Leaky Valve Cover

[Myron]

I would appreciate any input from anyone who has done this job lately or has insight from long years of experience.

I gave my 64 IIA 88 its spring cleanup and oil change yesterday and made a serious attempt at identifying an annoying oil leak that it developed this past winter. After cleaning the engine and engine bay with foamy engine bright and driving it to work this morning, I believe I can say the leak is coming from the valve cover. The gasket was replaced last summer when I had the rear main seal repaired, so it is fairly new. I checked the cover bolts and they are tight.

Is it possible that the cover bolts are over-torqued, distorting the cover?

Now that the gasket is oily can I apply some kind of sealant to it, or must I start over with a fresh one?

If I start over with a new gasket, should I use sealant on it?

Thanks,

Myron

[TedW]

Myron:

I solved my leaking valve cover gasket problem by installing one of these nifty silicone gaskets:

http://www.gasketinnovations.flyingcart.com/

You install the gasket to the valve cover using red permatex - it stays on the cover and seals up nice and tight - no leaks.

Just a solution that works for me.

Ted

[SafeAirOne]

Is it possible that the cover bolts are over-torqued, distorting the cover?

That can happen, yes.



Now that the gasket is oily can I apply some kind of sealant to it, or must I start over with a fresh one?

Get a new gasket.


If I start over with a new gasket, should I use sealant on it?


Use sealant between the cork gasket and the valve cover only--leave the other side of the cork sealant-free.

You might try a silicon gasket. I don't know if our hosts sell them or not, but they are available for the 2.25.

[EDIT:] Looks like Ted beat me to it...

[Howsomever]

Hello Myron,

I fought the leaky valve cover gasket for years on my 63' 88. The cork gasket shrinks with time and heat from the engine even though it is usually stuck to the valve cover. After 15 years of fiddling with this issue I tried something different. I made my own gasket from a red rubber gasket material about 1/8" thick and using a gasket adhesive stuck this to the bottom of the valve cover. Then I only tighten the three top nuts enough to get a good seal. With time the three top nut rubbers collapse so you will need to slightly tighten with time. This has worked the best for me.

[Myron]

Wow, thanks you guys. I really appreciate the speedy relies with great advice. I think I'll try one of the silicone gaskets and post back with results.

I restored this car bolt by bolt a few years ago, but the dang thing's been so reliable for the last few years, that my shade tree mechanic's skills have gotten a bit rusty.

The Rovers North bbs rocks.

Thanks again.

Myron

[jonnyc]

Multi-year reliability now has me curious.......what carb do you have?

[Myron]

Multi-year reliability now has me curious.......what carb do you have?

Weber 34ICH, which has been faultless for the 17 years it's been on the car. I've rebuilt it once, that's it.

Myron

[Myron]

Just thought I'd post on my results. I used the silicone-based gasket from Gasket Innovations and had excellent results. It fit perfectly and went on with no trouble. Thanks again to Mark, Ted, and Howsomever for the recommendation.

By the way, I was in error when I said the cork gasket had been replaced just last summer. The valve clearance had been adjusted at my shop, but the gasket was *not* replaced. :-( So this gasket was about 12 years old when it finally perished. I consider this good life for this part. If I could get the resistor in the Mt Mansfield heater to last this long I wouldn't have anything to do.

Thanks again,

Myron