engine shuts off...

[CRiordan01]

Engine just shut off while driving. Green oil light popped on. Looks like power to coil on one side but not other...nor am I getting light when the test light is against the points closed and ignition is on. Ideas? Side note... Radiator is Leaking a bit out of cap. Obviously something amiss here...but one problem or two? Art least it's not raining....yet.

Thanks in advance

[SafeAirOne]

Does the charge lamp also illuminate when the engine shuts off? The oil light doesn't usually turn on till the engine stops spinning completely, but the alternator light usually illuminates immediately.

I've had more than my fair share of experience with this sort of thing. Just yesterday, I bought the components to eliminate this problem from my life once and for all:

Series III ignition switches go bad and turn your Rover off at random intervals when you drive down the road. My last 2 brand new replacement switches were junk and lasted 3 years and 9 months, respectively.

I'm tired of fiddling around with the key trying get the engine to kick back to life before coming to a stop on the freeway.

[CRiordan01]

Mark - I don't recall seeing the charge lamp come on. Just driving and then....nothing. So yours had been an ignition switch in this situation previously? What did you get to solve this issue? Thanks

[SafeAirOne]

What did you get to solve this issue? Thanks

At first, I replaced the switch which got me through a couple of years till it failed again.

After that, I bypassed the ignition switch using 2 industrial toggle switches, one as a master 'on/off' swtich, which turned on and off the power to the 'hot in run' and 'hot in crank' circuits and the other, a momentary (on)-off-(on) switch where if I held it in one 'on' direction, it would supply power to my diesel glow plugs and If I held it in the other 'on' direction it would run the starter. Releasing the switch would turn it off.

Anyhow, I had to find a new inspection station when my regular guy moved on and I didn't want the new place to think this truck was rigged up with duct tape and baling wire, so I bought new ignition switch and put everything back the way the factory had it. Well, that switch lasted 9 months or so.

Now I'm going back to what absolutely, positively works each and every time: See paragraph 2, above.

Note that you may have to verify that your ignition switch is the culprit. Having a gasoline engine, there are a few more electrical things that can make it quit instantly, so you want to troubleshoot a bit, but the SIII ignition switch should be high on the list...

[Billy5]

Check the supply wire to the switch, that crapped out on me, so I rewired a fused feed from the solenoid to the fuse bar. Hasn't acted up since ( knock on wood).

[SafeAirOne]

Corey..I just re-read your OP. Did you say that you ARE getting 12v between the coil primary input (+) terminal and ground but ARE NOT between the coil primary output (-) terminal and ground with the ignition switch on?

In that case, it sounds like the ignition switch is OK as it's letting power through to the coil but the power isn't getting out of the coil and on to the points in the primary circuit, suggesting problem in the primary winding inside the coil.

[CRiordan01]

Mark,

Yes, I was getting 12v to the + side of the coil. The test light wasn't lighting up on the other side of the coil (wire leading to the distributor low tension lead). Points were sparking. I suspect the issue is either the low tension lead itself or the wire from the low tension lead to the coil. I just replaced the points, condensor and coil a few months back and had soldered the old distributor low tension lead (rather than replace it at that time).

Still not sure what is going on with my radiator. This is the second time the engine has shut off on me, and the second time that coolant was bubbling through the radiator cap. My engine temp gauge never moved to red, so no indication of overheating, but I am pretty certain it has to be occurring. Don't know if these issues are tied together or independent.

Either way, I towed directly to a local shop. Hoping their knowledge outstrips my meager experience and gets things fixed quickly.

Mark - I did want to thank you again for the speedy initial response. While I wasn't able to get the vehicle running yesterday, you responded within 15 minutes of my initial post while I was still tinkering around under the hood. I am constantly impressed by the folks on this forum and their willingness to offer up help.

Cheers.

[thixon]

Corey,

It sounds to me like you have two different problems going on here.

Which wire did you say you soldered, and why?

Try this link. Its a good explanation of how a points ignition system works, and has some trouble shooting recommendations. http://home.mindspring.com/~purlawson/files/LucasPointsIgnitions.pdf

As far as you're leaky cap goes, it may just be a shot cap. Is it only leaking when the truck shuts off on you?

[SafeAirOne]

Hmm. Let me say first off, that I despise test lights.

If you are observing a spark at the points, then electricity must be coming from somewhere and that somewhere pretty much has to be the output side of the coil primary circuit unless something really screwy is going on.

If the condensor is doing its job, you shouldn't see any spark when you open the points under most circumstances.

[bmohan55]

A while back (before the engine rebuild) mine did the same thing twice on the way back from Charlottsville, lots of fun at highway speed! I had a new distributor with a new condenser. I put in my old condenser and never had the problem reoccur. My understanding was that some new parts are not as good as the orginials. This was the main reason I switched to Pertronix ignition during the rebuild.

Radiator cap...probably just needs replaced as I had the same problem there too!