Rattle Can Spray Paint

[1971Series88]

So I have 3 bare aluminium panels on my truck, the hood, the pax door and the rear qtr panel on pax side, most/all of the paint has faded away on these three - and my rear tailgate is a different color - while it contributes somewhat to the overall patina/asthetic "appeal" of the truck I think it would look better painted.

Soooooo....that in mind I searched here and found that APSTower Paints http://www.apstowerpaint.com is the product partner of choice for most.

I want to buy the rattle cans and do it myself, versus paying someone, I think it will come out fine.

So what primer product to buy? - 2in1 Etch Primer Filler?????
What Epoxy to buy? - Universal 1K Spray Can????

I would appreciate comments from those that have bought and used the Tower products - and which one they bought!

Pix of affected areas below...

CHEERS!

[TedW]

Craig:

Last year I did my whole truck with DuPont Centari from Towerpaint and, in my view, it came out great.

I used self-etching primer purchased at a local marine store. Eastwood sells a decent self-etching primer, too.

You should also ask Tower what they have - could be one-stop shopping.

Ted

[o2batsea]

I wouldn't bother. Paint the TG if you want but I kinda like the truck just as it is. It is how an old 2A is supposed to look.

[1971Series88]

Thanks Bill & Ted! (now go have an excellent adventure...yuk yuk yuk)

[o2batsea]

Well, if you REALLY have to paint it, then your most user friendly option is the premixed two part paint from Tower. For priming it's hard to beat the performance/value index of Interlux Epoxy Primekote from your nearby West Marine, or via web at Jamestown Distributors or Defender. For topcoating Interlux's Perfection is really great 2 part paint and can be applied using the roll and tip method which will give you the sprayed look without spraying. The color selection is not too great and leans toward a yachty palette. I love that stuff, and it's what I'm going to use on the 109 project. Fortunately they have a color that is just about a perfect match for Limestone.
One notch up on the bothersome-ness scale is Awlgrip topcoat which you have to spray. The color selection is much wider, and the durability and gloss retention is higher than the Perfection. Naturally it is about another third more expensive. You have to prep more carefully and mix carefully and not breathe it and all that.
You may also choose to go with an automotive finish. There is virtually no difference between the marine and the automotive 2 part paints except that the automotive paints are usually sold as an overall coating system, and you will have to buy all the preps, primers, solvents, topcoats clearcoats blah blah blah that go with. PPG, Ditzler, Dupont, and others can supply you with whatever you want and in any color. I know of at least one place near me in Rockville that carries all these finishing systems for cars. That shiz costs the moon.

[Max(SD)]

I recently purchased rattle cans from Tower for my Marine Blue Rover, I found it very difficult to apply without running, plus I am not the best person to prep properly. However I have found a local powdercoater as a result of another non-Rover project I am working on, and they were able to match the color of Marine Blue almost perfectly. I have attached two photos, the first is the seat box which was powder coated and the second is the gear cover which I had painted, I might send that piece off to the powder coated to be stripped and coated.

Not to steal this thread completely, I am tempted to take the fenders, hood, doors and various other parts and have them powder coated in the same blue. Has anyone ever powder coated a car exterior, and are there any negatives. The box came back really nice, and all scratches filled in perfectly with by the powder coating.