Propeller shaft

[Max(SD)]

Working on pulling the gearbox/transfer box out to rebuild. Had tremendous amount of difficulty taking out / disconnecting both front and rear prop shafts.

The bolts where facing the direction of the prop shaft, it proved to be difficult to remove as they were pretty stripped and made a difficult job in pulling out. Where they facing the correct direction? Or should the bolts be facing the differential?

While I have the prop shaft out, I was thinking of dismantling and sending some parts out for powder coating. How difficult is the removal of the universal joint? Is this recommended, how can I tell if this needs replacing. I figure if it does, then dissemble and powder coat, if not, then maybe just clean and paint. Any thoughts?

1959 SII 88"

[SafeAirOne]

On both ends of both of my propshafts, the bolts heads are all on the shaft side and the nuts are all on the transfer case or differential side. Not saying this is right, but that's the way mine are. As a point, you can't fit the bolts through the other direction on the diffs, I don't think.

[jac04]

The nuts are on the differential side. I think the bolt is too long to be inserted from the differential side. The hardware is a bit of a PITA to get to with normal tools. You need to rotate the drive shaft to get to the bolts one at a time. I believe that there is a special socket made for this application as well.

The u-joints can be pressed out fairly easily with a hydraulic press or large bench vice. The R&R is covered in the green service manual. Make sure to mark all the components of the propshaft so they go back together the same way. This will maintain balance. If you have things powdercoated, make sure that they don't coat everything. The bores for the u-joint caps need to be left bare and I wouldn't have them coat the mating surfaces of the flanges.

Here is a rebuild of a rear propshaft:
Before:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1337.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1335.jpg

During:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1338.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1340.jpg

After:
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1354.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1356.jpg
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1391.jpg

[Max(SD)]

Thanks, that explains why it was such a PITA to take my prop shaft out, as the bolts where pointing in the wrong direction.

Really nice rebuild, did you paint or powder coat?

[SafeAirOne]

Did you end up having to hi-lift the chassis to get the shafts off?

[Max(SD)]

I didn't lift up the Landy to get them off, just busted a couple of knuckles in the process. but I figure that is par for the course.

[jac04]

Really nice rebuild, did you paint or powder coat?
Thanks. I used RustOleum semi-gloss spray paint.

[deezgunz]

I replaced my rear prop hardware with the same stuff I use on my D1 (nyloc's, washers, etc.). There is also a special socket tool to go with the hardware. I installed the bolts with the nut side out and the socket makes installation/removal much easier. Lifting up the rear axel an inch or two provides the necessary clearance for simple installation/removal. As jac04 pointed out its in the green bible.

[scatterling]

http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-17519-prop-shaft-socket-special-tool.aspx

Get this tool. It makes removal and installation of propshafts painless. By far the best 'use once in a blue moon but so glad you have it when you need it' tools I have ever bought.

[Jeff Aronson]

I'm with Scatterling. That propshaft extension really made life easier when I had to remove my II-A's propshaft on both the differential and transfer case ends. I used that tool and an open end wrench. I also chose to order new nyloc nuts so they would not loosen over time.

BTW, if you still have the original bolts they were actually Whitworth sizes, which make them a little different than the US standard sizes. Here's a conversion chart (http://mcastmt.tripod.com/id19.html) that might help you, too.

Jeff

[cedryck]

I agree, nyloc nuts do prevent loosening, and I feel easier to remove as well. Having the transmission in neutral, and red nob in N as well allows the shaft to rotate while you are on you back and rubbing grime out of your eyes. Regular spanners worked well for me,. :thumb-up:

[1971Series88]

SPANNERS!....showing your heritage there :)

[Les Parker]

Jeff,

Glad you concur with my findings, the propshaft tool is a great addition to the tool box, a sort of insurance, once you've got it you'll hardly ever have to use it !
Saves spinning the drive shaft and all that other contortioning, plus less of the debris in the ears and eyes !

:thumb-up:

[Max(SD)]

Thanks guys will have to buy that tool when I go to put them back on.

Took the universal joint apart, and will be ordering some new ones, sending big batch of parts to powder coater.

Quick question;

How do I get the dust cap off the prop shaft? Also the cork seal inside the dust cap disintegrated in the process, can I purchase a replacement cork seal?

[Max(SD)]

Also came up with this;

Looks like the tip of the rear drive output shaft broke right off.

[SafeAirOne]

How do I get the dust cap off the prop shaft?


It should uscrew. Note the unpainted threaded portion where the cap screws on:

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j126/jac04/000_1354.jpg

[Max(SD)]

I got that part, I have unscrewed it from the splined sleeve and have separated the prop shaft, I just can not get the dust cover off the splined shaft part of the prop shaft.

[masonater]

Also the cork seal inside the dust cap disintegrated in the process, can I purchase a replacement cork seal?

Had to do some detective work to finally get the correct part last year but here is what works (from a post i made a while back) They are Spicer part #'s
For some reason I could not find any documentation in any books i have about this cork washer and dust cap. I checked with a big rig drive shaft shop and they pulled out these parts to make what i needed.

So what you need is the cork split washer and retainer ring from the Spicer D3A and the cap from the D3E and you are good to go.

[slorocco]

BTW, if you still have the original bolts they were actually Whitworth sizes, which make them a little different than the US standard sizes. Here's a conversion chart (http://mcastmt.tripod.com/id19.html) that might help you, too.

Jeff

That conversion chart is a hosed up. I know the Whitworth stuff is a little wierd but I still don't think the 5/16" whitworth would have a jaw gap of .445" and the 1/4" whitworth a jaw gap of .525"

There's more that's just one example.