"Mid Gray" paint?

[CRiordan01]

Help!

I am new to Series ownership and recently purchased a 1974 Series III RHD SWB with pre-existing damage to the wings. I am going to have these fixed and I several questions about repairs which may be pretty basic. I am planning to have a family friend (who restores even older vehicles) straighten out the damaged parts and then repaint them, but I am a little worried about getting the paint matched correctly. I have no interest in repainting the entire vehicle as I believe the paint is original (color is mid-gray(?), she has had an easy life, so the paint is in great shape). Any recommendations on types of paint to use in order to most closely match the rest of the vehicle without redoing large portions? And what type of paint was originally used on these…was it a lacquer? I have been told that my best bet would be to use either a single stage acrylic or to go with clear coat/base coat. Any recommendations? Anything to avoid?


I did not see any old threads directly on point - hopefully I am not repeating a thread issue previously addressed...

[LaneRover]

I can't give you much info on the paint but make sure the person straightening panels knows how to work with Aluminum as aluminum work hardens with bending and pounding and needs t be re-annealed occasionally while the work is going on.

I may be stating the obvious for your friend but it isn't a bad thing to ask.

[I Leak Oil]

Single stage, lots of good choices out there. Series didn't have clear\base. Either way it will be tought to match the new paint with the old paint and it's patina. Time and weathering will help you out there.

I love the factory gray....:thumb-up:

[bkreutz]

Most good painters can blend new paint into looking like old paint. I can't do it, but then again I'm not a painter:D. Most of the painters I know say that the paint code is only a rough guideline of where to start and unless you're painting the entire vehicle at one time paint will almost never match without blending.

[73series88]

theres a paint shop here in town that said for around 30 dollars. he could scan part of my truck and put that into a couple of rattle cans. i have a new tub, deluxe bonnet and headlight surrounds i want to get close to the old green.
aaron

[Billy5]

Blending is going to be hard with this. Depending on the condition of surrounding paint. What usually happens is they will allow some "overspray" onto adjacent panels. But, most of the time there is clear involved. Sometimes you can leave just a little color in the paint gun, then fill with the clear for the blend. You can also change the " factory" color by reducing it more etc..

The PO of my series had it scanned as mentioned. I have two rattle cans and a quart of the color thats on there. He also had the formula made ( for which i also have the tints etc..amounts for pastel green and limestone.). I would imagine that of you have it scanned, they can also make a few quarts.

I would go with plain single stage ppg. Cost effective and just as good as whats most likely on there. Polyurethanes are nasty items, and could lift the existing paint right off with the blend. What has been done too is a little flattening agent in the paint, not alot but just enough. Use some test panels when you get the paint. when you get the formula down, apply it to the truck. If worse comes to worse, these things arent a bus so a repaint would take a day or less.

[CRiordan01]

Thanks to everyone who has provided feedback - I hope to resolve this by the end of the year and will let y'all know how things pan out.