Heater Question

[ocsddep]

I have a 67 NADA. The heater I thought is a Smith, but I am told that NADA used a special heater not used in any other trucks. Is that true? Anyway, I can't get any heat. I flushed it, replaced the control valve and still cold air. I am guessing my next option is to either rebuild the heater core or replace it. Can anyone tell me what type I have based on the attached pic? I don't have a close up because the truck is in the shop. Thanks, Ray

7026

[73series88]

That's just a pic of the heater coreWhat's under the wing?Looks like the same core I used to have in my 88Aaron

[ocsddep]

If by wing you mean fender, there is a blower motor. If by wing you mean under the dash, there is a long air box.

[Boston]

Kodiak heater was the special fitment.

[stomper]

Just pop the core out of there, run some water through it, and see what comes out. It it is looking really bad, or there is leaking, take it to a radiator shop and have them rebuild it with a new core. Nothing hard about it, and it doesn't matter what model it is.

[o2batsea]

I can't imagine that heater, even on it's best day, can cope with a Michigan winter. Now is the time, before it gets cold, to upgrade to either a Kodiak, or another modern equivalent that will actually blow some therms your way.

[stonefox]

Insert plug here: "I may know some body with a spare Kodiaky" :cool:

[Rat Patrol]

It be interested in knowing where to get one or how to upgrade. Wyoming gets freaking cold too.

[ignotus]

Not to sound like a smartypants, are you sure the valve from the head is open? If you've flushed the core and the blower works you should get some sort of warm air IF the valve is open and the engine is warmed up.

gene

[Jim-ME]

I am not unhappy with my stock system in Maine. It seems to work pretty well unless the heater core is so plugged up with dirt that air can't actually move thru it. I was amazed at how much air actually flows thru my heater with a stock blower now that I have a new heater core.
Jim

[TedW]

I am not unhappy with my stock system in Maine. It seems to work pretty well unless the heater core is so plugged up with dirt that air can't actually move thru it. I was amazed at how much air actually flows thru my heater with a stock blower now that I have a new heater core.
Jim

x2. I get more than enough heat (with soft top)from my stock setup, and Jim will agree that it gets cold up here.

[Jim-ME]

It does help quite a bit to use a fume curtain though.
Jim

[stomper]

I have an 88 stationwagon with a kodiak Mark III, and with a good heater core, it puts out plenty of heat. I don't need to wear a jacket, and I often times will shut it off as it gets too hot.

I've learned to take whatever O2batsea says with a grain of salt. to him, nothing on the original rover is good enough, it all must be thrown away and upgraded.

[artpeck]

When you say you flushed the core did you actually flush the core or the cooling system. I ask as if there is gunk innthencore you have to flush it from the input to the return disconnected from the block. Sorry if this is obvious but I thought it worth asking. Getting no heat doesn't make sense if the core is running with hot water. Getting enough heat to cope with your environment is the debate above. I have a standard smith and it produces quite a bit of heat AFTER I flushed nearly solid gunk out of the core by using the technique above.

[o2batsea]

I have an 88 stationwagon with a kodiak Mark III, and with a good heater core, it puts out plenty of heat. I don't need to wear a jacket, and I often times will shut it off as it gets too hot.

I've learned to take whatever O2batsea says with a grain of salt. to him, nothing on the original rover is good enough, it all must be thrown away and upgraded.
Thanks for the love, dood. You may read thru every post I have ever written on the web and in not one of them do I say anything negative about anyone. I trust that people are adult enough to draw their own conclusions about my opinions, and take them or leave them as they see fit.
And to stay on point, a Kodiak heater as I mentioned was an OE option.

[ocsddep]

When you say you flushed the core did you actually flush the core or the cooling system. I ask as if there is gunk innthencore you have to flush it from the input to the return disconnected from the block. Sorry if this is obvious but I thought it worth asking. Getting no heat doesn't make sense if the core is running with hot water. Getting enough heat to cope with your environment is the debate above. I have a standard smith and it produces quite a bit of heat AFTER I flushed nearly solid gunk out of the core by using the technique above.

Good news! We have HEAT.. My mechanic said there was a lot of gunk that came out of it. He flushed with water and air and we also replaced the heater control valve because it was corroded. There is a lot of air coming out. I have a feeling it will be warm enough for those MI winters. I guess I will find out soon, unless I sell the truck first.

[artpeck]

Good news! We have HEAT.. My mechanic said there was a lot of gunk that came out of it. He flushed with water and air and we also replaced the heater control valve because it was corroded. There is a lot of air coming out. I have a feeling it will be warm enough for those MI winters. I guess I will find out soon, unless I sell the truck first.

Glad it worked. I was astounded when I flushed mine what had accumulated to a nearly solid mass.

[rejeep]

I would also make sure you are running a winter thermostat.....
made a HUGE difference in my truck.....