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View Full Version : Help with clutch - 1965 Series 2a



nantley79
09-24-2012, 02:19 PM
So I bought this rig a few months ago knowing it had clutch problems. It was advertised as a bad slave cylinder. When I received it, the tranny was in nuetral, the clutch pedal would go all the way to the floor without pressure.

I inspected the bad slave cylinder and found that the plunger had become jambed open and the push rod bent from someone trying to push the clutch after it became stuck.

I replaced the slave cylinder & master cylinder & all hydraulic lines from the reservoir to the master to the slave.

When I try and bleed the system, the pressure from the clutch pedal pushes out the plunger in the slave cylinder normally. After that, it stays in the "out" or "down" position and does not return. The linkage from the clutch does not put pressure on it so it just stays in the "out" position. The pedal eventually becomes very stiff until I leave it alone for a minute or so.

Appears I have good flow through the system - I first thought I had picked up some dirt particles and clogged an orifice in the slave.

Is there supposed to be "up" pressure on the clutch linkage pushing up on the slave cylinder?

Hope someone can help.

Thanks!

Nate from Colorado

artpeck
09-24-2012, 02:45 PM
If I am understanding your question correctly it sounds like the pedal isn't returning after being depressed. At least on my series I and III and defender there are pretty aggressive returns springs on the clutch pedal. Do you have those attached? Those provide the "up" pressure.

nantley79
09-24-2012, 02:53 PM
The clutch pedal has the return spring attached - I presume it is the original. The clutch pedal operates normally.

o2batsea
09-24-2012, 02:54 PM
Up pressure would primarily be coming from the clutch pressure plate springs, secondarily from a coil spring attached to the pedal and the bulkhead inside the footwell. The pedal pivot shaft and bushings may be jacked up.

artpeck
09-24-2012, 02:56 PM
Beat me to it. If the springs are properly attached it is likely in the linkage and pivots. There really shouldnt be any resistance to returning to up farther down the system.

nantley79
09-24-2012, 03:52 PM
I think I may have a pressure plate issue....

I can manually activate the clutch linkage when the slave is not attached to the vehicle. I can push the linkage to the up position and then pull it down to the down position. It doesn't take much strength to do this.

Just to test my theory, I put the car in gear, pushed the linkage to the "up" position (which should be same as clutch disengaged) and the car rolls freely across the floor. I tried it with the linkage in the down position and got the same results. The clutch seems to be stuck in the "disengaged" position, putting the car in constant nuetral.

Any ideas?

artpeck
09-24-2012, 04:07 PM
I could speculate but not having had to open the clutch it would be only that. Someone who has been in would have better knowledge. Good luck.

nantley79
09-24-2012, 10:56 PM
Update: I can manually operate the clutch linkage to engage and disengage the clutch. I expect there to be some "backpressure" from the pressure plate that will engage the clutch once the pedal is withdrawn. But there is no such pressure, the slave cylinder stays in the "disengaged" position.

Should the pressure plate act on the push rod to push fluid back to the master cylinder?

i can't figure this one out. Unfortunately its my first time with a clutch issue..... Please help!

o2batsea
09-25-2012, 05:33 AM
There's no way for us to do any more diagnosis. You have a truck with what is at the very least a questionable clutch. Unless you know for sure that it was recently replaced, I would say that you should. If it were me in your place I would start taking out the seat box and floors in preparation for splitting the bell housing from the engine. Might as well get it done now rather than later.

slorocco
09-25-2012, 06:53 AM
I have to agree with 02batsea. The pressure plate spring is very strong and should push the slave cylinder right back out as soon as you let go of the pedal. If that's not happening and you have already re-worked the hydraulics then your problem is most likely in the clutch itself.

Les Parker
09-25-2012, 09:36 AM
A recent event similar to this had me perplexed.

It turned out the centre of the clutch drive plate had broken away the outer part of the friction disc.

Could be this is the issue.

Other than sliding the gearbox out and having a "gander" at the cover/plate, I cannot suggest much more than has been discussed above.

nantley79
09-25-2012, 12:06 PM
Thanks everyone for your input. Even though you guys can't give the the answer, you've reassured me that I'm taking the right course.

I'll check the pressure plate and let you guys know. Won't have time for quite some time, but I'll post here with my findings. Thanks for all the help!