Series III Locking Hubs V. Factory Drive Flange

[gzarembo]

Hi everyone,

I am trying to figure out what I am going to do with my rover,

I stripped out mostly all of my front drive flange bolts for one reason or another, it could be because the bolts were too tight or whatever, now that I have new hubs to put in (where the hub bolts screw in and attach to the axle) but I am at a standstill, currently I have locking hubs but I just found out that if I go back to factory stock hubs (no lock in) then I don't need to get out of the vehicle to engage the 4x4. Now DAP Inc. told me that it doesn't create anymore wear on the parts than if I were to keep the locking hubs.

Its probably easier than finding these crazy 3 1/2inch british fine bolts but at the same time the axle will still be spinning as before it didn't with the lock in hubs. It seems like an obvious anwser, create as less wear as you can but at the same time those babies are packed with grease anyways..If anyone has had similar concerns or knows what the best action to take here, I would really appreciate the help.

Thanks a lot,


Series III 88

[slorocco]

If it's not a daily commuter vehicle, I would go with the stock drive flange and ditch the hubs. It's a much simpler arrangement and it helps keep every thing lubed.

BTW my 2006 3/4 ton Dodge pickup came configured the same way from the factory. The front axle is always turning.

[redmondrover]

We had MAP freewheeling hubs on our 109 and swivel balls that were pitted on the top half but not the bottom. We went back to stock.

Our mechanic explained that unless you regularly lock your hubs to engage the front axle, you will end up with swivel balls pitted on the top half. Engaged axles keep the oil churning. Even with good seals on the swivels, every time you turn the wheels, a fine coating of oil is left on the exposed swivel metal and that works to prevent rust/pitting. So, in other words, the same thing that Slorocco said...

[gzarembo]

thanks for the help...I'm thinking I'll go back to the stock drive flange..it sounds a lot safer on that swivel, etc

[Ncrover725]

I am also in the same boat right now with deciding on the drive flange or hub route. After asking around and doing some thinking I came up with one reason to go with the hubs. If you have hubs and you lock up your front end you can place the hubs in "free" and make it back home. With the drive flanges it becomes a bit harder and would require a bit of work with some tools to make it happen. What are your guy's thoughts on this line of thinking?

[TedW]

IMO locking hubs come in handy if you make the occasional long road trip - especially if you do any highway driving.

However, for reasons already discussed, they should otherwise be left engaged.

[leafsprung]

I use locking hubs on my daily driven series trucks. IMO they do not contribute to swivel failure in any appreciable way. There is no bearing that needs lube in the top of the swivel its just a fiber bushing (railko) which is greased upon assembly. If you are genuinely concerned about the top swivel pin, add a grease fitting to it. Having broken more than one axle and several differentials in the front, I can tell you its pretty nice to be able to simply unlock the hubs and drive home . . .

[yorker]

If the locking hubs you have are in good shape then just use them. There isn't much sense in spending more $ on drive flanges if your locking hubs are fine. If you are worried about Railco wear then lock them once in a while, if the weather is bad lock them, other than that don't worry about it. Like Ike said the ability to isolate front drivetrain components is valuable not just for MPG or every day wear.

[SafeAirOne]

Having lost a front pinion bearing, I can attest to how much of a PITA it is to limp home without locking hubs.

[LR Max]

I'm an advocate of manual hubs. Considering I'm off road MAYBE once a month, having the truck setup for on road the rest of the time makes sense.

Dunno about MPG, but I can feel a difference at speed if the front axle is spinning.

Locking and unlocking hubs isn't that big of a deal unless you are hunting constantly or passing through rough terrain constantly. As of now, I'm going to off road parks. So while airing down, I just lock the hub. When airing up, unlock.

[PavementEnds]

So, for those with locking hubs, do you leave them engaged, only disengagng for long highway drives? On my other rigs I only engage when I have to shift into 4x4.

[LaneRover]

YOu can leave them engaged all the time, even on long highway drives.

Of course the only time it really makes any difference is on a long highway drive.

[bmohan55]

Around town - engaged. On a wheeling trip from Richmond to Crozet and back I found that I got about 2 mpg less on the way home when I forgot to dis-engage.

[siiirhd88]

I found that the hubs were always unlocked when I really needed them right away.... I ended up running them locked all of the time after I started getting moans from the front hubs....

I found the various types of lockout hubs usually leaked or seeped oil and have since replaced them with drive flanges.

Bob

[JimCT]

Unlocking them for long trips does make a difference. Keep them locked around town and when i get off the highway, never had a problem with leaking.

[LR Max]

Always unlocked unless I need my front axle/terrain is threatening to require it.

[LaneRover]

I tend to keep them locked unless I am doing a fair amount of highway driving.

I did snap an axle pulling into my alley back in Ocean Beach in California and had to roll back to where the truck would just sit still and not roll away because with a snapped axle the transmission brake doesn't work at all.

Or should I say it works fine braking the transmission but the transmission is no longer attached to any of the wheels with a snapped axle and no locker in the diff.

[yorker]

I lock mine in November and unlock them in April/May. Then as needed.

[Sputnicker]

I prefer to run unlocked as much as possible because there are fewer moving parts and less mass that the drivetrain needs to push around. That saves horsepower, friction, wear and gas. I can tell the difference on a smooth road - less drag and less vibration.

When I disassembled both (original) differentials a while back, there was noticeably less wear in the front - it looked almost new after 50 years and 120,000 miles. I also like the idea of not loading the front axles more than necessary because more fatigue cycles leads to a higher probability of breaking a front axle when you really need it.

To eliminate the concern about lubricating the upper railco bushing, I engage 4-wheel drive (but not necessarily the hubs) periodically to sling oil inside the swivels. No need to lock hubs for this because the parts inside the swivel will be rotating (and slinging oil) whenever 4-wheel drive is engaged.

[TedW]

To eliminate the concern about lubricating the upper railco bushing, I engage 4-wheel drive (but not necessarily the hubs) periodically to sling oil inside the swivels. No need to lock hubs for this because the parts inside the swivel will be rotating (and slinging oil) whenever 4-wheel drive is engaged.

I was under the impression that doing this was not so good for the mechanicals - although I never understood why. It seems to me that if the hubs are not engaged there is no risk of wind up or other related nastiness.

Can others confirm? I likey this idea........