Front 88" Springs

[jonnyc]

My front end is a bit low and I think it may be time to replace the front springs. The recent post on the subject got me thinking. I've already decided to use standard leaf springs and I think I'll try to tackle the job myself.
-If the new springs come with bushings installed, will I need anything else besides U-bolts and nuts?
-Since it is LHD, should I get two of the same side springs, or do I need to get LH and RH springs?
-Are there any good on-line tutorials on the operation?
Any other words of wisdom appreciated.

[albersj51]

From what ive been told, the new springs that are out there are not sided, so may find your truck has a slight lean to one side since the orinals were sided.

[Les Parker]

Also consider buying new shackle plate bolts and nuts, the old ones may have frozen inside the spring bushings/frame bushings.

[jonnyc]

Les, what are your thoughts on "handed" springs with a LHD truck? Are they still sold that way, or are they all the same now?

[jonnyc]

Les....?

[ThePhotographer]

I believe Les is traveling in the UK right now, may be a bit for him to respond.

[artpeck]

I took this job on awhile back. The biggest issue for determining how hard it will be and what parts you need is what is the condition of the hardware right now. Mine was fine with no rust and everything came apart easily so it was a very straight forward job. You probably do want to replace shocks as well as springs while you are at it. Make sure you have good quality jack stands as well. Otherwise if it isn't currently in a rusted mess it is a couple of hour job. As to handedness of the springs my research said no. Yes you have the drivers weight on one side but the fuel on the other and the engine weight is roughly evenly distributed. There may be different points of view however.

[jonnyc]

I'm about to pull the trigger on the springs, anyone else want to weigh-in on handed vs. same spring? I'd really appreciate input from anyone who's already dealt with the issue.
TIA

[bobzinak]

just a few things I ran into while recently replacing leaf springs. only do one front/back spring at a time, if you remove both front springs at once the diff weight will tilt the axle housing. and you will have to level it up to put on the springs, you can loosen the ubolts in such a manner that the axle will move back and forth but not come off the centering pin on the spring. make sure you are liberal with anti-sieze compound in the bushing and bolts that go through them. bolts that are frozen in the bushings are very difficult to remove. I had to sawsall between the shackle and the spring to get one of the old ones off. new u-bolts and nuts are a good idea, and will make your reassembly go faster. I did buy handed spring from BP a few months ago. you could give them a call if you can't find what you need anywhere else. wear old clothes, cause it can be a dirty job. I also used a Dupont product called Chain Saver to coat the springs before refitting. removed centering bolt so that I would get good penetration with the lube. Home Depot carries it. make sure that your rover is well supported on proper stands. you don't want anything bad to happen. spray your suspention bolts with a penetrant like wd-40 a day or so before you start. hope this helps. ROVE ON, bobzinak

[jonnyc]

OK, so you did use handed springs. Is your Rover LHD or RHD? Is the Rover sitting level now, or slightly canted to one side?

[giftshopduane]

Don't bother with handed springs, if you can find them handed buy either 2 lefts or 2 rights. Handed springs are assuming you are in a RHD truck, the battery, fuel tank, relay, box and driver are all on the right hand side. LHD trucks have you the driver off setting the weight of at least a battery and full tank of gas.. 2 lefts will be softer than 2 rights..in a perfect world.

somewhere on TeriAnn's sight is the info you seek and more....
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/index.html#spring

[bobzinak]

The rover is laft hand drive, has two fuel tanks. right now it sits level. but leans a few degrees one way or the other with one of the tanks empty. In the past when it did lean, I switched the front/rear springs to compensate for the lean. had to do that on a pair of progressive weight springs. I don't really understand why rovers have such a problem with springs. Seems like a bit of lean one way or the other is almost par for the course. and it drives some folks crazy ( including me). remember "it's just a rover" enjoy, it could be worse. ROVE ON, bobzinak...

[jonnyc]

Been through TeriAnn's site dozens of times, but never read the Springs section. Thanks!

[gudjeon]

I rebuilt a pair of really good, but used front springs, and rear as well. Both sets were handed and it is a lhd. The more curved springs on a LHD usually go on the left side. On a RHD, the springs go on the right. In essence, the idea is the increased curved spring goes where the driver sits. Now this makes good sense on a RHD when the driver sits above the fuel tank and this can add significant weight in some cases.:p However on a LHD, there is no fuel tank, and the driver weight is there, but the landrover motor and transmission sits slightly to the left. I opted for handed springs on the left side of my LHD based on these assumptions. Mine sits pretty level with a 1/2 inch difference driverless from left to right. If I were to do it again, I would use the same springs all around if I were to order new. In fact, I would order all driver side springs all around to give the best height out of my purchase, if given the option.

Make sure the locating hole on the axle housing is cleaned out as it can rust up and make locating the new spring installation difficult. Also, any job like this, it is always a safe assumption to buy all new nuts and bolts. U-bolts cut with a grinder and shackle bolts cut with a hacksaw and the u's can go "ping!" as they are under tension so watch out. Shackle bolts get cut with a hacksaw if cannot be removed in traditional fashion. I try to remove and if I meet resistance, I immediately cut/grind it off. Anything thing that comes apart and is reuseable gets thrown in the spares box. Once you get enough, you could put it up for sale.:rolleyes:

[Les Parker]

I would use both the same part numbers. From experience of mixing and matching, 2 of the same gives the best results.

2p.

PS. Trip to UK was reet grand, drove through Derbyshire and Lincolnshire and around 1 in 6 vehicles was a Landrover product.
Sorry, too busy driving on the correct side to take any pix....

[jonnyc]

Thanks all, I think we've come full-circle now.

[jonnyc]

Had my local guy do the springs (we're showing the house for sale so I'm not allowed to get anything dirty!) and I just picked it up. Big difference. I'm now looking straight out the windshield instead of leaning over and looking up! It looks like its nose-high about an inch or two. Hopefully a few days of aiming for bumps and man-hole covers will settle it down a bit. I instructed him to leave all the fittings a bit loose, hope he listened.

[Les Parker]

Thanks for the feed back.

Please give us an update in a week or two, when things have settled themselves in.

[sleam]

The rover is laft hand drive, has two fuel tanks. right now it sits level. but leans a few degrees one way or the other with one of the tanks empty. In the past when it did lean, I switched the front/rear springs to compensate for the lean. had to do that on a pair of progressive weight springs. I don't really understand why rovers have such a problem with springs. Seems like a bit of lean one way or the other is almost par for the course. and it drives some folks crazy ( including me). remember "it's just a rover" enjoy, it could be worse. ROVE ON, bobzinak...

Thanks for reminding me it's a rover thing, mine leans to the right when parked. A RHD 1972. It doesn't bother me when I'm driving, just looks weird! Not worth worrying about I hope!
sleam

[jonnyc]

I ordered two of the same number, and at this time, with a half tank of gas, it sits nice and level.