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View Full Version : fuel tank/breather tube and pin holes



kwd509
11-20-2011, 04:40 PM
The fuel tank was without a cap for a number of years as I removed several gallons of water and diesel. Having cleaned the tank I not several pin holes and the breather tube pulls right of the tank. Oddly, the breather tube looks as if it was never fixed to the tank.... but that can't be right?????

Plan involves a using a tank lining kit from POR 15. and first welding the tube back in the tank. Any folks had experience with the tank lining kits. Do they work? and is the welding of the breather tube to the tank the proper action?

thanks.

Howsomever
11-20-2011, 05:27 PM
Many years ago I was replacing the leaf springs on my 60's series Rover......using an impact wrench and the next thing I smelled and saw was gas dripping. Anyway I was able to fix that by soldering it. Soon after I encountered more leaks with stress cracks in the sides. Seems that there were no internal baffles to help with the pressure of the fuel always pressing out. With the cost of cheap replacement tanks I would just replace it with a new one. Do you really want to play around with fuel leaks on a trip or outing?? That being said I have used the POR kit to redo my 1946 Ford 2N tractor gas tank which had pin hole leaks and it has work great for 15 years. Follow the directions to the letter. I steam cleaned the tank before starting the POR process.

Good Luck with whatever you decide.......................

Sputnicker
11-20-2011, 06:23 PM
I've done a few repairs on gas tanks over the years, but only when a replacement tank was either not available or prohibitively expensive. If you go ahead with the repair, I would suggest brazing, instead of welding. There is less distortion and that's how I believe the tubes were attached in the first place (based on some mods I did to a replacement tank). It can be tricky to weld something that was originally brazed. Finally, be safe about it. Make sure the tank is completely dry. I usually run a fan or compressed air through the tank, so vapor can't collect (and explode).

antichrist
11-20-2011, 08:16 PM
For pin holes and the like I've just soldered, including removing the bottom plate, repairing the tank, and reattaching the bottom plate.
I've also removed the military filler from a completely shot tank and converted a civvy tank to fit by removing the filler and soldering a patch on, cutting a hole for the military filler and soldering it in place.

cedryck
11-21-2011, 03:10 PM
for the time and money spent repairing something as important as a fuel cell, I would replace. When I did the resto on an exmod 88 the cells were bad. Really bad, leaky and unreliable. New cells from canada were better made, two pieces and seam welded, not folded and pinched like the old ones. Piece of mind, good luck with your choice.

antichrist
11-21-2011, 06:00 PM
I've never seen a fuel cell for a Land Rover, even aftermarket, only fuel tanks.

cedryck
11-21-2011, 07:41 PM
Sorry, for the mis spoke. I mean fuel tank, metal, this Canadian design takes two "tubs" and seam welds them together, much like a clam. Avoids the poor folds that promote leaking of old Rover fuel tanks, cheers.