Single circuit to dual circuit power brakes

[albersj51]

ive decided to convert my 67 2a 88" from single circuit to dual power (drums) brakes. I have a rolling chassis and I want to run new brake lines for a dual system. I can get all of the parts, but the shuttle valve is ridiculous at $200+. I read somewhere that they arent that effective anyway (and 88" didnt use them anyway). I also read that, to get the safety feature of the dual system, I could run 2 3-way junctions, 1 for the fronts and one for the rears. Basically run from the rear brake port on the MC to the 3-way then to the individual wheels. Same with the front. Is this correct?

Reading about flairs has given me a headache! Is it Double or Bubble flairs?

I'd also like to get feedback on my parts list/quantities, so I know I am all set.

Copper-Nickel lines 3/16" from Fedhillusa.com. I'll need 1 25 ft roll and 1 12 ft roll, or maybe 2 25ft rolls.
14 male and 14 female fittings (2 each for the rears, 4 each for the fronts, 2 each for the MC, 6 each for the 2 3-way junctions).
109 Clutch MC (My 88" has 109" front brakes).
Clutch MC
Flex hoses - 4
Stop light switch for top of the pedal tower. Already have a box and pedal.

Am I missing anything?

Thanks,

Jason

[jac04]

The shuttle valve was used on some late 88" Series IIIs. Anyhow, you need a 3-way junction to split the front line into a RH front & LH front. For the rears, simply run the line from the MC all the way back to the 3-way mounted on the rear axle case.

IIRC, the only place bubble flares are used is on the MC connections.

If you have the 11" front brakes, make sure to upgrade your 10" rear brakes to go with the 11" fronts. This will maintain brake balance. Post 1980, when Land Rover upgraded the 88" brakes to the bigger 11" front brakes from the 109", they also utilized the 10" rear brakes from the 109" to even things out. All you need to do is make sure that you are using the bigger bore rear wheel cylinders from a 109" (which are the same as the front wheel cylinders for the smaller 10" brakes). This is the setup on my Lightweight, and the brakes perform very well.

[albersj51]

Thanks, Jeff.

So my list of needed items is accurate and complete?

wonder why rover would use double flairs everywhere except the MC where they went with bubble flairs.

[jac04]

I'm not sure about the accuracy of your list. The male fittings for the MC are different sizes than the rest of the system. I come up with a total of 13 male fittings (not counting the MC) and 5 female. This is for the brake system only, and assumes that you are running one long line from the MC to the rear flex hose. Draw yourself a diagram and see what you come up with.

[I Leak Oil]

Hey you know fedhill is a great place to do business with and the owner is very helpful. He's got some cool cars in the shop and is only a few minutes from me. But....given what he's asking for the Cu,Ni piping, you can save yourself some cash by getting the same type of thing from NAPA. Just a thought.
I agree, draw yourself a diagram, it's the best way to do it.

[TeriAnn]

ive decided to convert my 67 2a 88" from single circuit to dual power (drums) brakes. I have a rolling chassis and I want to run new brake lines for a dual system. I can get all of the parts, but the shuttle valve is ridiculous at $200+

The US spec SIII 88s did not use shuttle valves. You can make up your own brake lines using a double flare tool and British connector ends. Last time I looked RN carried bare brake fittings. I went to my local auto parts store, purchased already made up brake lines, cut one end off, removed and discarded the US fittings, added a UK fitting to the end with the flare, bent the tubing into shape, trimmed it to fit, added the other fitting then made the flare at the other end. I got my double flare tool from Eastwood.

Anyway I wrote a web page describing how to make the conversion.

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/dual_brake_conv.htm

It won't give you a parts list but you should be able to figure it out fairly quickly.

[albersj51]

Thanks, everyone. Called NAPA and the first two said no, then I called an old place and they can get it for $45/25ft roll, about $10 less than fedhill.

Jeff- I like your routing idea for the rear, that way I can follow the original path and use less pipe.

I have a rough drawing made up, but it's at the house and I'm traveling. I'll probably re do it anyway and will do that in the hotel tonight.

TA-thanks, read your site several times and found it helpful.