Stud question

[Max(SD)]

In the process of gearbox rebuild. Just got the transfer case off the car, and will work on its rebuild and then get the rest of the gearbox out.

When performing a rebuild, do you just clean all the stud bolts or do your replace with new?

I have found on some sites the larger Stud bolts but have been unable to find the smaller ones that fit the sump. I was missing a couple. Any suggestions?

Also do you replace all the bolts or just clean the existing ones?

Are all the bolts nylock? I could not tell as there are covered with so much gunk.

Thanks.

[SafeAirOne]

I just clean the stuff and re-use them, though technically you shouldn't re-use self locking nuts (none of them are nylocs--they're all a crimped or deformed-type of self-locking nuts, IIRC).

Many of the bits on the transmission and transfer case are Witworth, including the transmission-to-transfer case fasteners (that's why your socket wasn't a perfect fit on those nuts surrounding the mainshaft), so you are not going to find the studs locally, unless you live in Westford, Vermont, and probably a few other places in the country. Having said that, there's probably NOTHING in existence that's not available in San Diego or Orange County or LA County...).

Not sure about the thread pitch on the studs and nuts on the Transfer case sump cover--mine are always loosening, but they're all still there.

[SalemRover]

I do the same thing as Mark said, clean and re-use. A trick for the transfer case sump bolts is to generously cost them in a gasket maker compound before putting the gasket back on to help prevent leaks. Having spent some time in the LA County area, I can confirm that every kind of nut exists in that town.

-Jason

[amcordo]

I saw "Stud Question" and assumed it was directed towards me.

[mearstrae]

I always re-use if possible, cleaning the studs (and bolts) and also tapping all of the holes and nuts to be sure they're clean. Nylok type nuts work well in most places, high heat is the enemy of plastic lined nuts and they are one use and toss out items (as are deforming lock nuts). There are nylok type studs available through industrial suppliers in standard thread (also ones with locking material sprayed on, like LokTite) and the local hardware store will have regular studs (always get the hardened ones). I've always wondered why Brit cars have a lack of lock washers (split washers to Brits) where they seem needed. And finally there are nut "Grades" that match the stud and bolt "Grades", that is such as a "Grade 5" hex bolts with three lines on them and nuts that have three dots on them (studs are maked the same way). No use using a "Grade 5" bolt with a "Grade 2" nut or the other way round.

'95 R.R. Classic LWB
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[crankin]

Fastenal is selling Nord-Lock washer assemblies now (which is vibration-resistant lock washers).

[TedW]

I saw "Stud Question" and assumed it was directed towards me.

Rim shot!