Series Trailer Wiring

[SeriesCanuck]

What are people who tow small trailers behind their series trucks doing for trailer wiring? I'm looking at perhaps acquiring a Sankey trailer and I have no trailer wiring on my series? Thoughts, tips, comments etc......

I have a 63' series 2a 88"

[east high]

You need this thing: http://www.hopkinstowingsolutions.co...verter_60.html

[disco2hse]

Sankey trailer as in military? Chances are you will have a Nato ring on it, which is easy enough to replace with a trailer hitch, unless you want originality (and don't want hearing once the ring starts clanging about). It may also be fitted for 24V, with a Nato plug and most civvy vehicles do not have the wiring to support that. Again, it is easy enough to pull al the wires out and put in a new wiring loom. Then all you have to do is wire it into your existing circuit with a standard 12/24V flat or round trailer plug (what ever is the standard around where you live).

Personally, I'd also take the opportunity to get 12/24V LEDs fitted too. I have done this will my trailers so now I can use them on the 24V and 12V vehicles.

[SeriesCanuck]

Thanks Guys. I picked up a taillight converter gizmo and still have to install it. Has anyone tried and had success with mounting a step bumper hitch to a Series? (something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/5000-lb...ver-67158.html)

I know there are some 2" hitches out there for our trucks (Pangolin, Rovers North) but I really don't tow that often with the Series but would love the option of hooking up my little utility trailer to tow around the property or maybe on short jaunts to the city. They look quality but still a little pricey in my opinion ($200)

The Toyota guys have these available for light duty towing: http://www.jtoutfitters.com/receiver...rd-p-3069.html

Any comments are appreciated.

[disco2hse]

Whatever you get, you ought to make certain it is rated for a minimum 3.5 tonne braked. The standard LR hitches already are.

On mine, I have a hole that goes right through the rear cross member and the hitch goes right into it. It is bolted with plates welded on both sides and with 12M high tensile bolts. It's strong enough.

[Partsman]

This is what I have

[disco2hse]

It is perhaps not very easy to see but this is what I was describing. If you want to see it better, let me know.

The square box section you see goes right through the rear crossmember and the bolts are secured by a backing plate welded to the cross member from the inside.

[Jim-ME]

IMHO the best receiver hitch assembly out there for a Series truck is one from Ike Goss at Pangolin 4X4.
Jim

[o2batsea]

All the wiring for the lights are on 4 way bullet connectors. If you take off the light cover boxes you'll see. You need only make up the short pigtail that connects the trailer plug to these connectors. Wiring diagrams available all over the web. Britishwiring.com has all the wiring and connectors you could ever need. You can wire the Sankey with a regular NATO style plug so that you get separate stop and turn signal lights as God/Lucas intended.
I am not sure but you may even be able to hit them up for a pre made trailer pigtail. They can make stuff like that on a custom basis.

[Kiloengineer]

Hi guys,
I have the same question as SeriesCanuck, but after reading this I'm still not sure if I need the converter that East High recommended, or can I wire a flat-4 connector direct to the car wiring (68 Series 2A)? Is that what you recommend o2batsea? Could you possibly point to a wiring diagram that shows how you deal with separate stop lights and flashers? Thanks.

[I Leak Oil]

How you wire it really depends on what the trailer has for lights. A using the factory lights on a Sankey is going to require different wiring than the standard type trailer lights.

[Revtor]

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""The Toyota guys have these available for light duty towing: http://www.jtoutfitters.com/receiver...rd-p-3069.html
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That looks plenty stout (for towing, maybe not hard core recovery) and for 1/3 the cost the D-90 guys are paying for essentially the same thing. . .

[stomper]

Why buy that, when you can have a real tow reciever made by Ike? Sure it costs less, but I'm sure it is mass produced, and doesn't offer the same costomer service and fine craftmanship.

[Jim-ME]

And it is just plain better. Why scrimp when you plan to tow?
Jim

[disco2hse]

I know your question is rhetorical and so is my answer: it is a matter of balancing perceptions of risk. That is, the risk of spending more money than a person wants to is greater than than the perceived risk of a coupling failing and an errant wheeled object careering into oncoming traffic and killing others who are innocently going about their business.