just bought a 94 lwb need advice

[farmer]

I just purchased a 94 model LWB county. the Rover was running fine and when last shut off now it won't start. the engine turns over fine just will not start. any ideas??

[phoenix]

set up a baseline, do you have spark and or fuel? what kind of maintenance has or did it receive last, when? how did it run before, rough or purred like a kitten....any codes?
LEARN THIS and THEN get back with results, you inquire is so ambiguos, it is the best repply I can offer as a tecnician.

[farmer]

sorry i didn't mean to be ambiguos. it is an early 94 Short wheel base with a 3.9 litre engine. it has been punished pretty bad with little care. the ignition switch is very loose and needs replaced. the fuel pump is running and that is all I know at this time.

[ThePhotographer]

sorry i didn't mean to be ambiguos. it is an early 94 Short wheel base with a 3.9 litre engine. it has been punished pretty bad with little care. the ignition switch is very loose and needs replaced. the fuel pump is running and that is all I know at this time.

Short or long? The thread title reads long, not that it matters. I would start with general maintenance items like spark plugs, wires, voltage test, things like that.

[phoenix]

Short or long? The thread title reads long, not that it matters. I would start with general maintenance items like spark plugs, wires, voltage test, things like that.

exactly, stablish a baseline, see if you have fuel pressure. min 35 psi, check spark, check primary and secondary ignition system, do you have power into coil, does it arc/fire out... does the cap receive, does the rotor distribute, does it come out of the cap to the plug wires, how are the plugs and wires, is there a frayed wire which needs attention, do the injectors open and close, do they stay open, is the engine flooded if so why.... does the ecu show any codes? it is along list but basic items needed to make an engine sputter....

[farmer]

I have spark all the way to through the plugs. problem is no fuel. fuel pump is delivering fuel to the rail psi ok, it was running fine shut the engine off and when i returned it would not start. code 02 on the diagnostic display under the pass seat. no other codes.

Thanks

[farmer]

does anyone know the simplest way to check the fuel pressure on a 94 3.9 with the hotwire efi system??? I have proper ignition no codes but can't get it to start. the fuel pump is delivering plenty of volume but i am not sure of the pressure.

Thanks again to those who have taken the time to help.

[mearstrae]

There's a Schrader valve on the fuel rail and it can be checked with a gauge that fits the tire valve like fitting. (I once used a tire gauge to do this...it's messy and dangerous!!!) There are proper fuel injection test guages, maybe borrow one? When I tested mine the pump seemed to be running (making noise) but the test gauge read "0". Put in a Rovers North pump and she fired right up. The other time (There is always, "The other time."), it was the module in the distributor that allowed a weak spark, but would not allow it to start.

'95 R.R.C. Lwb
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[farmer]

no schrader on the rail on this one. you have to break the fuel line at the filter and check there. still i have no fuel through the injectors. does anyone know where the main relay for the efi is on a June 93 built range rover classic??? I don't think the ecu is allowing the fuel delivery. maybe the MAF?? like i said it was running then just would not start.

[phoenix]

the efi relay will be next to the ecu under the right front passenger seat, not to be confused with the eas ecu which shares the same cubby hole... if Im not mistaken, there will be two metal relays, one on a white receptacle that's the efi the other on a blue receptacle is the fuel pump.
also worth noticing, the mass airflow meter has a single wire as a pigtail, this pigtail connects to positive side of coil it is the signal to the ecu for it to open the injectors.
try disconnecting your throtle position sensor, if it is shorting on the inside, it will think you have a flooded engine and are trying to clear by flooring it...

[farmer]

Ah HA!! Thank You Phoenix very much. the rave manual says the ecu relay is in a different place.well on my model it isn't there but under the pass seat. i will be looking shortly and also try that throttle position trick.

[phoenix]

Ah HA!! Thank You Phoenix very much. the rave manual says the ecu relay is in a different place.well on my model it isn't there but under the pass seat. i will be looking shortly and also try that throttle position trick.

any time, just keep us updated on how it goes...

[farmer]

I retimed the distributor yesterday just to be sure i was in time with the piston. I have excellent fire all the way through the plugs. I gave it a breath of ether just to see if it would sputter. no go!!! i suspect the timing chain may have jumped a tooth. is this common on the 3.9 ??? I am not sure of the miles but probably 200k? I will test compression today and decide whether or not to tear into this engine any further. one question<if i decide to overhaul this myself how do i go about the sleeves?> can they be honed and then re ring? or milled out and replaced with top hat liners?

Thanks to all who have given advice!!

[farmer]

IT IS RUNNING!!!!!!! kinda rough but it is running. I replaced the plugs and cleaned the idle air bypass and held the peddle to the floor and it sputtered and started. after i checked the compression and found all to be ok,so i knew the timing chain was ok. sounds like i have a major vacuum leak hissing somewhere.

THANKS TO ALL WHO HELPED

[Boston]

What colour were the plugs?
When you remove the oil cap what color does everything in there look like?

[farmer]

What colour were the plugs?
When you remove the oil cap what color does everything in there look like?




This thing has been neglected. the inside of the filler cap is dry with no moisture or grey stuff but does show signs of long oil change inter. when i had the distributor out i could see the timing chain and the inside of the timing cover. i was surprised that it looked pretty clean. th plugs all looked really good and i had spark in them also.i think the problem all along was the stepper motor on the idle air and a vacuum leak to boot. this caused the maf to run rich and this fouled the plugs. i still have to place the throttle all the way to the floor to start it. when it first started the lifters were real noisy so i changed the oil and put a quart of mmo in and now everything is real quiet. i think my stepper motor is malfunctioning. this thing needs a tune up REAL BAD.



Oh and by the way. a really big THANK YOU to Steve at Rovers North!!! I called him today and he was the one who suggested i clean the stepper motor and put my foot to the floor while starting. Great Advice!!!!!

[phoenix]

glad to read you got it running, you have just taken the first step into the ownership of a boat, where the happiest days you will ever have with it will be the day you bought it and the day you sold it...lol everything else will be a blurr...
we are here to help, this things are not hondas where all they need is oil change ( I know 'cause I own 2 hondas). they are more like a timex watch... take a licking and keep on ticking, eventually you become a glutton for punishment.
enjoy the vehicle...

[farmer]

yea i am not new to rovers i have driven a series IIA for about 30 years,mostly every day. my wife drives a disco II now and had a 110 for a few years to. i purchased this challenge for my daughter to drive to school and around the pastures. i told her "a rover will take you to the ends of the earth if you don't forget your tools". I have it running fair now but it still doesn't idle to great and i think i will change out the BW transfer case to a lt 230 next as the viscous coupling is shot.

[phoenix]

you have your hands full, I guess all I can repply is "keep on rovering"