Reverse Grinds, Can't engage 1-4..?

[gzarembo]

Hi Everyone,

I appreciate the help as always and find the forum to be a great asset for my landy, that being said.

Last fall I swamped my Land Rover after I had just installed factory locked hubs...classic, fix something and then another thing breaks. I was in some pretty thick mud and eventually winched myself out when the car decided to turn back on after I didn't rev the engine for winch power the first time (obvious carbeurator issues)..long story short I got it home and a week later she doesn't want to move.

I noticed a dripping M/C so I replaced it. The fuild was very dirty, as if the 40 year old seals had become one with the hydraulic fuild. Any recconmendations on nut settings? The original was five clicks down from the smoothed rod where it meets the clutch arm.

I then replace the Slave Cylinder, in comparison to the new the piston the old one was very easy to push back and forth even getting stuck on the bottom sometimes. I did notice that it was dripping out of the main nut, I am going to re-check that the flar is sitting on the slave properly and isn't bent or cox-eyed.

My quesiton is, if it is not the MC adjustment or leaking fluid out of the Slave...where do I trouble shoot to next?


It does shift through the gears when turned off, I read/heard it would be a tranny issue if I can't cycle through gears when turned off. I have also been told that makes no difference?

Not sure where to go from here but I sure would appreciate the advice...Thanks everyone


-Greg

[SafeAirOne]

To me, it sounds as if your clutch isn't fully disengaging when you step on the clutch pedal, so I'd focus on the clutch hydraulic system and its adjustment.

If you are getting fluid leakage, you are also getting air leakage.

I have installed brand new slaves or masters (I can't remember which now) that were bad right out of the box.

[gzarembo]

To me, it sounds as if your clutch isn't fully disengaging when you step on the clutch pedal, so I'd focus on the clutch hydraulic system and its adjustment.

If you are getting fluid leakage, you are also getting air leakage.

I have installed brand new slaves or masters (I can't remember which now) that were bad right out of the box.


Don't tell RN, but both the MC and the Slave were bought from DAP inc. Is there anyway I could test their working capabilities? Also should I have been able to push the slave piston with my finger as I easily as the old one? just slightly or not at all? Appreciate the help

[SafeAirOne]

Don't tell RN, but both the MC and the Slave were bought from DAP inc. Is there anyway I could test their working capabilities? Also should I have been able to push the slave piston with my finger as I easily as the old one? just slightly or not at all? Appreciate the help

Funny--That's where I got the one that I said failed too.

Couldn't say about the force required to move the slave, but there should be no fluid leakage anywhere on the rod side of either the slave or master.

[I Leak Oil]

Another possibility is that the clutch got contaminated when you swamped it causing a sticky or stuck clutch. Get the hydraulics sorted out and see where it stands from there.

[gzarembo]

I replaced the main line which solved the leakage, funny enough then the remote bleeder went, replaced that and she's not leaking anymore. DAP suggested now that its all sorted out I put it in 1st and start the car to pop the clutch off if its stuck..I will try that and get back to you guys. I appreciate the suggestions as always.

On another note when I was messing with the slave I must have nudged the exhaust pipe just so that its leaking massive amounts of smoke where the engine meets the exhaust pipe. I turned it off and sure enough a decent space between the third bolt was causing the issue. At first I thought it was a major problem within the engine till I realized the gap and all the brake fluid on the pipe near the slave. Ha anyways it looks like another part will be ordered.

Thanks again and Take care