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cmcgahagin
07-05-2012, 01:45 PM
I'm getting ready to finally start my IIA rebuild project from the ground up. I plan on taking plenty of pictures to document how things were connected "before" and bagging/labeling pieces so that I'll have a clue where they might belong during the rebuild. I'm not a serious mechanic but I'm not afraid to tear things apart either. Since it's a project I'm looking at a 2-3 year time frame, my wife says 4.
The reason for starting this thread. If you had two recommendations to give me, what would they be? Don't worry about hurting my feelings!

Mercedesrover
07-05-2012, 01:49 PM
If you had two recommendations to give me, what would they be? Don't worry about hurting my feelings!

1) Sell your Land Rover
2) Buy a Toyota

You asked.

cmcgahagin
07-05-2012, 02:04 PM
Sorry, I already have an '10 FJ. The rebuild is still a go.
:-)

Mercedesrover
07-05-2012, 02:22 PM
You'll have fun.

Seriously though:

If this is your first Rover, label and catalog everything you take off and don't forget where you put it all.
You're better of fixing/rebuilding existing parts than buy new. Many new parts are of poor quality.
Remember it's an old Rover. Don't try to make a Rolls Royce out of it and you won't be disappointed.

SafeAirOne
07-05-2012, 02:50 PM
And listen to your wife. She sounds pretty rebuild-timeline savvy, though I usually double the amount of time I initially figure a task should take, just to be safe.

albersj51
07-05-2012, 03:18 PM
I'm 19 months into mine and nearing the end (I hope). My advice:

1. As stated, bag and tag everything and put them some place you'll remember.
2. Take a TON a pictures from several different angles so that you can reference them later to ensure everything is back together correctly.
3. Any modifications/upgrades should be considered and decided upon before you start. I've gone down several rabbit holes and spent money I didn't need to, because I would think, "while I'm here I might as well...". If you know what you want to do and stick to it, you'll finish faster and less broke (either way, unless your rich, its going to hurt the wallet!).
4. Things like nuts, bolts, screws, etc. If you can note how many of each you need, you can order them in bulk from places like McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) for a good price. Going to the hardware store will eat into your budget.
5. Maybe most important: With few exceptions, you're better off going with the best quality you can afford. Also, avoid thinking, "while not for a Rover, I can make this work and its 1/3rd the price!". In the end, it will cost more and take more time unless you're an expert fabricator. An example: The EZ Wiring harness I got, good quality nicely labeled, etc and WAY cheaper than British Wiring. However, after all of the extras I needed to get, the price difference, while still there, is less significant and its taking me significantly longer to complete.

Best of luck!

cmcgahagin
07-05-2012, 04:04 PM
No, she's just more negative. I'm going to work it in sections and try to keep forward momentum and most importantly try and keep it fun, though I'm sure there will be times that it will be hard to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

cmcgahagin
07-05-2012, 04:10 PM
3. Any modifications/upgrades should be considered and decided upon before you start. I've gone down several rabbit holes and spent money I didn't need to, because I would think, "while I'm here I might as well...". If you know what you want to do and stick to it, you'll finish faster and less broke (either way, unless your rich, its going to hurt the wallet!).
4. Things like nuts, bolts, screws, etc. If you can note how many of each you need, you can order them in bulk from places like McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com) for a good price. Going to the hardware store will eat into your budget.
5. Maybe most important: With few exceptions, you're better off going with the best quality you can afford. Also, avoid thinking, "while not for a Rover, I can make this work and its 1/3rd the price!". In the end, it will cost more and take more time unless you're an expert fabricator. An example: The EZ Wiring harness I got, good quality nicely labeled, etc and WAY cheaper than British Wiring. However, after all of the extras I needed to get, the price difference, while still there, is less significant and its taking me significantly longer to complete.


Great ideas! I was considering figuring out which sizes of hardware I was taking off and then buying them in quantity.

TedW
07-05-2012, 04:17 PM
Another helpful hint: Think twice ( maybe three times) before you throw out a part because you think it's too rusty / trashed / etc.

There are many parts I trashed early on and now realize that they were salvageable - and they aren't being made anymore.

superstator
07-05-2012, 05:54 PM
Another helpful hint: Think twice ( maybe three times) before you throw out a part because you think it's too rusty / trashed / etc.

There are many parts I trashed early on and now realize that they were salvageable - and they aren't being made anymore.

+1. Made that mistake more than once.

gudjeon
07-05-2012, 09:43 PM
Keep things organized in an ****-retentive Sheldon style. Do not throw out anything until you you are done and satisfied with it. I eventually sold some series 1 stuff back to England and around the world.

bfishel60
07-06-2012, 12:37 AM
Video the dis-assembly of parts.

Cheap plastic food containers with lids for storing instead of ziplock bags.

Bill Fishel

cmcgahagin
07-06-2012, 05:39 AM
I appreciate the number of inputs. It appears cardinal rule #1 is: Don't throw anything away!

Myron
07-06-2012, 07:58 PM
I told my wife 2 years, and it took 4. I thought I could get by with my rotten old tub, but once off the truck, it wasn't feasible. Bought a parts car and still needed to have the donor tub substantially re-fabbed with new quarter panels. This is very expensive work if you don't do it yourself. Lesson: budget 3-4 times what you think the worst case scenario is.

Now for the disappointing part of what I have to share. I thought that once I had gone through the Rover for good and for certain, I would have a reliable, leak-free vehicle for at least a little while. Unfortunately this has not been my experience. I'm only 4 years from getting it back on the road and this spring and summer alone I have had three leaking wheel cylinders, perished valve cover gasket, two bad hub seals, etc., etc. Just get used to it, or sell it and buy a Toyota (wait, you already have one - maybe you should have your head examined ;-).

Best of Luck,

Myron

cmcgahagin
07-06-2012, 08:14 PM
Myron, Thanks for the thoughts to ponder. I hope things improve for you.

rj34957
07-06-2012, 09:49 PM
Last one I did a total rebuild on I got an old VHS Camera and just let it run on slow. I talked to myself during the tear down. I also videoed some of the difficult parts especially the wiring harness. It was fun to watch the playbacks.

4flattires
07-06-2012, 10:58 PM
I'm 19 months into mine and nearing the end (I hope). My advice:...

2. Take a TON a pictures from several different angles so that you can reference them later to ensure everything is back together correctly. ...



Jyeah!!

This paid off recently, when I confronted the machine shop about a missing manifold stud (not found locally). Finally, he admitted a new guy took off 4 to get it on the machine. Surprising, 1 was missing. I...KNEW...I had not misplaced it.

Pics, pics, pics! Disk space is free (nearly).

cmcgahagin
07-07-2012, 05:08 PM
LOL, All I need is the VHS camera, I've been talking to myself for years!
Thanks for the input.

jac04
07-08-2012, 10:08 AM
Start a build thread & keep us all posted on what's going on. We're all interested in a good restoration project.

Otherwise, lots of good advice. IMO, don't get bogged down in taking detailed pictures or video of every little detail for the purpose of helping you reassemble the vehicle. It's a Land Rover. It's as simple as it gets as far as a restoration goes. The fact that you have enough skill to undertake such a project means that you can figure out how to put it back together. The only reason I took pictures during the restoration of my Lightweight was for my build thread & restoration album I take to shows.

Revtor
07-08-2012, 10:34 AM
Prepare an area in your workspace for parts rejuvenation. Bucket/tub of solvent cleaner with wire basket, deep bucket/tub for wire brushing, sink, and then maybe spend a few $$ on a small sandblast cabinet.

This way all the little brackets and odd parts can be soaked in cleaner, scrubbed, blasted and then sealed/primed.

~Steve

o2batsea
07-08-2012, 11:49 AM
Do not be afraid to pay for professional services. Stripping, paint and galvanizing are three areas where it is more cost effective to have done than to do yourself.
The best treatment is galvanizing followed by epoxy primer and two part top coat. If you can, take the skins off the doors and bonnet and have the frames galvanized. Do not use paint from spray cans. It is junk and will fail within a few years. If you use POR-15 do exactly as the directions say or the product will fail within a few years.
Buy parts from the UK. Even with shipping it is way cheaper. Buy your bulkhead complete or as parts from Pegasus Parts.

TedW
07-08-2012, 04:45 PM
Buy parts from the UK. Even with shipping it is way cheaper.

I respectfully disagree. True in some cases, perhaps, but not in others. Also, the forum you are posting on will disappear if everyone did this.

Buy from our hosts whenever possible.

cmcgahagin
07-10-2012, 06:34 PM
Prepare an area in your workspace for parts rejuvenation. Bucket/tub of solvent cleaner with wire basket, deep bucket/tub for wire brushing, sink, and then maybe spend a few $$ on a small sandblast cabinet.

This way all the little brackets and odd parts can be soaked in cleaner, scrubbed, blasted and then sealed/primed.

~Steve

Thanks for the input Steve, great idea. I was reading your other post about the two week ordeal getting the bolt free. I felt your pain. You have an amazing amount of patience and persistence.

bobzinak
07-10-2012, 07:36 PM
I. get factory srevice manual and parts catalog, Not the "green bible" one, the ones from brooklands, (white covers),they advertise in LRM/LRW. much better step by step instuctions. also many good books on restoring series land rovers are available.
2. use copious amounts of antisieze on every thing you bolt back together.
3. use forums (such as this one) to research problem areas, you'll find your not the first to have some sort of glitch in reassemby.
Sorry thats three recommendations. and remember "its only a Rover" don't build a garage queen that you will be afraid to scatch and get dirty.. It's like the old saying about how great the sailboat lookes anchored in the harbor, looks great, but thats not what it was made for.. ROVE ON! bobzinak