New to the world

[primerib]

Hello!

Yesterday I just bought my first Series Land Rover. I have been searching forever! Finally I found a match. We are in love (for now)! I am in the boston area and I am wondering if any of you guys can recommend a good place to go for help with a series rover near buy. Or If perhaps any of you knowledgeable rover enthusiasts in boston would be interested to meet for lunch and shed some personal knowledge on me. I met a guy in Ossipee (far from boston) who is very helpful. But I am reluctant to make another 150+ mile trip before getting a good run through with someone who knows what they are talking about. My goal it to start fixing everything myself, But I would like to know that I am in good standing before I mess anything up/seize anything. Any advise would be very helpful and fall on grateful ears! Thank you. Here is a picture! for sympathy points!

[stomper]

where/who in maine did it come from? that might help shed some light on it as well.

[LaneRover]

Welcome to the asylum!

Ask away on this forum, everyone is pretty nice - though you do have to put us back on topic every once in awhile.

How does it run now? What are the issues it is currently having?

[Les Parker]

Call Aln at Cityside Garage :-

(508)-429-4336

:thumb-up:

[primerib]

Thanks for the welcome!

I got it from a nice guy named Steve (Lovell, Maine). The guy I met in Ossipee was Ed Starr of Resurrected Rovers. Cool guy with a cool place. The rover is in running condition, I drove it all the way back. Problems that I have noticed so far are:

Gas tank leaks...(a lot when full) though that could be the tube to the tank...but I think it is the tank. Further investigation is needed.

Clutch master cylinder (I think) started leaking today down the clutch pedal into the cab while in traffic (Probably my fault). I learned to release the clutch a lot more frequently.

the front hub (outside) leaks a bit (streaks on the tire).

one tail light/ reverse light does not work (hopefully not a wiring issue)

Fan belt squeaks when cold.

and to my knowledge...or...so far, that seems to be it! Although, I am new to the "asylum" :D the rest seems to be good. A few drips from the rear diff and trans case but I Believe that is normal/ok.

Anyway, she runs well and I want to keep it that way. So, I would like to get together with someone and discuss what is a must fix NOW vs what I can fix over time and keep the car running. And, perhaps see if there is anything I have totally overlooked. I am headed over auto zone to by some fluid and an I would like to pick up an anti theft device too. Any you guys would recommend?

[amcordo]

You'll find plenty of stuff that needs fixing. But I'd light a fire under fixing the clutch master - it should not be leaking. It's on the way to failure. I've had it fail completely away from home and it's nuts trying to drive home in traffic without being able to switch gears. Fairly easy job, and a good starter job for a new owner. Lots of good threads on here detailing how to do it, and we're all here to help mid-job if you get lost!




Thanks for the welcome!

I got it from a nice guy named Steve (Lovell, Maine). The guy I met in Ossipee was Ed Starr of Resurrected Rovers. Cool guy with a cool place. The rover is in running condition, I drove it all the way back. Problems that I have noticed so far are:

Gas tank leaks...(a lot when full) though that could be the tube to the tank...but I think it is the tank. Further investigation is needed.

Clutch master cylinder (I think) started leaking today down the clutch pedal into the cab while in traffic (Probably my fault). I learned to release the clutch a lot more frequently.

the front hub (outside) leaks a bit (streaks on the tire).

one tail light/ reverse light does not work (hopefully not a wiring issue)

Fan belt squeaks when cold.

and to my knowledge...or...so far, that seems to be it! Although, I am new to the "asylum" :D the rest seems to be good. A few drips from the rear diff and trans case but I Believe that is normal/ok.

Anyway, she runs well and I want to keep it that way. So, I would like to get together with someone and discuss what is a must fix NOW vs what I can fix over time and keep the car running. And, perhaps see if there is anything I have totally overlooked. I am headed over auto zone to by some fluid and an I would like to pick up an anti theft device too. Any you guys would recommend?

[73series88]

Welcome
Aaron

[SafeAirOne]

Welcome to your new lifestyle!


Gas tank leaks...(a lot when full) though that could be the tube to the tank...but I think it is the tank. Further investigation is needed.

Easy enough to troubleshoot


Clutch master cylinder (I think) started leaking today down the clutch pedal into the cab while in traffic (Probably my fault). I learned to release the clutch a lot more frequently.

It's not your fault--neither of the mater cylinders should leak at all, though sitting a traffic light in gear with your foot on the clutch is poor technique and will wear out the clutch release bearing before its time and could be potentially dangerous, though less-so on hydraulic clutch systems than cable-operated ones.


the front hub (outside) leaks a bit (streaks on the tire).
Easy enough to fix.


one tail light/ reverse light does not work (hopefully not a wiring issue)
Even if it is a wiring issue, the wiring back there is pretty rudimentary. After checking the bulb, I'd remove the wiring cover on the inside of the tub and follow the wires coming out of the back of the bad light till I found the connectors to the wiring harness or to the tub in the case of the grounds (they'll all be located under those wiring covers in the back of the tub). Check for poor contact between the bullet connectors and the 2 or 4-way connectors that they're plugged into or the connector on the tub (in the case of the ground wires).

Note that if you are having trouble with the brake/tail lights on the left side, the wiring is routed so that the wires come from the front of the truck to the right side tail/stop lamp first (under the wiring cover on the right rear of the tub) and inside there they branch off to the left side using bullet connectors and a 4-way connector, so you may need to check for good electrical contacts in there too.



So, I would like to get together with someone and discuss what is a must fix NOW vs what I can fix over time and keep the car running.
From your description, the lights are the only "must fix now" items.


I would like to pick up an anti theft device too. Any you guys would recommend?

The military just takes a chain and wraps it a couple of turns around the brake pedal then once through the steering wheel and padlocks the ends together.

[jonnyc]

If those are your only issues, you've got a good start. As posted below, get that clutch master done ASAP.
Get yourself a "Green Bible", a few basic tools, and hit the internet. Don't be afraid to tackle any job, not much damage you can really do. Your ears will be your first line of defense. Everything will sound bad, but it really won't be. However, watch for those sounds to change. That's when you'll have a new fun problem to deal with. Part of the joy of LR ownership.

[stonefox]

I would like to pick up an anti theft device too. Any you guys would recommend?
Prime,
You shouldn't need a anti theft device. You'll find you will have a hard enough time starting it yourself let alone a stranger :D Besides if it is stolen you can follow the oil slick back to the perps lair.:D
Good luck with the new wheels. It will put a smile on your face and a tear in your eye for many moons to come.:thumb-up:

[giftshopduane]

Where in the "Boston area" are you? I'm in Acton. Just met a great guy from Winchester. I'm trying to get a small Boston area community together, meet some "like minded" individuals... I'm a mechanic always willing to lend a hand. PM for my information.

best
Chris

[SafeAirOne]

As posted below, get that clutch master done ASAP.

Oh yeah--The lights and the MC should be your priorities. I forgot about the MC leak, despite having mentioned it, in my other post.

[TedW]

one tail light/ reverse light does not work (hopefully not a wiring issue

GroundGroundGround................................ ............:D

Check your ground wires - in my experience most (but certainly not all) wiring problems can be traced to bad grounds - and it's important to note that ground wires for many rear lights are grounded to the "aluminium" tub - which, as you will soon discover, turns the aluminium to white powder and kills the ground connection.

Reground all the rear lights to the galvy trim and the problem will be solved.

Also: The rear wiring harness takes a beating from sand and crud kicked up from the tires and the road. Plan on replacing it someday - it's no biggie and you'll clean up many problems - and you'll learn a lot..

Welcome!

Ted

[siii8873]

Prime,
nice looking truck. I have found that making a cheater wire with aligator clips on both ends is a great trouble shooting tool. This won't be the last time you will be tracing down wiring problems. I use this cheater to check for ground problems. I clip one end to a good ground on the truck and then contact the groung connection on the problem light. If it lights your sure it's the ground. I also use a test light to check source problems.
Welcome to the sickness!

[TedW]

Prime,
nice looking truck. I have found that making a cheater wire with aligator clips on both ends is a great trouble shooting tool. This won't be the last time you will be tracing down wiring problems. I use this cheater to check for ground problems. I clip one end to a good ground on the truck and then contact the groung connection on the problem light. If it lights your sure it's the ground. I also use a test light to check source problems.
Welcome to the sickness!

X2.... Very good advice. And keep it handy.

[o2batsea]

Eventually you will rebuild or repair just about every part on the vehicle.

[jac04]

I'm in East Granby, CT. Not too close to Boston, but I've tinkered around a little with Rovers and I'd be willing to help out with repairs if you stop by. PM me if interested.

[primerib]

Thanks a lot guys!

I have started down the road to repairing the master cylinder and light. no luck with either yet.. But, I stopped the squeaky fan belt! So, the neighbors are a bit more pleased!

I was looking at the master cylinder, and I have a power booster to my brakes. So two reservoirs, one for my brakes and one for my clutch master...does that mean I have a series III clutch master cylinder? and still a series two slave? I am about to order the parts. a Master and a Slave. does anyone recommend that I get any additional parts that I will most likely have to replace along the way?

Also someone recommended the green bible. Is that:

Land Rover 2/2A/3 1959-83 Owners Workshop Manual (Autobook Series of Workshop Manuals)

or a different one?

Thanks again guy! pleased to meet you all.

Also, I discovered that i have a pinion seal leak..Is that a relatively light undertaking or is that a tricky one?

Thanks for the help!

[sizod]

A bit of a trek from Bean town but Kane Motor Car in Kingstown RI is the only place I let touch my truck and only when its too cold for me to work outside on it. :)

http://www.kanemotorcar.com/

[stomper]

Make sure you order a flex hose for the clutch system, it will usually break when you try and unscrew it from the slave. Have a close look at the hard line from the master to the flex hose. if it looks solid, you are fine, but if there is any rust or questionable look to it, you may as well replace it and be done with it. it will make it much easier to tighten new fittings than the old ones if it is rusted.

[TedW]

Make sure you order a flex hose for the clutch system, it will usually break when you try and unscrew it from the slave. Have a close look at the hard line from the master to the flex hose. if it looks solid, you are fine, but if there is any rust or questionable look to it, you may as well replace it and be done with it. it will make it much easier to tighten new fittings than the old ones if it is rusted.

X2 on the flex hose. They swell on the inside over time, restricting flow. Cheap insurance.

[jac04]

The pinion seal could be fairly simple. It may just be the seal. If that's the case, unbolt the driveshaft from the pinion flange, remove the pinion flange, R&R the seal and put it all back together. The seal is usually a PITA to remove. Be careful not to damage anything when prying it put.
Unfortunately, the pinion flange is usually grooved as well. You can replace the pinion flange or install a Speedi-Sleeve (SKF #99174 is what I used) on your existing one.

Here are the manuals you want:

[TedW]

Here are the manuals you want:


IMHO you absolutely need the green bibles shown above. However, I have also had great luck with the Haynes manual for Series Rovers - I actually use it more than anything. It's sort of a Cliff's Notes of the green bibles.

Just my $0.02 :thumb-up:

[primerib]

Cool! Many thanks again! I have the bibles/more parts in the mail. I have been reading posts on master cylinder overhaul. Thanks for the list of additional parts. I had a feeling something might break! and I would like to get it all done at once...if possible! I will let you know how it goes. If you think of anything else that might be handy, that advice will go along way as well! :thumb-up:

I was also thinking of replacing the slave at the same time (since the line will be drained). It seems to be ok as of now is there any point in replacing it now or do they tend to last longer than the master? also, if I should replace that as well, any additional parts you recommend ordering that will most likely break on that end?

thanks guys!

[primerib]

Oh and one more thought on the flex hose. There is one for a series IIa late model, and one for a series III. What is the difference? I mentioned earlier that I think that I have a series III clutch master cylinder ( due to the brake power boost and the two separate reservoirs). But I think the Slave is a IIa model (if that is possible) Would I be better off getting the series III flex?

[stomper]

get under the truck and look at the slave cylinder. if it is vertical, it is a series II, horizonal, it is a series III. The diference in the flex pipes it the additional length to reach the series III slave location I believe.

You will find to do the job correctly, you need to remove the floor boards and the tunnel cover. you may want to swing by the hardware store and pick up a few nuts and bolts in case the current ones are seized, and perhaps a few of the little clip on things that the screws thread into. Sorry, I don't know the correct name for these, but they are good to have in the tool kit in the garage for jobs like these.