and the fun continues

[rejeep]

driving around town home for lunch I took out the rover to put some miles on the new engine before it goes away for the winter...

driving down the road the GREEN light came on..
quickly pulled over, wires, engine, and dipstick were all "ok"

I haven’t had a chance to pull the sender yet and check for pressure..
but has anybody had this happen to them?

I’m thinking it’s more likely a wire ground or something..
any reason a new rebuilt motor would just loose pressure after only 15 miles.

[73series88]

i hate dummy lights
i ended getting rid of the stock series 3 oil gauge setup and throwing in a 16 dollar mechanical gauge. its worth the piece of mind and there were so many things in the stock electric setup that could go wrong.not to mention the fact that the land rover parts aer through the roof.
sorry again RN
aaron
its worth it just for piece of mind.

[rejeep]

well i do have a nice smiths dual gauge that i have not had the time to install..
I was planning on doing it this winter when I had a few moments..

I did grab a cheap gauge from downstairs that I will hook up in place of the sender to test it tonight..

just stinks becuase I finally had a day to drive around and put some miles on it.. I dailed in the motor at lunch and then this of all things..

[73series88]

sorry that does stink
aaron

[rejeep]

is the spin on adapter a different size then standard NPT thread?
mine seems to be:(

[SafeAirOne]

is the spin on adapter a different size then standard NPT thread?
mine seems to be:(

If it is the Rover 2.5-type spin-on adapter, it's likely metric M10x1

[rejeep]

that what I figured.. the stock sensor fits in, but the generic oil gauge I have does not..
have to hit the brass cabinet tomorrow and find an adapter..

I cranked the motor over with the coil wire pulled and the sensor out..

had a nice little puddle of oil in the driveway..

looks like I have an electrical issue or a bad sender... Go figure..

[SafeAirOne]

I have the opposite problem with my crappy sender. Occasionally it sticks in the "everything's fine--don't worry about it" position, so I don't get the green light before startup sometimes.

[east high]

I've heard there's a wrong way to install those spin on adapters. Installing it upside down will block the return passage, or something along those lines. I think the issue has been discussed on this board in the past. It might be worth investigating.

EDIT: Here's a discussion (http://www.roversnorth.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4741&highlight=spin+adapter) worth reading.

[rejeep]

yeah I installed it on the engine stand with the "TOP" in the "TOP" most position..
the adapter is on right.. but good thought..
I even checked to see if the filter had an issue..

I am going to the shop tomorrow to grab my old sender.. the one thats not reading right was a new unit..

this might prompt me to instal my gauge a bit sooner..

[rejeep]

Well they don't build them like they use to....
My 30 yr old sending unit fixed the problem, while my new one crapped out in less than 30 min of run time...

next question is.. Is there an adapter out there for the sending unit so I can tie in a mechanical gauge.. I spent some time in front of the brass cabinet today without any luck

[SafeAirOne]

next question is.. Is there an adapter out there for the sending unit so I can tie in a mechanical gauge..


Holden (http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=2&pgCode=070&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Gauges&agCode=0611&agName=Smiths+Classic+Gauge+Fittings) has everything you need to run both a mechanical oil pressure gauge and the idiot light simultaneously. First you'll have to confirm the thread pitch on the existing pressure switch.

[rejeep]

can anybody confirm for me what the stock oil pressure sender is?

[SafeAirOne]

can anybody confirm for me what the stock oil pressure sender is?


Presumably for a 2.25? My 2.5 is M10x1 but it's a different part # than the 2.25 switch, which looks like it has a different thread pitch.

It MIGHT be 3/8" BSF (you want to confirm this because I'm just going by the description of this 'T' piece adapter on the Holden site (http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?sg=2&pgCode=070&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Gauges&agCode=0611&agName=Smiths+Classic+Gauge+Fittings&pCode=070.027)).

[rejeep]

I think its 3/8 BSF as well..
I just ordered that adapter..
but also thought that the spin on adapter I have has 2 ports.. im wondering if they are both the same BSF pitch or one is different for a mechanical gauge??

well since were on the subject..
the Dual Smiths gauge I have also has this for the coolant temp..

http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/misc%20BB%20pics/IMG-20111122-00093.jpg
http://i534.photobucket.com/albums/ee343/rejeep/misc%20BB%20pics/IMG-20111122-00092.jpg


I cant for the life of me figure out if I need another adapter for this or there is a plugged water jacket somewhere that I must have missed..

any idea?

[jac04]

Nice fuzzy slippers.

Anyhow, the water temperature bulb mounts at the front of the head where the electrical temp sender is. The adapter between the head and sender is different for the electrical and mechanical gauges.
For the mechanical gauge, the correct part numbers should be:
218512 Union for thermometer bulb, Petrol models
243959 Joint washer, union to cylinder head, Petrol models

[SafeAirOne]

I think its 3/8 BSF as well..
I just ordered that adapter..

Be sure to order the oil pressure adapter noted on the bottom of that same page in order to connect a 1/8" NPT oil pressure tube to the 'T' piece.

Here's what I have for a [future] switch + gauge setup from Holden (M10x1):

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6386875983_72d0bc4511_z.jpg

[rejeep]

I always save hotel slippers for garage use...
When they get nasty the get the boot, pr slip...

[rejeep]

Have a picture... I'm not visualizing this...

And I'm guessing that union is nla...

[rejeep]

Ok maybe I do get this..
The adapter goes in place of my existing temp sender..
So if I run the mechanical I can't run the electric?

[Jim-ME]

The electric sender screws into the end that you can't see and the mechanical gauge screws into the hole you can see.
Jim

[rejeep]

:confused:

anybody have a pic?
the adapter i looked up was basically a spacer to upsize the hole..

[SafeAirOne]

The electric sender screws into the end that you can't see and the mechanical gauge screws into the hole you can see.
Jim

Jim, I think rejeep has moved on to trying to figure out out how to run a mechanical water temp gauge in the place of the electric water temp sender.

[rejeep]

Jim, I think rejeep has moved on to trying to figure out out how to run a mechanical water temp gauge in the place of the electric water temp sender.


well i would lke to run BOTH if possible...
I would hate to stare at a gauge that doesnt work at all..

[SafeAirOne]

well i would lke to run BOTH if possible...

2 temp gauges??

That's easy--Just plumb one of the temp sender housings that Holden sells (http://www.holden.co.uk/displayproducts.asp?sg=2&pgCode=070&sgName=Hardware&pgName=Gauges&agCode=0611&agName=Smiths+Classic+Gauge+Fittings)into your radiator hose for the electric sender and use the existing hole (and adapter) in the block for a mechanical one.

[Jim-ME]

Sorry I missed that part. I have seen a metal piece that you splice into the upper radiator hose that permits adding a sender but I don't remember where. That way you could run both.
Jim

[SafeAirOne]

.:D.

[rejeep]

i think the adapter is NLA.. go figure

[SafeAirOne]

i think the adapter is NLA.. go figure

Have you tried PA Blanchard?

[EDIT]: Good read on the subject here: http://www.s2cforum.com/archives/index.php?action=printpage;topic=9881.0

[rejeep]

i just shot in the dark with them..
it came up.. but unsure about it..
I just ordered a slew of parts from both/all sites to get this figured out..
ill either stockpile or return what I dont use.. I cant stand not having the right stuff when I need it..

[jac04]

Where did you find the 218512 union?