Fliuds

[rof]

Hello yall,

Just found the right rover and purchased it.
Now, it is usual for me to change all fluids whenever I purchase a new vehicle. Also due to my experiences in racing various vehicles, I am prone to use Redline fluids because I have had good results with them under hard use conditions.
Which begs the question. Can I replace all the fluids in a 82 series III petrol with the appropriate Redline product, or should I stick with UK products?
Also any suggestions on brake fluids? I know that it needs to be DOT 3, but beyond that does anyone have a specific product that they like. I have been using Motal 600 recently, but don't know if i need anything that exotic.
Yeah, I know it is a big switch from racing to series, but at my age, it is probably time to slow down and enjoy the ride.
Thanks,
Wayne

[stomper]

it is good practice to change out fluids whenever you buy a used 4x4 vehicle, as you don't know when they were changed last, and if the fluid is contaminated with water, or if it has leaked out! That being said, some people use cheap and cheerful 90 weight for a reason. it is less expensive to replace when it leaks all over your garage floor, which most of these trucks do. expensive fluid is also not required, as it is often unlikely you will be working the truck so hard that it will exceed the parameters of a normal fluid. Put in what you like, it won't hurt anything. The only place I would suggest a more exotic fluid would be the overdrive, if you have one. they can run hot and are noisy by nature, so a little better fluid can quiet them down and displace the heat better.

Brake fluid is another story. Most people will insist you use Castrol LMA only so it does not damage the seals in the master cylinder. You definitely don't need anything exotic, but a normal DOT 3 will be fine. I'm sure someone will disagree with my brake fluid remarks, this debate has been discussed here several times.

[TedW]

I agree with Stomper's sage remarks. However, I run synthetic everywhere (Amsoil or Mobil1). The increased cost is marginal (in my view) and everything runs cooler. I also see relatively little leakage - same as what I had with dino.

Just my HO.

[rof]

Thanks guys,
I appreciate the advice. Not that I plan to work the Rover hard, but have a bunch of the Redline left over and basically have been sold on its performance. Just wanted to make sure it would be ok in the rover.
Will pick up some of the brake fluid and flush the system. The truck has basically been kept in a garage and only driven lightly, but as Stomper pointed out, don't know how long since it was changed and figure it is cheap insurance to change out all and know how it is fresh.
Thanks again

[o2batsea]

To me it's not really worth the extra expense for synth cz I change fluids so frequently. I do engine every 3K miles or quarterly whichever comes first. Same with grease. Diffs and gearbox every other time. I also hit everything that wiggles under the bonnet with Boeshield. I use it on the door hinges and latches too. Grease battery terminals under the boots with a big glob of silicone grease.
It's a ritual. Crack a Yuengling, start at the front and work to the back.

[TedW]

Crack a Yuengling, start at the front and work to the back.

Probably the best advice you will get.

[SafeAirOne]

Just to clarify--I think it's DOT 4-compliant brake fluid that we're using, not DOT-3. At least that's what Land Rover is using and Rovers North is supplying to series owners that purchase their brake fluid through them, though I suppose in the end it doesn't really matter so long as your system is entirely one type or the other:

http://www.roversnorth.com/images/Product/large/GBF4100.JPG

[parrie]

I beleive DOT 4 is correct and preferred...not 100% sure what the difference is but I'm positive LR recommends DOT 4. I'm partial to the synthetics especially for the engine wether the oil is changed every 3k or 5k or 7k. I can visually see the difference between synthetic and non-syns during an oil change...the non-syns look and feel spent while the syntheics still look and feel healthy. For me the added cost is worth it.

[mearstrae]

Synthetics do not prevent wear but do slow it down, as well as run cooler and quieter (in gear boxes). DOT-4 also slows wear in the brake system, as long as it is flushed of any DOT-3, and only "4" is used thereafter.

'95 R.R.C. Lwb
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[pitchrollyaw]

Thanks guys,
I appreciate the advice. Not that I plan to work the Rover hard, but have a bunch of the Redline left over and basically have been sold on its performance. Just wanted to make sure it would be ok in the rover.
Will pick up some of the brake fluid and flush the system. The truck has basically been kept in a garage and only driven lightly, but as Stomper pointed out, don't know how long since it was changed and figure it is cheap insurance to change out all and know how it is fresh.
Thanks again

Another Redline fan here, from another car life. I switched to all Redline in the drivetrain a while back and noticed a few things over a few months;
-possibly a bit more dripping from the tranny and t-case, nothing major. Assuming Redline does not cause leaks but flows better through them.
-less seeping from my less-than-perfect swivel balls w/ the Redline Heavy Shockproof. Same w/ steering box.
-shift feel is better w/ the MT90, still quite balky, but this is the first car that I actually felt a difference on

I talked to Redline's Tech folks before making the switch and got their recommendations on specific fluids.


I always use LMA Castrol DOT 3/4 on my old Brit cars, decent fluid specs and supposedly compatible w/ traditional (antique) seal materials, etc., though by now all of our cars have probably had their hydraulics rebuilt once or twice and have modern seals.

[rof]

isn't this forum great! Thanks again guys.
Where else can one find all this experience?
I am sure I will be posting more questions once I get into checking the truck out.

[sunnyeveryday]

Series 3 LWB/109".

How much brake fluid should you expect to use on a complete replacement ?

I haven't sent it listed anywhere.

[jdesigns2001]

I would look into using a gl-4 gear oil instead of a gl-5. If you do a little internet research, you will see that there are a lot of folks that say the newer gl-5 will eat away at soft yellow metal in these older transmissions and t-cases. I don't know if this is true, but worth looking into and making your own call on it. I wish that someone had told me this when I first got my truck. I noticed when I drained out the regular gear oil I could actually see yellow metal content in the used fluid. Also for motor oil, I have read that most newer oils have less zink and phosphorus than what is required for a older flat tappet engine. I use mobile 1 15-50 because it is specifically formulated with flat tappet applications in mind. Just my 2 cents, you really have to form your own opinion, since everyone will tell you something different!

[greenmeanie]

Bobistheoilguy (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/)

Everything you ever wanted to know about any fluid that goes near a vehicle. Be warned, once you start reading the information and understanding the technical aspects behind lubrication you might find yourself spending hours in the oil aisle choosing just the right oil.

[cedryck]

I Love the cheap and cheerful 90w for the gearbox, diffs, and transfer case, yes it will leak out, it is cheap and plentiful in the large container, always a good idea to check your fluids often on these cars, take notice to the color of your brake fluid, should not be beyond a carmel color a mechanic told me. cheers.