24v to 12v conversion

[deezgunz]

I've spent a few months chasing down an ignition/carb problem and concluded its an ignition problem. Its a 24v FFR so I've decided to rewire it with a GM spec 12v/12 circuit painless harness, delco starter, and a single wire alternator, dizzy with a pertronix as well as the other bits and pieces. The first order of business will be removing all the FFR bits so if anyone has any interest in this stuff let me know. All comments appreciated! Thanks!

[deezgunz]

FFR component removal

first things first. i removed the last bits of the radio system.

cab with the FFR components

cab with FFR components removed. i'm relocating the battery and installing a lockbox

FFR components. the cable is the power feed from the generator to the voltage regulator for the radio.

power output on the generator

[deezgunz]

Today I removed the generator, dizzy, wires, coil, converter, and air filter/oil bath. This opened up the engine compartment tremendously. Once I get the civvy battery bracket/oil bath/air filter I will probably have to do some head scratching and fabrication to fit it to the frame.

[disco2hse]

Great to see you making some progress. Aren't those high amp cables something else!

That is one thing that makes the 24V difficult to handle, up to 120A fries pretty much all third party electrical components these days, and the split charge diodes can cause some pretty amazing spikes

[LR Max]

Just had a thought: Save that little box that is behind the passenger seat! Turn it into a water proof, permenantly mounted first aid kit.

That would be slick!

[deezgunz]

gauges

I removed the instrument panel. I need to replace the 24v gauges with 12v's so I cracked open the panel. I was under the impression that the h2o, oil, fuel were in one sealed unit. I was mistaken. I learned the anatomy of the cluster is 3 individual gauges. My experience with the civvy series 3 is limited and I thought the gauges were the 3 round independent gauges that are mounted on the center dash. A more knowledgable fellow pointed out these were an after market add-on. I did a quick search for the rubber gaskets as mine need replacing but did not come up with anything. If someone has access to these please let me know. I take photos of all the connections before I remove them. I also label the cluster of wires with the appropriate system. Below are pics of the gauges and the dash. So far I'm not intimidated by the process.

[disco2hse]

You'd be unlikely to find a seal for it. They are normally sold as a complete unit. Instead, what about a neoprene o-ring of the appropriate diameter? Or just fill it with silicon?

Personally, I'd have just replaced it with a 12V gauge set from a wreck.

That last photos looks strangely familiar to me

[Jim-ME]

I have a set of rubber O rings which I bought to go between the instrument and the dash. They might work for your application. PM me if you are interested.
Jim

[jac04]

You'd be unlikely to find a seal for it.

Parts are readily available from Nisonger Instruments:

http://www.nisonger.com/smiths-parts.htm

[disco2hse]

Parts are readily available from Nisonger Instruments:
http://www.nisonger.com/smiths-parts.htm

Well, bugger me. That's service fer ya

[deezgunz]

starter motor

I removed the left front wing to include the inner portion to gain access to the starter motor. When I first bought the rover I removed the wings and reinstalled them with new hardware greased with Lucas red and tacky. As most of you probably know removing old hardware is difficult and in my case involved cutting the bolts with a dremel. The new greased hardware makes removing the wing a 10 min. job. I also had to remove the bolts from the exhaust to make room for the massive 24v starter to be removed.

I bought a single wire install starter from British starters.

[SeriesShorty]

Looking good! You are moving way faster than I did with my truck. hehe

[JimCT]

Bendix

the bendix on both of those starters look pretty different, unless it i just the angle of the photo

[disco2hse]

Hmm, the new one looks like the 24V one on my V8.

The difference appears to be the spring on the old one. Not sure if that will cause problems.

[scatterling]

The starter is the same one I used on my 109. It'll work fine.