brake conversion

[siii8873]

my master cylinder on my 71 exmod 109 is leaking. It's a single line system that shares fluids w/ clutch. Instead of just replacing the master my thought is to convert it to a dual power system.
I think what I will need is a dual 109 master, brake booster and a few lines to split the system ( I have a tower / pedal) Any experience on this with and thoughts / possible pitfalls or things to be aware of?
Bob

Oh yea a three way and brake line splice also

[albersj51]

I'm doing the same thing with my 67. Im ising the MC off of a 1985 ford ltd (slight mod to the push rod), new cu-ni lines (braided stainless flex hoses) and such. Im running the rear port back to the 3-way on the axle and the fronts to 5-way...no shuttle valve.

[o2batsea]

Early Defender/S3 tower, booster and MC is a direct fit.

[siii8873]

thought of a few items; need to open up the bulkhead some to fit dual brake tower and see where to pull a vacuum from for the booster.

[albersj51]

Look up a blog on goog called "my aluminum friend". He has a pictoral write up on the conversion.

[I Leak Oil]

Pretty straight forward. As mentioned already you may need to trip the opening in the bulkhead for new pedal. Since it's a 71' it may be late enough to have the correct size opening from the factory.

I assume you have the later fenders so it should be contoured for the power system already. Check you're hood clearance before just slamming it shut. I think on some hoods the frame may interfere with the booster a little bit.

While you are there, I'd recommend replacing the clutch MC with the later style also. Not necessary but it's cleaner and easy while everything is apart anyway.

[yorker]

my master cylinder on my 71 exmod 109 is leaking. It's a single line system that shares fluids w/ clutch. Instead of just replacing the master my thought is to convert it to a dual power system.
I think what I will need is a dual 109 master, brake booster and a few lines to split the system ( I have a tower / pedal) Any experience on this with and thoughts / possible pitfalls or things to be aware of?
Bob

Oh yea a three way and brake line splice also

Drop John Dorr a line, I think you have his email? He found a cheaper/better source for boosters. The Ford MC is a nice solution. Cupro-nickel brake line can be found at Napa or online (someone on Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006J7IAXM/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=the76thnysvol) had some good deals on it recently).

[siii8873]

I thought that there is an issue with the type of flares/fittings on british stuff which makes it difficult to make your own lines.
My fender is the newer type for dual brakes so no issue there.
I kind of like the remote reservoir for the clutch. On my SIII it's a PITA even to just check level.; Thinking of keeping that and just blank off the port to the brakes.
Plan to do some prep work / further inspection in the light of the garage this weekend.

[siii8873]

is there a flare with standard equipment that can be used with British fittings? I would prefer to make my own lines but thought you needed a special (expensive) flaring tool for them.

[TeriAnn]

is there a flare with standard equipment that can be used with British fittings? I would prefer to make my own lines but thought you needed a special (expensive) flaring tool for them.


American brake fittings and British brake fittings are different and incompatible. They will interconnect but are not safe to use. The British male fitting has a long snout ahead of the threads. The American one does not.

When you screw an American male fitting into a British female fitting, the flare will not seat.

When you screw a British male fitting into an American female fitting, the flare will seat with only one or two threads holding the parts together.

Also be aware that Land Rover started converting to metric in 1981 so bake parts intended for newer Land Rovers and some aftermarket parts may require metric fittings.

Last I checked, Rovers North carries the British fittings. So you can buy premade lengths of tubing from your local auto parts store, cut one flare off, remove the US fittings, add the UK fittings, bend the tubing, cut to length and make a new flare at the end you cut.

Dual master cylinders designed for the 88 will not work properly on a 109 brake system. The 109's front brakes have two cylinders per side while the 88's has only one. The 88 master cylinder will not push enough fluid to properly work the 109's brakes. Use an 88 master cylinder on a 109 and you will need to pump the brake a couple times to get any brake pedal. :eek:

[siii8873]

TA,
thanks, I understand the fittings, my real question is what flare to put on the tubing to make it work with the british fittings.
I know where to get tubing and fittings, just want to do the correct flare (bubble?)

[masonater]

There were a few lines on my 109 2a that had bubble flares such as the short one between the top and bottom wheel cylinders on each of the fronts and others i forgot. Ive heard you can use a regular double flaring tool to make a bubble flare by using the back side of the flaring bar and just doing the first step of a double flare...however i could not get one to look like a safe bubble flare. I bought a bubble flaring kit off Amazon for 15 or 20 bucks and it worked great. I practiced a lot before i made the lines. In the end, they dont leak and came out really nice.

[SafeAirOne]

Federal Hill (http://store.fedhillusa.com/flaringtools.aspx) has all the right fittings and will rent you the proper flaring tool and dies to make the correct flares.

They also have good info on the different types of flares (http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common%20flares6.pdf). Note the difference between the old style bubble flare and the DIN/ISO bubble flare in the link.

[yorker]

TA,
thanks, I understand the fittings, my real question is what flare to put on the tubing to make it work with the british fittings.
I know where to get tubing and fittings, just want to do the correct flare (bubble?)


With a 1/2way decent tool the flares are a cinch.:thumb-up: The fittings are easy to source and if you make up your own lines you can adapt to whatever master cylinder you may opt to use.

[Les Parker]

Bob,

Hope you are now set with the "bits and bobs" to make this all work.
Can you post some pix. of your progress, so others can be enlightened?

All the best.

:thumb-up: