Early IIA ignition switch

[cgalpin]

Mine died on my '63 (early IIA, suffix B). Our hosts show this as NLA - any idea what is an equivalent replacement?

Thanks,
charles

[jac04]

Still shows available as a Proline part:
http://www.roversnorth.com/p-4874-starter-switch-early-iia.aspx

If you want Genuine, lrsereis.com shows it available:
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/10867/RTC4827-SERIES-1-STARTER-SWITCH.html?search=starter%20switch&page=1

[albersj51]

You sure its dead? A couple of weeks ago mine started acting up, I cleaned it up, regreased it, and it works like a champ. It is a VERY simple switch.

[cgalpin]

Hi guys

First, it's the combination ignition switch behind the key with the integrated headlight switch, not the starter button. I don't have a picture handy but will post one tonight.

I will take a look at dismantling it and seeing if it can be salvaged, but I'll describe the symptoms. First it started to feel like the whole assembly was loose recently, although I am not sure if this is related. But yesterday the truck stalled shortly after starting, started right back up, then died about a mile or so later. I could crank the starter, but otherwise no lights on the dash or spark. I tried a few things but had no tools and it was getting dark so got a tow home. But later everything was magically working again until I went for a test drive and it dies again. I found that just turning off the headlights allowed the ignition portion to start working again a few minutes later, and if I turned the headlights back on, within seconds it would lose power again. So I think the headlight portion is generating heat and causing a problem maybe.

[o2batsea]

They're pretty easy to take apart. A good clean out will help. No way it's dead. Wiring with all the insulation eaten off, I'd believe that...

[albersj51]

Yup, that's what I am referring to, the early combo switch, not the button/solenoid.

Are you running relays for your headlamps? If not, I would recommend you do that to keep the current load off of the switch as it will, at some point, kill it. It sounds like its getting intermittent contact, which could be due to dirty/corroded contacts.

When you pull it out, flip it over where the terminals are. You'll see 3 indentations where 3 small metal tabs are bent in to secure the switch to the casing. bend those out and the entire thing should pull right out. I got some CRC contact cleaner and cleaned the heck out of it with Q-tip's until the contacts were nice, clean and had a shine to them. I then used dielectric grease as the inside lube (for the key and the headlamp switch). slide it back in (I made note of its orientation before removal). There is a disc looking thing that has to go in a specific way (look into the casing and you'll see the indentations that match the tabs on this disc.

Good luck!

Jason

[cgalpin]

Thanks I'll give that a try. If not, Dave points out they have the switch part - RNC747

[cgalpin]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I went ahead and pulled it this evening and found the problem and got it all fixed up. You were right that it's a pretty simple device, and there were no signs of melting or anything - just mechanical wear. There were three things that could have been issues although I suspect it was just #1

This is the switch in question: 7237

1. The center/main terminal was loose. I crimped the rivet with a punch and it tightened right up
2. There is groove worn in the rivets that make up the key turn contacts. I did nothing about this, so we'll see if this lasts

7239

3. The main ring that makes the contacts for the lights was flattened out a bit. I gently bent it back to shape.

Here are some pictures of disasembly

7240 7241 7242 7243 7244

It looks like there is an 8 picture limit per post. Will follow this up with a couple more in the next post,

[cgalpin]

One thing worth noting is that there is a little spring in one of the two holes in the side of the assembly with a little adjustment screw. A ball bearing sits on the spring and along with ridges in the key tumbler housing gives the resistance and fixed points as you turn the lights on/off. You can adjust the pressure using the set screw, but you can only do this with the housing 80% assembled as you have to rotate the outer ring to the right position to access the screw and you can't do it when in it's final position which has a notch to align it. I only figured this out after assembling it so I had to open it again to set it.

7245 7246

I guess I forgot to take some final pictures, but it looks just like it did before but with cleaner contacts :)

Thanks again for the help with this. I took a short test drive but hopefully it will prove itself over the next few days of driving.

charles