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emmotto
09-11-2012, 12:28 PM
I have a relatively (2 months) new2me 1969 S2a 88 - it came with an aftermarket conversion to spin off oil filter and a bunch of assorted parts including a dash panel with oil pressure gauge (electric).

I've cleaned up the panel, repainted it and mounted my choke and heater valve cables in it. Now I'd like to make the oil pressure gauge read something other than zero.

My question is where do I put/find the sensor? And in LR factory parlance is the word switch interchangeable with sensor?

I ask the latter because I've found factory manual drawing that show an "oil pressure switch" mounted on the original oil filter mount.

1. Is the oil pressure switch/sensor used only for the idiot light (that works) in the gauge cluster? Or can it operate a gauge as well.

2. how does one go about powering a gauge given that I no longer have the original oil filter mount?

3. what does the sensor/switch high up on the front RH side of the engine block feed?

4. Is that the replacement for the filter mount switch?

Thanks

Mike

artpeck
09-11-2012, 02:34 PM
I have been working to try to fix a previously functioning but not right now oem oil pressure gauge on an S III so I may be able to help a bit. The sensor for the gauge is separate from the idiot light. While I am not at the truck right now I can picture the gauge sensor in a different spot farther up the block while the sensor at the filter is for the idiot light. As to the sensor high up the block on the right if you are saying on the right facing forward that is the water temp sensor. If on the other side I have no clue as there isn't anything on my engine like that. I can share a bit more information when I can actually look at the truck.

TedW
09-11-2012, 02:47 PM
Mike:

The gauge sender would have originally been attached to the oil filter housing with a brass banjo attachment (at least it was on my '70). The sender is round, about 2" across and 3/4" or so thick - it looks like a little can. The wire will attach to the middle of it.

Your spin-on adapter will have 1 or 2 threaded holes, one of which will hold the switch for the oil pressure idiot light. You can put a new gauge sender in the other one (IIRC), or, if you only have one hole you can get a t-adapter, usually available at NAPA or Ace.

Our hosts may have replacement gauge senders - they are pricey and unreliable (in my view), and it is my understanding that electric gauges are less accurate than mechanical ones.

You can get a genuine looking Smiths mechanical gauge from various sources and plumb it up with few problems. I did and am very happy with it.

Just my $0.02......

Have fun!

Ted

emmotto
09-11-2012, 02:57 PM
As to the sensor high up the block on the right if you are saying on the right facing forward that is the water temp sensor.

I should clarify - from the front of the truck facing back towards the bulkhead/windshield: at my right on the front of the block, in a vertical orientation is the water temp sensor. At my left high up on the front side of the block is a sensor with a single wire coming out - I'm guessing this is my oil pressure idiot light switch cause I don't have any sensors/switches/wires on my oil filter housing or adapter.

In my original post when I was saying on the right side of the engine I was thinking of facing forward towards the front of the truck and radiator - as if I was in the cab.

Sorry for the confusion.

I will take a closer look at the filter adapter to see if there is a blanked off hole for a sensor.

Mike

emmotto
09-11-2012, 03:01 PM
Mike:

The gauge sender would have originally been attached to the oil filter housing with a brass banjo attachment (at least it was on my '70). The sender is round, about 2" across and 3/4" or so thick - it looks like a little can. The wire will attach to the middle of it.

Your spin-on adapter will have 1 or 2 threaded holes, one of which will hold the switch for the oil pressure idiot light. You can put a new gauge sender in the other one (IIRC), or, if you only have one hole you can get a t-adapter, usually available at NAPA or Ace.

Our hosts may have replacement gauge senders - they are pricey and unreliable (in my view), and it is my understanding that electric gauges are less accurate than mechanical ones.

You can get a genuine looking Smiths mechanical gauge from various sources and plumb it up with few problems. I did and am very happy with it.

Just my $0.02......

Have fun!

Ted

Thanks, Ted

Our hosts do indeed have several types of oil pressure senders - not sure which one I would need but they are all quite expensive!

I need to do some more sleuthing.. thanks for your input.

MIke

TedW
09-11-2012, 03:16 PM
Thanks, Ted

Our hosts do indeed have several types of oil pressure senders - not sure which one I would need but they are all quite expensive!

I need to do some more sleuthing.. thanks for your input.

MIke

Here's the one you want:





SENDER - OIL PRESSURE AIR CORE TYPE

E-mail this product to a friend



Electrical, Dash, Sender Unit for Oil Pressure Gauge

Part#: RNA706
Price: $144.08


Quantity:

emmotto
09-11-2012, 04:08 PM
Here's the one you want:

SENDER - OIL PRESSURE AIR CORE TYPE
Electrical, Dash, Sender Unit for Oil Pressure Gauge
Part#: RNA706
Price: $144.08



Thanks again! Yes, that's the one I suspected (although there is a S2a one listed at twice that price!). No negative reflection on RN - I guess my comment about it being expensive is looking at it relative to a non-LR specific pressure transducer (sender) at about $12.

I've lived thru this before when I owned an airplane. The MAP (Manifold Pressure) transducer for my particular airplane started out costing about $250, then when the factory switched to a different display type (from digital/analog display to glass cockpit screens) the cost from the xducer mfr rose to about $600 because the airframe mfr was no longer ordering them in batches for production runs, then up and up and up until it's my understanding that they now cost approx $1800 - $2000 if you can get one! And airplanes have a Minimum Equipment List - without which you can't operate! At least with the Landy I can just drive the thing and assume that if it runs and doesn't blow up, I have adequate oil pressure!

Mike