restoring / rebuilding a roof-side

[emmotto]

Anyone have any tips for restoring an 88 roof side (with sliding window)?

I have just snagged a perfect NOS, never even been painted roof-side. But I only got 1. So I still need to work on the other side which is pretty grungy but all there.

Any tips for disassembly/reassembly? At quick glance it looks like the pieces that hold in the sliding windows are riveted in place. Does that mean I have to drill out the rivets and replace?

Also - my hard top has a irregular shaped 2-3" hole in the front right (facing fwd from the rear) corner - it looks like something ripped out the matching 1" hole on the opposite corner. Maybe PO had some lights there? Anyway - is there a best practice way to repair this? Aluminum patch riveted on with some sealer underneath?

Mike

69 Series IIa 88

[o2batsea]

I don't drill the rivets, I use a sharp wood chisel on the back side (so you don't gouge the outer finished side) and knock the end off. usually that does the trick. That said, if you can avoid taking the rivets out, all the better. If I recall the sliding window lives in a galvanized trough that is held in place with a couple of screws. If the glass channel comes out, then you are golden. If, like most windows, the channel is a crumbling mess then you will have to carefully get to each screw and go thru the adventure of removing it.
The other fun is the rubber seals. The bottom one usually comes out OK, but the top one is glued in and a real PITA to get it all out.

For the holes, glue in a patch from underneath using epoxy.

[emmotto]

I don't drill the rivets, I use a sharp wood chisel on the back side (so you don't gouge the outer finished side) and knock the end off. usually that does the trick. That said, if you can avoid taking the rivets out, all the better. If I recall the sliding window lives in a galvanized trough that is held in place with a couple of screws. If the glass channel comes out, then you are golden. If, like most windows, the channel is a crumbling mess then you will have to carefully get to each screw and go thru the adventure of removing it.
The other fun is the rubber seals. The bottom one usually comes out OK, but the top one is glued in and a real PITA to get it all out.

For the holes, glue in a patch from underneath using epoxy.

Thanks, yes - I took a closer look at it today and it looks like if I want to spend some time with masking tape I can do this without removing any rivets. It looked easier that it did at first glance. We'll see...

Thanks

Mike

[TeriAnn]

Any tips for disassembly/reassembly? At quick glance it looks like the pieces that hold in the sliding windows are riveted in place. Does that mean I have to drill out the rivets and replace?


I guess there is where I usually come in and say I have a how-to web page covering channel and window replacement for the sliding glass rear side windows (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LRsideWindow.htm).

Hopefully it will help you with your project.

[emmotto]

I guess there is where I usually come in and say I have a how-to web page covering channel and window replacement for the sliding glass rear side windows (http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LRsideWindow.htm).

Hopefully it will help you with your project.

Unbelievably AWESOME! Thankyou!

One question - I noticed that you have insulated the underside of the roof - is that an interference fit? Or does the insulation you used have some adhesive on the back?

Mike

[o2batsea]

My rapidly diminishing memory has returned enough to say that the galvy drip tray is held in with a couple bolts, but there is an aluminum trim lip on the outside that is indeed held in place with the screws that hold the channel in place (what a dirty trick!)
I am not a fan of silicone RTV in any way except to seal the corners of V8 engine valleys. I much prefer the use of stainless screws instead. They hold well, are easy to remove and leave no mess.
There is a stainless steel channel available but I just don't like the look of it. I'd rather do the channels every 4-5 years than use something I hated.

[TeriAnn]

Unbelievably AWESOME! Thankyou!

Replacing the rear side sliding window channels is a project where the workshop manual is worse than confusing. Having replaced them a few times over the decades I decided to document the process last time I did it.


One question - I noticed that you have insulated the underside of the roof - is that an interference fit? Or does the insulation you used have some adhesive on the back?


I insulated the entire interior of my truck with bubble wrap insulation. It is basically bubble wrap with heavy aluminum foil bonded to each side. It is available at most hardware stores. It is easily cut, bends easily and the stuff actually makes a big difference for both thermal insulation and eliminating sound echos for very little money. A little cutting, slather on contact cement and stick on.

There is nothing to hold moisture against the body and be a rust source like fibre insulation. It doesn't start turning into powder like old foam insulation.

I have it on the underside of my front floors and 4 layers on the gearbox tunnel to reduce sound. One layer on top & 3 layers glued to the underside. Grease, mud, being submerged in water crossings do not harm the stuff. I've had it installed since 1997 and it looks very close to new. Even on the underside.

I have a Dormobile lifting roof so can only insulate the curved part. I used the bubble wrap insulation, and a thin flexible sheet of plastic over which I glued a layer of Naugahyde.

On the sides of my hard top I have a thin sheet of plywood with interior fabric glued on. It adds additional insulation over the bubble wrap insulation and gives the interior a finished look below the headliner.

I really do not have a picture showing the finished roof interior sides. You can sorta see it though from these two pictures showing the rear interior of my truck.

7112 7113