My bulkhead restoration saga

[Cevan]

So I just bought a collection of parts that I hope to transform into an operational IIa. My plan is to galvanize the chassis and cappings, and then start reassembly with any part either being refurbished or replaced. I am looking for a nice set of IIa or III wings.

So onto the bulkhead. It was obvious before sandblasting that the bottom half of each door post and the footwells would need replacing. Above the footwell, everything looks rust and dent free.

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/IMG_1483-1.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/IMG_1468-1.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/IMG_1493-1.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/IMG_1503-1.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/IMG_1507-1.jpg

[Cevan]

The bulkhead is quite a complex piece to restore. We spent a long time just figuring out what to cut and how the replacement panels would fit.

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0003.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0004.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0006.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0010.jpg

[Cevan]

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0008.jpg

All tacked up:

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0013.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0011.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0016.jpg

[ArlowCT]

Looking real nice! Even though mine was not as bad it makes me wish I had done the same when it was out of the truck. Keep up the good work.

[o2batsea]

If you're going to use boosted brakes be sure to cut the opening in the footwell before you go to galvy.
Don't worry too much about the nut plates. I found that a little heat plus a little wiggling will free them up, and you can chase the threads with a tap.
Also, if you grind off the lip on the door pillars, you can use one piece Defender push-on door seals.

[Cevan]

If you're going to use boosted brakes be sure to cut the opening in the footwell before you go to galvy.
Don't worry too much about the nut plates. I found that a little heat plus a little wiggling will free them up, and you can chase the threads with a tap.
Also, if you grind off the lip on the door pillars, you can use one piece Defender push-on door seals.


I haven't really thought about door seals. I know the OEM one are $$$$ and I'm guessing involve riveting them in place. What is the advantage of the Defender seals? Is it that they just push on? I saw these (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3469/=jtxr91) seals at McMaster-Carr that someone here used.

On the bulkhead, I'm not going to galvanize it. It will get a good coat of a 2k epoxy primer and then color.

Not sure about the brakes yet (dual circuit/boosted vs. stock single circuit). I've got IIA fenders, which I'm not sure if they need modifying in order to accomodate the master cylinder and brake booster. Although I am on the hunt for some nice fenders, either IIA or III. What exactly needs to be cut on the footwell? There are already to opening for the brake and clutch boxes.

[albersj51]

I haven't really thought about door seals. I know the OEM one are $$$$ and I'm guessing involve riveting them in place. What is the advantage of the Defender seals? Is it that they just push on? I saw these (http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3469/=jtxr91) seals at McMaster-Carr that someone here used.

On the bulkhead, I'm not going to galvanize it. It will get a good coat of a 2k epoxy primer and then color.

Not sure about the brakes yet (dual circuit/boosted vs. stock single circuit). I've got IIA fenders, which I'm not sure if they need modifying in order to accomodate the master cylinder and brake booster. Although I am on the hunt for some nice fenders, either IIA or III. What exactly needs to be cut on the footwell? There are already to opening for the brake and clutch boxes.

The brake pedal opening in the bulkhead needs to be widened slightly and elongated. If its a IIA fender, it will need to be cut to allow for the booster. An SIII fender shouldnt need the cut. Here are some links about the conversion. http://aluminumfriend.blogspot.com/2007_01_01_archive.html

http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/dual_brake_conv.htm

Good luck!

[o2batsea]

On the bulkhead, I'm not going to galvanize it. It will get a good coat of a 2k epoxy primer and then color.

Highly recommend that you rethink that. The first 250lbs is usually $250. That's a lot of rover parts that get dipped for pretty cheap.
After galvy, then do the epoxy primer.

[Cevan]

Highly recommend that you rethink that. The first 250lbs is usually $250. That's a lot of rover parts that get dipped for pretty cheap.
After galvy, then do the epoxy primer.

Painting a galvanized surface isn't as easy as it sounds. If you don't paint it within 48 hours, the prep changes and I'm no expert painter. I think it also depends on what type of zinc is used. I'll ask the guy I talked with about what he thinks. I'd like to hear from someone who's painted one and how it's holding up.

[albersj51]

I galvanized mine and painted it. That was about 8-9 months ago and its holding up very well. I painted it about 3-4 months after having it dipped. To prep it, I washed it well with a TSP solution to clean it, and then hit it with a diluted phosphoric acid solution on a sponge (not a spray gun where it could get places and I couldn't remove it) to etch it. Given that I live in the south, galvanizing it was overkill, but I wanted to be sure I didn't have to replace the darn thing again!

Here is a link to my rebuild thread on another forum. This page begins my galvanizing process. Perhaps you'll find some useful info in there.

http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/showthread.php?280-My-rebuild/page8

Jason

[o2batsea]

There's a lot of misinformation regarding painting galv.
Bottom line on it is that it doesn't really matter how long after dip you wait to paint it. As long as you use a 2 part epoxy primer you can paint any time and you don't need to do any prep as long as there is no wax or oil on the metal.
You can't use allkyd type primers like rustoleum.

[I Leak Oil]

Cevan, not galvanizing isn't the end of the world. If you're on the fence about painting it contact Mercedesrover (here or more likely on the GnR board). Jim will steer you straight on painting it....that's his buisiness.

[Cevan]

Update: Passenger side mocked up. It was a lot easier after already doing the driver's side. I think I have cut out about 10 lbs of metal out of this bulkhead.

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0035.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0036.jpg


Bob the welder.

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0039.jpg


Partially mocked up. We spent a little time trying to get the doors, bulkhead and fenders adjusted. Decided to throw the seatbox and floors in. Overall, I'm pretty happy with results.

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0043.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0044.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0047.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/DSCN0050.jpg

[Cevan]

Quick update. Finished the welding and grinding on the bulkhead. My friend has a III so I was able to measure and cut the correct opening for the brake tower.

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/DSCN0178.jpg


Decided to galvanize it. Drove out to Duncan Galvanizing last Friday with a bunch of parts. Pretty happy with how it all came out.

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/IMG_1916.jpg

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad90/Cevan65/1969%20Land%20Rover%20Series%20IIA/IMG_1923.jpg

[jac04]

Drove out to Duncan Galvanizing last Friday with a bunch of parts. Pretty happy with how it all came out.
Did they galvanize it while you waited? The finish looks nice, any issues with slag or finish damage? Did you have a standard hot dip or did you have to ask for an architectural finish?

[o2batsea]

Take your MAPP torch and your air blow gun and heat up the vent pin hinges until the zinc melts. Quick quick quick put the blow gun to the pin hole and blast as much zinc out as you can. Ditto the captive nuts on the dash. I made the mistake of failing to check whether I had gotten all the zinc out and had to spend some quality time with a small rat tail file cleaning out those hinges after it was all painted. You can also use the torch to loosen the captive nuts. Run a 5/16th-20 tap thru them to clean up the threads. The captive nuts on the dash are 10-32.
I used Awl Grip 545 epoxy primer on both the chassis and bulkhead. Chassis I painted satin black with Interlux Perfection and the shop painted the BH limestone.

PS looks like you forgot to drill for the throttle cross shaft mounts, yes?

[Cevan]

Take your MAPP torch and your air blow gun and heat up the vent pin hinges until the zinc melts. Quick quick quick put the blow gun to the pin hole and blast as much zinc out as you can. Ditto the captive nuts on the dash. I made the mistake of failing to check whether I had gotten all the zinc out and had to spend some quality time with a small rat tail file cleaning out those hinges after it was all painted. You can also use the torch to loosen the captive nuts. Run a 5/16th-20 tap thru them to clean up the threads. The captive nuts on the dash are 10-32.
I used Awl Grip 545 epoxy primer on both the chassis and bulkhead. Chassis I painted satin black with Interlux Perfection and the shop painted the BH limestone.

PS looks like you forgot to drill for the throttle cross shaft mounts, yes?

Cross shaft mount holes are there.

Not sure about paint yet. Probably a Dupont epoxy primer b/c I've used it before. I've got all the threads clean on the bulkhead but for the ones for the center gauge panel. I forgot to put bolts in there. Any idea what size these are?

[o2batsea]

I've got all the threads clean on the bulkhead but for the ones for the center gauge panel. I forgot to put bolts in there. Any idea what size these are?

See above:
The captive nuts on the dash are 10-32.

[Cevan]

See above:
The captive nuts on the dash are 10-32.

Ahh, yes. Thanks.

I put new bump stops and GBR frame bushing in. Nice to install parts for a change, rather than disassemble, and clean clean clean.

[o2batsea]

If you have a source for the pan head 10-32 slotted, I'm all ears.

[Cevan]

If you have a source for the pan head 10-32 slotted, I'm all ears.

I guess I will use whatever stainless 10-32 bolts I have, maybe allen head.