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bmohan55
03-13-2012, 01:09 PM
Truck sat for 22 month while engine was being rebuilt, it fires up but I haven't really ran it much because of a cracked manifold. Replaced that last night but too dark to drive it home 8 miles as I still need to connect headlights. Should I go ahead and drain the gas (3/4 tank) or is it ok?

Soon to be back in the slow lane!!!!!

Thanks

jac04
03-13-2012, 01:56 PM
Did you put any stabilizer in the gas 22 months ago? Has the vehicle been stored indoors? If so, it might be OK. You can also try the 'ole smell test. If it still smells like fresh gas, it's usually OK. I'm not sure if this sniff test method works on the newer ethanol blend fuels. With the newer fuels it is probably best to just drain it and use fresh gas.

'Old' gas seemed to do much better in storage. I recently drained a tank that was filled almost 15 years ago and had a double dose of fuel stabilizer in it. No signs of varnish, gumming, or any other problems.

yorker
03-13-2012, 02:05 PM
Yeah you'll probably be ok if it still smells like gas. I remember on one of the forums there was a fellow who accidently ran his LR on 100% kerosene or TVO, it ran, not well but it ran...

siii8873
03-13-2012, 04:33 PM
kerosene? was it a diesel that would likely work just a little less power.

yorker
03-13-2012, 04:54 PM
kerosene? was it a diesel that would likely work just a little less power.

Nope it was a 2.25p, I think 7:1. It sort of reminds me of the old tractors that started on gasoline then switched to kero.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tractor_vaporising_oil

mongoswede
03-13-2012, 04:56 PM
drive it to a half tank and fill it up..then run the tank out...should be ok. land rover engines are about bottom of the performance heap and low compression so they dont complain much on ****ty fuel. it will likely run better on fresher fuel but should be good on the old stuff...unless it has a lot of water in it or 10 percent ethanol...which likely seperated to the bottom of the tank by now.

bmohan55
03-14-2012, 07:11 AM
Made it home just fine, I forgot how "different" driving the Series is!

Now to figure out why my oil pressure gauge quit working.

TedW
03-14-2012, 08:28 AM
Made it home just fine, I forgot how "different" driving the Series is!

Now to figure out why my oil pressure gauge quit working.

Probably the sender- but check your ground first.

bmohan55
03-14-2012, 10:24 AM
My oil pressure warning light works but not the gauge. Looking at the wiring diagram it appears that they are on the same circut. I know nothing about electrics but it would seem to me that if one is "getting information" the other one would also? I'll delve into it when I get home tonight.

TedW
03-14-2012, 11:31 AM
The gauge has its own sender - they tend to crap put after 40 years or so.

bmohan55
03-14-2012, 12:42 PM
Looked at it when I got home at lunch, dip stick reads right below the low fill level. I took the valve cover off and started it and saw good oil flow comming from three spots on the valve train (is that correct?).

I disconneced the sender on top of the oil filter and it disabled the oil pressure light (it flickers on at start up).

Where is the sender for the gauge, I checked the Green Bible and it seemed to only discuss the oil pressure warning switch.

TedW
03-14-2012, 03:35 PM
Where is the sender for the gauge, I checked the Green Bible and it seemed to only discuss the oil pressure warning switch.


You have a S3, right?

IIRC it's on a brass stem that comes off of the oil filter housing. At least it was on my 1970 IIA. It's round, about 2" across by 3/4" thick, with a wire plugged into the top.

I took it off years ago and put in a mechanical gauge (and a RM spin-on adaptor).

I suspect that someone here will post a photo...

bmohan55
03-14-2012, 04:23 PM
thanks, I'll check it tonight