Adjusting Steering Backlash

[zayante]

Does anyone know what the normal steering backlash/free play should be? I was adjusting my steering box per the Haynes manual (adjusting screw hand-tight), and there still seems to be some free play. I realize it isn't exactly rack and pinion, but I'm wondering what the indications of wear or the need to rebuild are. Thanks,

Chris

[Momo]

How are your tie rod ends? Get someone to snap the wheel back and forth smoothly while you look at the rods. If they're clunking and sloppy, time for new ones.

[J!m]

Also, if the box is seerly worn, adjustment is not enough. It may be time for a rebuilt unit...

[zayante]

I found one bad tie rod end and four that looked to be orininal (circa 1965), so I replaced them all. I don't have another LR handy to compare my steering play to, so I'm not sure what "normal" is. What are the "wear items" in the steering box?

[zayante]

I was also wondering how tight the adjuster can be set without making it too tight or doing some damage.

The Haynes manual talks about tightening the screw until hand tight. The Series III manual I have is not specific. A page at the Internet Land Rover Club advises using an 11 mm wrench and says: "Then, check for play again and repeat the procedure until all play is eliminated. When all play is gone, you have tightened the adjusting nut too much and then go back a bit, otherwise your steering box may lock up in the first tight curve you encounter."

[J!m]

The best way to do it is on the bench.

What happens is the gears wear un-evenly in the box, most noticeably in the 'straight forward' position, as this is where they spend most of their time.

It is similar on old American cars (Chrysler products specifically) in that adjusting the nut so there is zero lash at center makes it abnormally tight at the locks (where the box rarely is used). You have to balance the lash on center with the over-tightness at the edges. And yes, it CAN lock up on the first tight corner if over-tightened.

Most likely, the box was never adjusted, and this makes the problem worse, as the wear is accelerated with improperly adjusted gears. Also, these steering boxes were often allowed to run dry for years on end. Another wear accelerator.

If you can get a rebuilt unit any longer, this is the way to go, but certainly not the "cheap" solution. I suggest pulling it out and bench adjusting it while you save up for a replacement. You should be able to get another year or two out of it as-is...

[zayante]

Thanks, Jim. I guess I will have to look for all the stuff to convert over to a Series III steering column/turn signal/steering wheel, as I don't think rebuilt or replacement Series II/early IIA steering boxes are available.

Plan B would be to go to a Saginaw power steering box, but I would need to find someone in Northern California who could fabricate the steering column joints and pitman arm. I've read TeriAnn's pages on this, and it looks like a worthwhile improvement.

[KevinNY]

You can use a D90 column.

[jp-]

Steering boxes should not be that hard to come by.

I got a brand new NLA Series II box from RDS for my 88". This let me fit a Banjo wheel.

Finding a RHD column could be a little more difficult in the States.

[a109]

Don't forget that the steering relay can give symptoms of a worn steering box.,
Generally the relay is more prone to wear than the box.
Also a very good idea to tighten the clamp bolts of the relay steering arms. A little loosenss here translates to a lot of movement at the steering wheel.

John