Help with a 109

[ocsddep]

I am looking for some answers from anyone who may be very familiar with a series IIA, 109 with the 6cyl engine. To give a bit of background. I just bought this truck from CA, it runs great and has a lot of receipts for work that has been done to it. It is mostly all original, but there are a few things/oddities in it that I can't seem to figure out. Hoping the experts here can help.

1. I have an auxiliary fuel tank under the pass seat. It has a vent tube that runs above it and goes to the B pillar, then sticks out between the front and rear doors on the pass side. There has to be another place for it to go and I can't figure out where.
2. The aux tank has two toggle switches right next to the O/D lever. Both switches have wires going to a pump next to the aux tank. I can understand why there is one switch (To pump fuel to the main tank), but can't figure out why there are 2 of them.
3. 1st and reverse make a very whiny sound, but I don't hear it with the other gears. Truck has a new transmission. Any ideas or what to look for?
4. What kind of top speed can I expect? Truck has the 16" wheels
5. What type of oil do you recommend? In my previous truck with the 4Cyl, I used Valvoline 10W40 year round.
6. I have different stud sizes on the front than the rear. The rear differential has been replaced/upgraded. Is that normal?


That's all for now, I am sure there are more things I am going to need help with. Thank you in advance.
Please feel free to message me here or my email is RNadda@aol.com

Regards,

Ray
67 IIA 109
69 88 (Sold)

[yorker]

mayve one toggle switch controlls the gas tank gauge?

What kind of rear does it have? maybe someone put in a salisbury rear axle? they look like a Dana 60 not at all like a Rover axle. Later 109s came with the Salisbury stock.

Early IIas had threaded in wheel studs with double ended nuts (15/16ths?), Later IIas had studs that were pressed in and had flat single ended nuts, later still(post '68) the wheel studs (M16?) and nuts changed again to 1 &1/16 nuts.

Anyway iff you have different studs F+R I suspect someone swapped in a later axle.

Top speed should be 60 maybe 65.

FOr oil I'd use Shell Rotella 15W40 but that is just me. It is good oil and is available in large containers at a reasonable price. It easily meets or exceeds the needs of our engines.

[stomper]

I agree with everything Yorker said, including the oil recommendations. !st and Reverse are going to whine. They are geared low, and just do. I am sure someone can explain why, but it is normal, and you shouldn't worry about it too much. The passenger fuel tank vent has to go somewhere, and preferably above where any water can get into the tank. I don't know where else you may route it, but unless it is getting in the way, I would let it be.

For your auxillary fuel tank, you may want to follow the fuel line from the fuel pump to the termination. I doubt the pump just pumps the fuel into the main tank, but rather pumps it to a three way valve where it can pump fuel directly to the carburator. The two switches are most likely what Yorker suggested. one for the pump, and one for the fuel gauge switchover.

Good luck with your new purchase! They are slow, but if it is too slow for your taste, consider a roverdrive overdrive system, or an engine swap to something more inclined to push the truck to highway speeds. Then make sure you upgrade the brakes, the transmission, the axles..... You get the idea. It is best to just accept it for what it is, and learn to stop and smell the roses, or EP90!

[giftshopduane]

First and Reverse are low speed gears, so the need to run helical gears at that low of a speed weren't found to be necessary. 2nd and up run at a higher rate of speed therefore running helical gears means less noise. Also straight cut or spur gears can withstand greater forces exerted upon them. The engineers probably found that 1st and R gears are of a short gear ratio and have more torque so it was necessary to run a spur gear, and since 2nd and up the torque load is lessened by momentum a helical gear could be used to quiet operation. Most likely complaints abounded about the noise of 1st so helical gears were fitted in later boxes...

At least that's how I can rationalize it.

Not a Landy but you get the idea..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aWxpIrW4zMg

[ocsddep]

Thank you everyone for your replies. It seems the consensus is that one switch is for the pump and the other is for the fuel gauge. I will ask my mechanic to trace the wires and see where they lead. I did find out that the truck has the "Salisbury" rear end. Maybe that explains why the stud size is different front to rear.
I like the 15w40 oil and used it in my Diesel trucks, but here in MI, temps get very cold and I don't know if that thick of an oil is a good option. I may start with the 10W40 Valvoline and see where it takes me.
I had a compression check done and I am reading 125psi on all 6 cyl. I hope that is a good reading. I will be attaching a GPS to the truck to see how fast it is going. I do have the manual OD on it.
I appreciate the clarification regarding the 1st and Reverse. I hardly use the 1st as I am always taking off in 2nd.
The next thing I have to do is replace the water pump and I found a rebuilt one at Rovers Northwest. I am also in need of determining why my wiper motor doesn't work. If it is the motor and I can't get it rebuilt locally, I am going to do the 2speed conversion. A few odds and ends need to be worked out, but I would say the truck is in a decent shape.
Now, I have to come up with a name and Gazelle is out of the question. :)

[yorker]

I've used Rotella 15w40 down to -25F with no problems, both in Navistar diesels and in the Land Rover 2.25. If you are worried about it though then use Rotella T6 (http://www.shell.com/home/content/rotella/products/t6/).

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l119/sepp45/LR%20parts/Oils.jpg
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l119/sepp45/4X4%20facts/oily202.jpg
http://micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

Oh yeah the valve adjustment on the 2.6l is often neglected- make sure you or your mechanic checks them and keeps up with them.

[chrismccarthy]

if you haven't, please post up in the 109 NADA section here on RN forum. look for it as a sticky. Sounds like you got a great truck. Tell me, is your OEM gas tank still used? I'm wondering b/c they are no longer available, so perhaps the last owner went around the rust in the fuel situ and put the new tank in place.

[smukai]

1) Never even noticed where my aux tank vents to...now I'm going to have to look
2) My truck is set up with an electric pump that pulls from the engine side of the toggle valve so I simply choose which tank to draw from with the valve on the fire wall. There is no pumping into the main tank.
3) Yup. Mine gets a bit noisy too at times.
4) My truck is a four speed, no O/D and I have actually been clocked at just over 70 mph. Down a hill. With a tailwind. With the floors out so I could help yabbadabbadoo it along.
5) 10w40 valvoline summer and winter (here in Colorado)
6) I too carry two different size sockets to change the front and rear wheels. The Salisbury rear is 1 1/16 and the front axle is 15/16.

Have fun!

[ocsddep]

Thanks for all the replies. We discovered that I do have a Salisbury rear end, hence the different lug nuts. I found some at RN and had them ordered. A bit pricey ($13.50 each). Still cheaper than replacing studs.

The OEM tank is still in it. I am assuming it is the OEM. I have a small water leak when it rains that I can't seem to trace. The water puddles on the far side of the car below the windshield in the "Shelf" below the window on the Pass side. That is the only spot. I put in some clear caulk on the front vents, windscreen, window and door seal, but can 't seem to find it. I may have to sit in it and have someone spray it.

I am going to post some pics once she comes back from the mechanic.

[bmohan55]

Thanks for all the replies. We discovered that I do have a Salisbury rear end, hence the different lug nuts. I found some at RN and had them ordered. A bit pricey ($13.50 each). Still cheaper than replacing studs.

The OEM tank is still in it. I am assuming it is the OEM. I have a small water leak when it rains that I can't seem to trace. The water puddles on the far side of the car below the windshield in the "Shelf" below the window on the Pass side. That is the only spot. I put in some clear caulk on the front vents, windscreen, window and door seal, but can 't seem to find it. I may have to sit in it and have someone spray it.

I am going to post some pics once she comes back from the mechanic.


Had a leak in the same spot, finally stopped it by running a bead of clear silicone along the front roof gutter.

[ocsddep]

Had a leak in the same spot, finally stopped it by running a bead of clear silicone along the front roof gutter.

Thanks.. I will try that.

[ocsddep]

Does anyone happen to know the engine Oil Capacity for the NADA 2.6? I tried to do a search online, but gave up after 30 mins. Mine has a 7" Cannister Filter. Thanks, Ray