Locked pintle hook

[cetesse]

Hi all,
On my 1983 109", the NATO installed pintle hook is stuck close -- is there a trick to un-free this?

[east high]

PB Blaster and a dead blow hammer?

[bkreutz]

I'll second the PB, but dead blows don't have much shock value, I'd use a BFH instead. (oh, there's a latch somewhere to keep it closed, I'm assuming you've released that)

[cetesse]

I do see the latch, but cannot unlock it, was wondering if there was something else (a valve or something) that was keeping latch tight.

I guess I will have to hammer harder??

[I Leak Oil]

These lock up pretty easily when not used. Soak it really well in what ever your favorite penetrating oil it. Make sure the locking pin is removed. I prefere a large screw driver but use what ever you like to just work the locking mechanism until it frees up. With it unlocked do the same for the jaw. No real secret, just elbow grease.

[GeniusAndHisAssistant]

if all else fails, take out a torch and heat it WAY up!

[yorker]

6260 You removed the pin that secures the latch-right?

[jac04]

Lots of good info here:
http://www.land-rover-lightweight.co.uk/NATO%20Hitch.html

Pull pin, lift "T" latch up & back, then raise top of pintle. As others have stated, they will seize up fairly quickly if not used & maintained.

I would not suggest excessive heating with a torch. I believe that these are forged, heat treated steel.

[antichrist]

Odds are, once the safety pins are removed, you can just use something to pry up the latch. Then lower the anti-swivel latch and stick a pipe in the pintle to get it to rotate.
They can be pretty much completely taken apart to clean and lube, then keep them lubed. They have grease fittings.

[cetesse]

yes no pin to secure the latch - -will try heat and force next....

[I Leak Oil]

I'd recommend avoiding the heat as well. Should be that stuck. Pry bar, long screw driver should be all you need to get it open.

[Revtor]

Maybe it got rammed into something and bent/jammed? DOes it all look straight from above?

[cetesse]

Open sesame! A crow bar and a bit of banging and she opened up just fine. Now to lube and a lot of wd40 to keep it working...

Thanks all

[Tim Smith]

Open sesame! A crow bar and a bit of banging and she opened up just fine. Now to lube and a lot of wd40 to keep it working...

Thanks all
Good for you!

I'd suggest WD-40 and then lube it up with grease. WD is pretty good at getting into nooks and crannies, and displacing the water, rust and icky but it doesn't work too well long term. But I'm picking at details here. In the end, anything is better than nothing.

When my pintle starts to seize I usually have to tap it open with a hammer and then soak the joints with PB blaster. My followup is to grease the joints with wheel bearing grease and then wipe down the moving parts with a rag covered in the excess grease. Make sure to get the wear surfaces of the hitch or else it will make a foul racket when turning or backing up with a trailer.

[LaneRover]

Good for you!

I'd suggest WD-40 and then lube it up with grease. WD is pretty good at getting into nooks and crannies, and displacing the water, rust and icky but it doesn't work too well long term. But I'm picking at details here. In the end, anything is better than nothing.

When my pintle starts to seize I usually have to tap it open with a hammer and then soak the joints with PB blaster. My followup is to grease the joints with wheel bearing grease and then wipe down the moving parts with a rag covered in the excess grease. Make sure to get the wear surfaces of the hitch or else it will make a foul racket when turning or backing up with a trailer.

Better than WD-40 but great at getting into all those nooks and crannies is Breakfree.

[Tim Smith]

Better than WD-40 but great at getting into all those nooks and crannies is Breakfree.

Never heard of that before. I'll have to give it a try.

I just thought of another great lubricant for creeping in and then staying on for a long time. Wurth HHS-K. I have an old can of the HHS-2000 but still it's good stuff.

[1971Series88]

One more thing after these are forged they paint them! Well guess what that adds a layer of "binding". Scrape or sand the paint around the leverageoints...then lubricate...that solved my issues...

[I Leak Oil]

I just thought of another great lubricant for creeping in and then staying on for a long time. Wurth HHS-K. I have an old can of the HHS-2000 but still it's good stuff.

Does Wurth make any bad products????? Anything that I've used from them has always been great!