Rover Frame Condition Opinion

[achtung]

I am thinking about going to look at Series Rover that starts and runs but needs frame and bulkhead work. These are the only shots that I got of the frame and I was wondering given what you all know about frame rot if the rear spring shackle mounts are this far gone what is the chance that the rest of the frame is salvagable. I know I'm soliciting speculation but what do you think I can expect to see?

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YKAFKIoWAXM/TxyCWxLDQbI/AAAAAAAAAhg/nz7fjzA53UM/s642/RoverFrame.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-axcGB7DiU3w/TxyD0Zh_EzI/AAAAAAAAAh4/Qm8MPNr1HBw/s642/RoverFrame2.jpg

[I Leak Oil]

Rear cross members are available with the extensions but in all reality if they are that bad the chances are the rest of the frame is pretty bad also.

[SafeAirOne]

The photos you show will likely be typical of the rest of the chassis, I'm afraid.

[Partsman]

Well since we're from the same neck of the woods, I'll comment, that frame has probably seen many seasons of salt, so you could expect quite a bit more of what you see in those pics. That doesn't necessarily mean that you can't salvage what's left of the frame, but you should expect a lot of work ahead of you.

[achtung]

That is what I suspected. It tough to find a Rover project that would be a cost effective endeavor. Most of the time if you factor in what a frame and bulkhead costs plus the cost of the project you should have just bought a decent truck and been done with it. The hunt continues. If anyone has any leads on a decent Series project shoot me an email.

[Partsman]

It all depends on what your budget is...I bought mine from down south in Georgia, paid only 4k for it and $600 for shipping back here to Massachusetts. It still has the original chassis in great shape (no rust) and it runs good. You could try looking at http://www.landroverranch.com/ they're located in New Mexico, What you buy from them is likely to be in a low rust condition, then you'd mostly be dealing with mechanics. IE: engine, tranny, brakes etc. It would certainly be a cheaper project than you're likely to find up here in New England.

[achtung]

It all depends on what your budget is...I bought mine from down south in Georgia, paid only 4k for it and $600 for shipping back here to Massachusetts. It still has the original chassis in great shape (no rust) and it runs good. You could try looking at http://www.landroverranch.com/ they're located in New Mexico, What you buy from them is likely to be in a low rust condition, then you'd mostly be dealing with mechanics. IE: engine, tranny, brakes etc. It would certainly be a cheaper project than you're likely to find up here in New England.


Good tip. Thanks, I will do that.

[o2batsea]

I would buy that thing for parts. Maybe the steel bits are no good, but there's plenty more valuable stuff there.

[cedryck]

it's easy, replace that rusted chassis, if you have that much rust in that spot then the rest will be in the same shape,

[Terrys]

I have replaced 4 rear crossmembers with the ones with rear spring hangers and extensions. In each case, when cutting the old frame off, at the requisite spot, the frame was structurally sound if not near original. Look the rest of it over carefully, especially the front frame horns, bulkhead outriggers, and transmission crossmember. If that all appears sound, give the frame a good hammer check from about 14" forward of the rear crossmember, you may find it is sound.
My walk-away-criteria is bulkhead condition, more so than frame condition.

[achtung]

Interesting. I figured the bulkhead work would be easier than frame work. What is your reasoning for this?

I had also considered buying this truck for parts but I have limited space and don't want to fill it up with junk.


I have replaced 4 rear crossmembers with the ones with rear spring hangers and extensions. In each case, when cutting the old frame off, at the requisite spot, the frame was structurally sound if not near original. Look the rest of it over carefully, especially the front frame horns, bulkhead outriggers, and transmission crossmember. If that all appears sound, give the frame a good hammer check from about 14" forward of the rear crossmember, you may find it is sound.
My walk-away-criteria is bulkhead condition, more so than frame condition.

[Terrys]

Interesting. I figured the bulkhead work would be easier than frame work. What is your reasoning for this? Simple, There is not much easy about bulkhead repair. A rear crossmember is a one day job.

[Billy5]

From the pictures, I would have to agree with what is being offered here. Here is my 2c. In the picture it looks like remnants of duct tape ( fabric looking item by the spring perch). This makes me wonder about other repairs that may not so readily apparent. I am new to the Rover club as well. When I went looking for mine the criteria was the following: Clean as possible with little to no modifications. I can deal with replacing and repairing stock/original items, but once someone goes adding etc..it can be a pain chasing things when failures pop up. As far as cost goes. First question would be how handy are you, what tools to you have or at least available to you. This is a big factor in my opinion. I paid 10k for mine. Was it overpriced? Not sure, considering zero rust issues anywhere, 99% stock/ original as far as drivetrain goes, and was well taken care of and not roaded alot ( read beaten ). I bought it, did some electrical repairs ( this forum helped greatly with that) and been driving it everyday since. So lets say I found one for less, say 4k. Frame work can be at least 1k depending unless you need new then its 2500. Up to 6k. How is the wiring? Just the headache alone is expensive find the shorts or replacing old wiring. Add in 500 for that. How are the tires? If shot and depending on what you want add at least 150 each. Now we are at 7k. See where this is going? Pick what you can live with or a priority. For me cosmetics didnt matter as I am a painter by trade. I could do frame work to, but I dont have a welder etc. Thats my advice anyway from a newbie..:)

[siii8873]

I sent you a PM

[Bostonian1976]

How much do you want to spend? I could be convinced to sell mine

[achtung]

So if I go searching for a used frame for an 88, do you know what years are interchangable?

[73series88]

its hard to say on frames. they can look good from the out side but when your a couple miles in the woods and it decides to crack.
a couple of ratchet straps get you limping home. and you find yourself welding new frame horns. bet you cant guess how i know. dont bother with a used frame for a chassis swap. invest in a new one then you never have to worry about it again. my frame looked great. rusted from the inside out.
hopefully i wil be doing this myself this year.
aaron

[achtung]

Thanks for the advice, I think I will take it.


its hard to say on frames. they can look good from the out side but when your a couple miles in the woods and it decides to crack.
a couple of ratchet straps get you limping home. and you find yourself welding new frame horns. bet you cant guess how i know. dont bother with a used frame for a chassis swap. invest in a new one then you never have to worry about it again. my frame looked great. rusted from the inside out.
hopefully i wil be doing this myself this year.
aaron

[mongoswede]

I picked up a used chassis for my rover project and put about $500 worth of a friend welding into it. I also put about a million of my own hours into cleaning and sanding and painting it. If I could rewind time I'd go smack myself and tell me to buy a new galvanized chassis. The used frame I have will work for a while but from a selling stand point nothing inspires confidence to a proposed buyer like a nice new galvanized frame...sort of like having a good foundation under an old house.

[giftshopduane]

Did you pick it up? I was thinking about that one two, seems like a good deal. let me know what you do, don't want to step on our toes.

[achtung]

Did you pick it up? I was thinking about that one two, seems like a good deal. let me know what you do, don't want to step on our toes.

That is very considerate of you but not necessary. After all, all is fair in love, war and accumulation of junk! I, however, did not buy it. I bought another one that also needs a frame, but was a little more local to me. If you want I'll forward you the email that was sent to me with additional pictures of the truck. It did sound like a good deal but it was 2 hours away. If it is still available I would suspect that you could get a very good deal on it at this point, as I was talking to the owner over a month ago and he was motivated to move it along.

[giftshopduane]

Went and looked at it today... the frame is actually in good shape. The rear crossmember is gone as the pictures show. Its pretty original. All the weatherstripping is shot lots of leaks as the snow on it was melting, both foot boxes were rotted, under the drivers seat rotted, window frames, door posts and lower door frames rotted. Big dent on L quarter panel, filled with bondo, then picked off, the aluminum was corroded there. Big crease on R front fender, dents and dings on left. Lots of oil leaks (typical) the seat frames in front were buggered, top of dash had a rust hole. Breakfast was clean.

New brake lines, hoses and wheel cylinders, new gas tank. 3 layers of paint, 3 different colors, most of a hoop set comes with the truck. He said the clutch started acting up lately. One thing though, stone cold the thing fired right up and ran really well.

Its not a total loss, lots of work from my perspective, I could replace the rear crossmember and certainly drive it and repair it over time. Its a tough call. He's asking $2k for it and is pretty tight about coming down I think its maybe $1200 (?) but I'm new to pricing a series, I'm thinking about it unless others have better advice. Certainly worth saving.

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww24/giftshopduane/20120225_141821.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww24/giftshopduane/20120225_141828.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww24/giftshopduane/20120225_141838.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww24/giftshopduane/20120225_141902.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww24/giftshopduane/20120225_141941.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww24/giftshopduane/20120225_142132.jpg

http://i702.photobucket.com/albums/ww24/giftshopduane/20120225_142048.jpg

[73series88]

that seems pretty rough for 2k
thats alot of rot
especially something you want to drive while your fixing it.
just my 2 cents
aaron

[1971Series88]

Wow, that is some serious cancer...I guess that you guys up NE are used to it but it seems like a lot. If that is what is evident you have to wonder about what you can't see!

I had been looking for a 109/110 for years, came across a few lke that, a few in pieces needing to be put back together and finally came across my 88 I just got. With no cancer to speak of, picked up for a steal!! They are still out there if you are patient and certainly there if you pay more moollah for it.

I would advise you to walk, or run from that one, unless you are wiling to drop at least $5-7K to get it in the shape you would want it in....not showable, but "nice" to look at!

[jumpmaster54]

I waited for a while and bought my 1967 109 5 door for $8000 with NO RUST. I waited because a frame alone is $3000 and thats not including all the stuff that will be broken when you do a frame swap or rusted or unuseable once you get under the bonnet so to speak. In the long run, spend a little more $ and get a lot less headaches.

Just my 1 shilling.

Stan