doesn't hit the top of the frame. This serves as a track of it's own. It slides well this way, as does the rear.

4. Still haven't figured out a latch, but I think the one suggested earlier, while quite simple, would work really well. (Thanks!)

Overall, it turned out pretty good; Better air flow, and so far, $0. As far the passenger side, they're S.O.L, I ran out of channelling.:D

[bchene]

I did this several years ago. Purchased the base Rocky Mountain door tops without the windows. The original tracks would not fit side by side in the door top. Went to the local boat supply store and purchased a set of dual plastic window tracks. They fit perfectly side by side in the door top slot. I held the top tracks in place by using silicon sealant and a piece of hardwood trim.
The original glass was an issue, too tall in the front. Went to a local glass shop and they attempted to cut it. Mistake! They had to use a combination cutter and heated blade to cut through the glass. The heat ruined the remaining glass.
So, for $20 they cut me two new pieces of safety glass 1/2 inch shorter.
Installed it and I can now slide both windows. The aluminum and rubber slider strip between the two panes also fit well.

[xsbowes]

Something like this might be easy to adapt. Although it is kind of wide.


http://www.technologylk.com/images/items/F2515.gif.axd?height=200&width=200
http://www.technologylk.com/crl-sliding-window-lock-1-1-2-screw-holes-for-hehr-lk-F2515.htm?src=nextag

[crankin]

Truck sliding glass latches...


http://www.gordonglassusa.com/imagehandler.ashx?image=DVL4AD.gif&height=250

Some more examples here:
http://www.gordonglassusa.com/group/663/CRL-Replacement-Latches.htm