Fuel pump recommendations pls

[mrdoiron]

Gents (or any lovely Series-ladies),

My 2.25 69 Ser-IIa often sits for up to 2+months before I get to take her our for a drive, as I travel a lot and don't get around to giving her attention lately. As such, recently I find it won't fire after sitting a while, even after hitting the primer level several times - and only fires after I drop some fuel into the carb.

1. Is this normal, and possible indicating a bad fuel pump ? Once started it drives fine, and starts up fine next time so ling as it doesn't sit long.

2. I'm imagining an Electrical fuel pump would help life a bit - looking for inputs there... and if so, any recommended electrical file pumps ?

cheers, mike

[SafeAirOne]

I imagine all the fuel is evaporating and/or siphoning back to the tank during the lengthy no-run periods. You probably have to draw fuel all the way from the tank and fill up the carb bowl every few months when you start it, which is quite a bit more than 'several times' with the hand lever.

An electric pump would save you the time of refilling all the lines and bowl by cranking or hand-priming. I would think there'd be a check valve somewhere in the system, but there may not be, so you might consider installing one before the mechanical pump. Either that or go out and start it every few weeks.

In electric fuel pumps, I prefer the Facet cylindrical pumps. That's what the 2.6L 109's use for a boost pump. Lots of aviation and marine applications for these pumps as well. Mine's been going for almost 40 years now.

[disco2hse]

wot he said ^^^ +1

[mrdoiron]

Appreciated,
I think the 100-105 degree weather in Dallas is not helping on the evap front !

I will check into a check-valve - good point - and also the Facets

cheers, mike

I imagine all the fuel is evaporating and/or siphoning back to the tank during the lengthy no-run periods. You probably have to draw fuel all the way from the tank and fill up the carb bowl every few months when you start it, which is quite a bit more than 'several times' with the hand lever.

An electric pump would save you the time of refilling all the lines and bowl by cranking or hand-priming. I would think there'd be a check valve somewhere in the system, but there may not be, so you might consider installing one before the mechanical pump. Either that or go out and start it every few weeks.

In electric fuel pumps, I prefer the Facet cylindrical pumps. That's what the 2.6L 109's use for a boost pump. Lots of aviation and marine applications for these pumps as well. Mine's been going for almost 40 years now.

[mrdoiron]

What do you think of this Facet :

6952Specification Competition
Pump 40107
Voltage 12v
Earth Neg/Pos
Pressure (psi) 6.0-7.0
Flow (gallons/Hr) 25
Height in Metre 0.3
Thread size nptf 1/8th
Operating Temp. -31 to +55 Degrees C

P/No SS503


Appreciated,
I think the 100-105 degree weather in Dallas is not helping on the evap front !

I will check into a check-valve - good point - and also the Facets

cheers, mike

[mrdoiron]

although - not sure what psi the carb needs exactly, but this one may be too much ...


What do you think of this Facet :

6952Specification Competition
Pump 40107
Voltage 12v
Earth Neg/Pos
Pressure (psi) 6.0-7.0
Flow (gallons/Hr) 25
Height in Metre 0.3
Thread size nptf 1/8th
Operating Temp. -31 to +55 Degrees C

P/No SS503

[TedW]

I run a Carter 4070 electric pump and am very happy with it.

[SafeAirOne]

The type Facet Pump I was referring to is the cylindrical type, though it probably doesn't matter which kind you choose if you go that route.

As for pump specifics, you just need to find one that'll supply a sufficient volume of fuel at a psi that won't overcome the float valve in the carb and is 12volt and has the right size fittings.

Here's the chart for the cylindrical pumps; The cube pumps have their own chart on this site too, you just need to backtrack to find it:

http://www.facet-purolator.com/gold-flo.php

[mrdoiron]

very good, thanks.
So a 4-6psi range should suffice I think for the Weber, need to check if they come with specific fittings or a range in a kit...

appreciated, mike

[SafeAirOne]

Most of them seem to be 1/8" fittings. The exact specs for the different pumps are listed in the "OEM" pages, not the "Retail" pages:

http://www.facet-purolator.com/oem.php

(Select the style pump, then hit the "Click here for more information" link.)

[jac04]

The mechanical pump has a set of valves in it. The valve that allows fuel into the pump should act as a check valve to keep fuel from draining back into the tank. However, I have experienced similar issues to yours on my old 63 and my current Lightweight. Both had original AC pumps. Both would sit for long periods of time between starts. I believe that the valves in the pump never seal perfectly and allow fuel to drain back slowly.

My 63 had a starter circuit separate from the ignition circuit, so I would simply crank the engine until oil pressure built, then turn on the ignition. For my SIII Lightweight, I found a simple solution. I installed an ignition cutoff switch that cuts power to the ignition and fuel shutoff solenoid at the carb. If it sits for a while, I simply shut off the ignition cutoff switch & crank the engine until the oil pressure light goes off, then switch on the ignition and it fires immediately. The added benefit is that oil pressure is built before firing the engine.

I did this because I didn't want to install an electric fuel pump.

[jac04]

I run a Carter 4070 electric pump and am very happy with it.

Ted- Are you running this pump on a Weber? Do you need to use any type of regulator?

[mrdoiron]

I would prefer to find good one not needing a separate regulator.

Carter and Facet appear to have options I can go with...

Jac - you still have your lightweight ?

cheers, mike


Ted- Are you running this pump on a Weber? Do you need to use any type of regulator?

[Whiterabbit]

The Carter 4070 is a great pump but pricey. (Avance Auto is the cheapest) And BIG! You gott'a have room for it. I've not had good luck with the facet "cubes" and they're noisy as hell. Get the inline version for ease of fitment. They are a solenoid/piston pump I beleive??? Aerotek makes some nice ones too. Nice N quiet but put a lil' filter in the line prior to the pump, they don't like trash. I have a 109 with tanks under the seats and I'm catch'n hell trying to find a good spot to mount a Fram HPG1 filter and a Holley red fuel pump so make life easy on yourself and get the inline pumps. If you have a Weber keep the PSI as low as possible, 2-3psi max is all you need for them.

[mrdoiron]

good feedback, thanks

[jac04]

Jac - you still have your lightweight ?
Yes Sir. I even drive it sometimes.

[TedW]

Ted- Are you running this pump on a Weber? Do you need to use any type of regulator?

jac: What do you mean by a regulator?

Yes, I run it with a Weber - there is a site that specializes in Webers and they say that this pump is just right in terms of pressure, flow, etc. for Weber carbs. It is a bit buzzy - I mounted it to the front of the fuel tank outrigger, so it's right below the passenger's feet.

I bought the optional oil pressure switch - the pump doesn't get any juice if the motor isn't running and producing oil pressure - handy in an accident.

Ted

[Tbedman]

Try petronix iginition system. It works great. After 2 months sitting starts every time.

[TeriAnn]

very good, thanks.
So a 4-6psi range should suffice I think for the Weber, need to check if they come with specific fittings or a range in a kit...


Both Webers & the LR carbs like about 3lbs pressure & high volume. The low pressure version of a Facet will work but stay away from the higher psi pumps. Too high a pressure than the float valve gets overwhelmed.

The stock mechanical pump of course designed to work properly with the LR carbs and happens to work well with both the Weber and Rochester.

[siii8873]

I had this issue with one of my trucks. It ended up being a very minor air leak in th line before the pump. The pump would not pick up fuel if it sat. If I primed the carb a couple of times it would start and run fine. After I tightened all fittings it worked fine.