What clutch fluid can I use? It says girling castrol...

[Tasi Autele]

The guys at the auto parts store do not have that in stock, nor have they heard of it. Can I use DOT 4?

[SafeAirOne]

Pep Boys stocked Castrol LMA last year, but I didn't see any on the shelf last month. Not sure if they discontinued stocking it, but the computer boy was clueless about what it was here too.

[bpj911]

I just use brake fluid from napa. Only difference between dot 3 and 4 is the boiling point to my knowledge. I don't think castrol lma is anything special nor do i think the land rover requires anything special. Seems like an old wives talke to me.

[TeriAnn]

Pep Boys stocked Castrol LMA last year, but I didn't see any on the shelf last month. Not sure if they discontinued stocking it, but the computer boy was clueless about what it was here too.

NAPA carries Castrol LMA fluid. British Pacific stocks it for LR owners who can not find the fluid locally.

[Terrys]

Use any good DOT 3. I wouldn't suggest DOT 4 if you don't know the age or pedigree of the rubber bits in your slave or MC.

[ThorH]

RN stocks it also.

[TeriAnn]

I just use brake fluid from napa. Only difference between dot 3 and 4 is the boiling point to my knowledge. I don't think castrol lma is anything special nor do i think the land rover requires anything special. Seems like an old wives talke to me.

Castrol LMA is specifically called out in the LR manual. LMA stands for Low Moisture Absorption. It is less hydrophilic than other DOT 4 fluids.

[SafeAirOne]

I think RN is supplying the Land Rover-branded brake juice now (as opposed to Castrol LMA). At least that's what I got the last time I ordered it.

[TeriAnn]

Use any good DOT 3. I wouldn't suggest DOT 4 if you don't know the age or pedigree of the rubber bits in your slave or MC.

The Land Rover factory manual recommends that all brake system rubber seals be replaced every three years or every 40,000 miles whichever is less whether the system is leaking or not.

Why not use DOT4? There is no compatibility issue like there is going from conventional brake fluid to DOT5 silicon fluid.

Good to know that RN carries Castrol fluid as well since fewer US auto parts stores are carrying it.

[bpj911]

All of them taste the same to me.

[Tasi Autele]

Thank you everyone. I think I will grab some DOT 3 since I am just trying to get rolling. I plan on having a rolling restoration so I will replace all the seals within the next year anyway. Thoughts?

[Terrys]

The Land Rover factory manual recommends that all brake system rubber seals be replaced every three years or every 40,000 miles whichever is less whether the system is leaking or not.
I think they stopped using monkey meat for their brake and clutch rubber parts, so that bit can probably be deleted. Seriously, 40K ? What vintage manual is that in? Frankly, I gave up paying attention to LR Manual recommendations about 20 years ago.


Why not use DOT4? There is no compatibility issue like there is going from conventional brake fluid to DOT5 silicon fluid.
No reason why not, but it's go to know you got my back. I can't keep straight where the silicone came in, 4 or 5, but in anycase, the clutch system isn't exposed to the heat that the brake system is, so 3 is adequate. One time I was WAY off the beaten path, and used 30 weight motor oil in the clutch to get out. Not only did it work fine, but with every other catastrophe I forgot about the oil for about 6 months.


Good to know that RN carries Castrol fluid as well since fewer US auto parts stores are carrying it.
Many years ago, when I bled Green, and Green & Yellow( Being heavily involved with Lotus "cars") I drank the Castrol koolaid. Today, I'm not so sure I think it matters.
There 's no question that conventional brake fluid was hydrophilic. The systems are prone to condensation too. What makes a greater difference to me is whether the new fluids are hydroscopic. Simply attracting water will do the nasties to the metalics in the system (brake or clutch) but if it also reacts to the water, then lots of other issues come into play.
Better go out and see if I put oil in my 110 clutch.

[cedryck]

So why does most LR literature make a big deal out of using only a certain type of fluid?, from what I'm reading people are putting in different types. Which type will not turn black after 2 months? Inquiring minds want to know.

[bpj911]

These are old trucks with old manuals. A lot has changed. I would put whatever you want in there. Parts wear out and need changing occasionally. Brake parts get changed in regular vehicles all the time. It happens

[TedW]

So why does most LR literature make a big deal out of using only a certain type of fluid?, from what I'm reading people are putting in different types. Which type will not turn black after 2 months? Inquiring minds want to know.

It is my understanding that the original hydraulic seals were made of a form of (natural?) rubber that would break down if exposed to anything other than Castrol GTLMA type fluid (DOT 4). Silicone (DOT 5) can also be used, but cannot be mixed with any other fluids.

However, it appears (from the experience of people on this forum) that the seals of current manufacture allow the use of other fluids without any ill effects.

That said, I stick with Castrol GTLMA because I can: it seems to be easy to get around here.

Corrections to my comments on fluids are welcomed.

[greenmeanie]

If it comes in a blue box that usually means it is Britpart. In this case it brings up the option that it doesn't matter what fluid you use as it will be leaking within a month anyway. Some of their stuff isn't bad but beware rubber from a blue box.

[amcordo]

If it comes in a blue box that usually means it is Britpart. In this case it brings up the option that it doesn't matter what fluid you use as it will be leaking within a month anyway. Some of their stuff isn't bad but beware rubber from a blue box.


I had a new Proline MC that I used off the shelf stuff from Autozone - rubber dissolved to the point of failure in about 5 months. Even if you can use anything just avoid the risk and order a couple of gallons of Castrol GTLMA online and keep it around the garage. No reason to risk failure on any of the parts!

[Apis Mellifera]

It is my understanding that the original hydraulic seals were made of a form of (natural?) rubber that would break down if exposed to anything other than Castrol GTLMA type fluid (DOT 4). Silicone (DOT 5) can also be used, but cannot be mixed with any other fluids.

However, it appears (from the experience of people on this forum) that the seals of current manufacture allow the use of other fluids without any ill effects.

That said, I stick with Castrol GTLMA because I can: it seems to be easy to get around here.

Corrections to my comments on fluids are welcomed.

That's basically it. Seals were at one time, when the trucks were new and the manuals written, natural rubber and thus would dissolve if the incorrect fluid was used. Natural rubber is now expensive as compared to synthetic and no longer used (for other reasons too). It doesn't matter what fluid you use. If you have a failure of a brake seal nowadays (assuming you're not still running 30 year old parts), no magic fluid would have prevented it.

[greenmeanie]

I had a new Proline MC that I used off the shelf stuff from Autozone - rubber dissolved to the point of failure in about 5 months. Even if you can use anything just avoid the risk and order a couple of gallons of Castrol GTLMA online and keep it around the garage. No reason to risk failure on any of the parts!

Apis nailed it. Its not the rubber compund reacting, its not the fluid. With the blue box its just really, really bad quality control.