I am a new owner of a 1971 series IIA 109 (Ex Mod). Last month I purchased it in Maine and drove it back to North Carolina (1002 Miles). During the trip I noticed that I was leaking a bit of fluid from one of the bolts that attaches the hub. I snugged the bolts and thought all was well. About 800 miles into the trip I realized I lost a bolt from the hub. After closer inspection two of the bolts could not be tightened because those positions on the hub were stripped out. I am guessing at some point maybe air tools were used and stripped out the threads. I have attached the photo of the front hubs and am asking for advice on 1) Is there a better / more durable hub system that can be used? 2) How does this hub work? One of the previous owners had the operating levers welded in place and I was told that is pretty common. On the hub with the missing bolts the welds have broken and move around while driving. I used duct tape to tape the levers in place while going down highway 95. I appreciate the information you guys have given me regarding my new Rover. As a previous owner of Jeeps I have lots to learn on Rovers.
Front Hubs
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HI,
Those are called dual-matic hubs. They were fitted to Series IIs and early IIas. I have them on my 64. When functioning properly, they are very sturdy- heavy duty hubs. They operate by pulling out the levers (2 per hub) and rotating them 360 degrees and then snapping them back in place. Each lever is engraved on both sides with one side reading "lock" and one side reading "free." They obviously should always read the same on both sides (and both hubs). Welding them shut (as the PO did) is defitnately not common. I believe the company was out of Colorado but they're no longer in business. Parts can be hard to find -assuming yours are even rebuildable. I would try Ike Goss at Pangolin 4X4 in Oregon. If you can rebuild them I would because they're very good hubs and kind of unique to Series Land Rovers. I'll let others give advice on aftermarket hubs because there are lots of options out there. Good luck.
romany -
It looks like the threads are stripped in the vehicle hub and not the free wheeling (FW) hub. You will need to determine that. If it is, you can use a threaded insert (helicoil) or you can replace the vehicle hub assembly with a new or used one. I think the FW hubs aren't worth trying to fix but others may think differently. New and used FW hubs can be found or you can replace them with new or good used drive flange as originally came on the vehicle. At any rate you first need to find out if the vehicle hub is stripped out and if it is, repair or replace it.
JimComment
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The bolts (short if just drive flanges, long if locking hubs are used) are BSF. BSF type heli-coils Are available in England, but I have never seen anyone over here carrying them. If it were me, I'd just heli-coil them for 3/8 fine thread grade 8 bolts. Well, actually, I'm lazy and probably would even do that, as I drove an 88 with only 4 bolts in both front hubs for 7 years.
I've seen plenty of striped holes in hubs, but not striped boltsComment
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British Tools and Fasteners has 3/8thsX20 helicoils http://www.britishfasteners.com/index.php?crn=342
They are not inexpensive. You might want to change the thread to the more common 3/8ths fine like Terry suggested.
JimComment
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Superwinch makes replacement hubs for series vehicles. They are about the normal price for a pair of FWH for any vehicle. They are similiar to every other hub that has come on American Jeeps and Trucks. I run superwinch. They work just fine.
Replacement might be an easier/cheaper option.Comment
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If it were me, I would go the warn or superwinch replacement route. The truck is not a stock concourse restoration, and I would feel better about having something that worked, and had parts readily availible if I needed them.
Helicoil those stripped hub nuts, and call it a day. Don't throw out the dualmatic hubs. You may find some rebuild parts, and can sell them to someone doing a restoration for a nice chunk of money.Bad gas mileage gets you to some of the greatest places on earth.Comment
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Superwinch
Last night I looked online for new hubs. I saw superwinch made new hubs for series rovers. I did not see any new production warn hubs. Am I correct on this? Any one know of any major drama with Superwinch hubs?1971 Ex Mod IIA 109
1985 D110
1998 D1 (Sold)Comment
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You are correct Warn no longer makes hubs for Rovers. You will need to check with the PO to see if you need either 10 spline or 24 spline hubs. If you need 10 spline hubs, Atlantic British and DAP both sell 10 spline AVM hubs which is about the only new 10 spline hub game in town. Ike Goss (Pangolin 4X4) may have some used Warn hubs for sale.
JimComment
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Superwinch hubs are made by AVM. P/N 400405 is for the 10-spline shafts. They don't appear to be as high quality as the Warn M11 hubs, that's for sure. I had to get one of my Superwinch hubs replaced due to casting voids in the main body.
Also, the Superwinch hubs tend to leak when used with the oil-filled vintage of hubs. My hubs are greased, so I don't have any issues.Comment
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I run superwinch. No problems. They just work. I will say that the old Fairey hubs were smoother but when I think about it, I mess with those hubs MAYBE twice a month so it doesn't matter.
Oh and don't bash them into rocks TOO forcefully. They don't like that. A little rock rash here and there, no biggie but a big hit, they protest. However I would like to think that this is to be expected.Comment
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Rationalized axles
Being I am new to this I researched "rationalized axles" once it was brought up a few responses down in the thread. From what I read 1980 is when rationalized axles became the norm. Am I correct with this? Being I own a 1971 IIA I take it I have non rationalized axles? Is the only diference one is greased and one is lubed with oil? I saw below that the Superwinch hubs leak with non rationalized hubs. Is that a leak like a few drops or my current leak that coats the tire and the side of my truck?1971 Ex Mod IIA 109
1985 D110
1998 D1 (Sold)Comment
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