Ok, so what will I need?

[dreddub]

So, June 4th I'm going to pick up my new acquisition ('68 Series IIA and I don't have postable pics yet). I will be towing on a tow dolly from Delaware to Jax, FL.

Back wheels will be on the ground, so I know I have to disconnect the rear driveshaft. My "Green Bible" is on order, but I haven't received it yet and I'm starting to lay out what I will be taking. From what I can see from drawings online it looks like there's 4 bolts that hold the rear driveshaft to the rear diff. Just unbolt and tie it up to the frame with some paracord?

I'm planning on taking:
SAE and Metric Socket set. Breaker bar. Floor Jack. Jack Stands. Ramp stands (not sure what will be easier). WD-40. PB Blaster. Paracord. Few figure 9's and carabiners.

Also plan on just loading up a toolbox... What else should be in there just in case?

Thanks,

Dreddub

[Opabob]

Maybe mark the u joint and shaft so they go back together on same orientation. I did not do that years ago and had balance problems afterwards.

[Broadstone]

Most states say it needs to be registered and insured as its wheels are still touching the road. Depends how far you are going but may worth be looking into.

[o2batsea]

Har! Not too much in the way of metric fittings on a 2A. I would urge you to just go on and remove the rear drive shaft. Tying it off will inevitably lead to it falling, and you don't want to be worrying constantly. 9/16ths wrenches needed. One box end and one open end.
I wouldn't worry about it having tags. Technically if it is being towed, it is a trailer. If the tow dolly has tags, then that should cover it. If not, plead ignorance. Cops will probably not mess with you if you don't speed and look like you know what you are doing.
Triple A card far more important than hauling jack stands. You have two "spares" sitting on the dolly, so if the rears go flat swap one of the fronts and get going again. And be sure the lugs are tight. I remember a certain trip with a certain someone hauling his new-to-him 109 pickup on a tow dolly. We were somewhat surprised to see one of the rear wheels passing us on the left and rolling about a half mile down this long hill before finally flying off into the woods. We stopped, recovered the errant wheel, retightened all the lugs and went the rest of the way without losing any more wheels. The truck cab top, however did a back flip off onto I-95 some time later...


Maybe mark the u joint and shaft so they go back together on same orientation. I did not do that years ago and had balance problems afterwards.
No. You are not disassembling the drive shaft, just disconnecting it. Big difference.

[gudjeon]

Disconnecting the rear driveshaft is a sure way to have nothing moving. However LR states that towing can be done with transmission in fourth and transfer case in neutral. Spinning in neutral in the transfer case is preferable as gear oil circulates in it this way. Spinning the transmission in neutral when towing does not circulate oil and can burn stuff out internally over distance.

Best of Luck:thumb-up:

[Alaskan Rover]

Congratulations on joining the maniacal world of Series Land Rovers!! I think you'll find Series IIA rovers to be among the most incredible and rugged machines on earth.

If it were me, I'd actually take the WHOLE driveshaft out. I've broken half-shafts and had to drive 75 miles using the front diff, and was concerned about the rope I was going to use to tie the shaft up with breaking and the drive-shaft dragging on the ground at speed...so I took the whole shaft out...a very quick job since you're already underneath the vehicle.

Considering it's a fairly long trip....I'd actually re-pack the rear wheel bearings with fresh grease...who knows when they were last repacked? Fresh grease might save still good bearings from burning up!!

You might want to consider pulling the half shafts and securing the hubs back on without them, but not sure if this step would be necessary. Anybody?

Make sure whatever lights you'll have in back are very visible.

Can't really think of any other concerns you may need to cover. As long as the driveshaft is out and the rear bearings are freshly repacked, you shouldn't really have any problems...as most of the parts that may cause problems (steering linkages, swivel balls, tie-rods, ENGINE, etc) are UP IN THE AIR!

Good luck.

[antichrist]

You haven't provided any information about the rig (daily driver, barn find, sitting in a field for 12 years?) so with a complete unknown I'd pull the rear half shafts and pack the hub bearings with grease. I'd take 3 hub seals and new hub bearings in case they are trashed.
If you pull the half shafts no need to disconnect the rear propshaft.
Be sure to put it in 4WD otherwise the transmission brake won't do anything (assuming it does now) when you take it off the dolly.

Tools needed
Large flat blade screw driver to pry off the hub cap.
Adjustable wrench to remove half shaft nut.
9/16" (IIRC) socket to remove hub flange bolts.
Small flat blade screwdriver to bend hub nut lock washer.
Small steel punch to flatten lock washer it and bend it back over.
Hub nut socket.
Bearing punch.
Brass punch.
Hammer
Grease
Stuff to clean up with.

[Revtor]

renew the oil in the rear diff, air up the rear tires.
greasing bearings is a good idea.. if you dont then Id stop after 30 or so fast miles and feel around for hot areas (meaning friction)

[dreddub]

Ok, Thanks guys for the responses.

More info, '68 series IIa. Currently inspected and 'running really well' according to seller. Seller admits he is 'not very mechanical' and has a mechanic that does all the work. He is 'having his mechanic look over it' again before the deal, and is fixing a turn signal that won't light before I get there.

I can definitely just remove the propshaft rather than tying it up just to be sure I don't send sparks flying down I95. 8 bolts total, right? Throw it in the bed and put it back on when I get home....

On the other hand, removing halfshafts sounds like a better idea as it lessens possible wear on the rear differential... and I finally got my green bible to be able to look at this procedure, BUT... a few questions:

When you remove the rear half shafts, I assume that you have to then remove them from the 'driving member' and replace the 'driving member' back onto the hub to seal things up? It seems it would be way too easy to just remove the driving member bolts/ pull the shafts/ throw the whole thing in the bed and go, right? Issues would be dirt getting into the rear axle housing/hubs/bearings? If the only issue is dirt intrusion, would it be feasible to just take 2 plywood 'rounds', mark and drill them on the spot and bolt them over the opening for transport?

Looks like packing grease in the bearing requires disassembly of the hub, which I probably won't have the time to do in the PO's driveway.

So, what does the collective assembly say regarding blocking off the rear hub with a piece of wood for transport? Seems like it would be a quick and easy procedure (which is what I'm looking for as I'll want to do the transaction, get loaded up, and make some miles on the day of transport). Also, I'll be doing this in PO's driveway... as he is 'not very mechanical' I don't want to spend 2-3 hours making a mess in his driveway...

If that idea won't work, I suppose I'm back to just taking off the rear propshaft and taking my chances with the rear diff/bearings, etc. Again, this is a vehicle that is up and running in what is reported to be 'good shape', so I think the risk is limited... but always better to reduce as far as possible.

Thanks everyone! I'm enjoying reading my new repair manual and especially this forum...

Regards,

Dreddub

[SafeAirOne]

It seems it would be way too easy to just remove the driving member bolts/ pull the shafts/ throw the whole thing in the bed and go, right? Issues would be dirt getting into the rear axle housing/hubs/bearings? If the only issue is dirt intrusion, would it be feasible to just take 2 plywood 'rounds', mark and drill them on the spot and bolt them over the opening for transport?

They're full-floating axles. Just pull the shafts out and reinstall the drive flanges. Why build a fake drive flange out of plywood when you have the real ones in your hand? Don't make this more complicated than it is.

[antichrist]

If you just pull the half shafts and don't pack the hubs with grease you'll need some 90w to refill the hubs as most will run out while you're dealing with the flange.

[J!m]

I would just pull the rear driveshaft and top up the rear diff. The oil will get into the rear bearings, as I'm sure the inner seal is long gone (did the series even have one here??). Put it into low range and set the parking brake once it's on the dolly.

If you can add the oil while the nose of the truck is pointing down-hill, this will allow you to over-fill it (if it has a rear plug, do it on the dolly if it has a front plug only), ensuring the bearings get oil. Still check for heat after a while as a previous poster noted, as there is a (slim) chance the 40+ yr old inner seal still works...

The list:

Triple-A (paid up)
a couple hundred bucks in cash
Insurance on the truck (you can probably get a policy with the VIN only)
a few tools as noted
some holy water probably wouldn't hurt either...

I think you will be fine. What's the worst that could happen?

[SafeAirOne]

The list:

Triple-A (paid up)
a couple hundred bucks in cash
Insurance on the truck (you can probably get a policy with the VIN only)
a few tools as noted
some holy water probably wouldn't hurt either...

I think you will be fine. What's the worst that could happen?

Also, a camera. Just in case the worst should happen, it'd be nice to have some pics to post up here when you get home.


Seriously, you'll be fine. Just go do it.

EDIT: Oh...don't know if it was mentioned or not, but you might have to deflate the front tires a bit to get the hold-down straps to fit--they tend to be a bit short.

[antichrist]

I would just pull the rear driveshaft and top up the rear diff. The oil will get into the rear bearings, as I'm sure the inner seal is long gone (did the series even have one here??). Put it into low range and set the parking brake once it's on the dolly.Yeah, good point. No, Series didn't have an inner seal.

[dreddub]

Funny these posts came this morning as after thinking through all options again and starting to put the tools together for the trip, this is basically the plan I came up with... Going to do exactly as stated, top off the differential/pull the shaft and go. Don't remember if I said this in this thread or the other I started, but the previous owner states he "isn't very mechanical" but has a mechanic that goes over it for him and has kept it running "without a problem". List of new stuff PO did through this mechanic include: Galvanized frame, master cyl, transmission, transfer case, brake drums, alternator, water pump, belts, gaskets and new seats. I think that if all this was actually done as advertized within the last 2 years, its likely that fluids and grease was added where needed, but assuming anything that seems obvious is always bad practice.

Will definitely take photos and get them posted up.

Thanks again everyone for the input. Looking forward to getting to know this thing and being able to offer some of my own.

EW

[dreddub]

Ok, she's home. No incidents. Overall, seems pretty solid and very pleased with her. Haven't decided on a name yet. Will make another thread to ask a question about turn signals.

Posting pics here momentarily.

Dreddub

[dreddub]

Here she is smiling in her new garage:
6588

Coming home on the trailer:
6589

So not bad. Amazed at what is solid, and what is missing... Guess each of these have a story to tell, huh? Anyway, Galvy chassis in particular attracted me to this one. Figure that is a good way to be sure she's solid and a step toward saftey.

Please see my other post to see if you can help me get her on the road.

Thanks,

Dreddub

[Howsomever]

Hey Dreddub and everyone else,

The rear wheel bearings are lubed by the rearend diff oil not bearing grease. It travels from the diff inside the housing kind of with the axle to each wheel and keeps the bearings oiled. The beauty of it is metal pieces tend to fall to the bottom of things where bearing grease will hold things and keep it in the bearings. Oil is kept in by the inner hub seal and the felt washers on the end of the halfshafts. That being said I would pull the rear prop shaft, top off oil in the rearend and leave the halfshafts in. That way the turning rearend gears will keep the oil moving toward the wheel bearings and lubing them the way it was designed.

[ArlowCT]

I have been following this thread and have been wondering why people pack the bearings with grease?

As I understand it, the axle tube is open to the inside of the hub. The bearings in the hub are open to let oil flow from the axle tube through the outer bearing to the inner. The bearings should always be in a bath of oil if the oil level is correct. The oil seal on the back of the hub keeps the oil in and the felt/rubber washer on the end of the halfshaft keeps the oil from leaking out through the center cap.

If the bearings were packed with grease won't the grease be diluted by the oil very quickly by driving?

Please let me know if I'm not understanding this right, I don't want to kill the next set of bearings I put in the truck.

Thanks!

[gudjeon]

I could be talking out of my butt, but here goes. LR had non-oil hole drive member on "later" models because packing the bearings would suffice for lube until gear oil migrated there and took over. Older drive members had an oil filler hole so the hub could be filled with gear oil for initial lubing and the gear oil here would end up being in the diff and vice versa. I have had both kinds and I repack with grease anyway. Yes, it may wash out, but it lubes all the same after a while.

[J!m]

I always pack a new set of bearings. Are you going to install them dry?!?!

Yes, the gear oil will eventually wash the grease out, but it will only do that if oil is there. While waiting for the oil to 'arrive' the bearings are bathed in grease. When you change your gear oil, the (diluted) grease will come out, and the fresh oil will find its way to the bearings eventually, which are still wet from the old oil.

ALWAYS check the level (every oil change at the very least, and any time you go 'wading' as well!) and keep it full. The pinion seal is the first to go usually, and must be renewed to keep oil in and water out.