stripping paint from a 68 2A 109. just the stripping and nothing but the stripping

[podelson]

I'm smart enough to know that I'm not smart enough to paint both the interior and the exterior back to its original limestone from its current white?
But I figure I can save the cost of stripping both the white exterior and the spray painted black interior.
What is the best way to get it stripped down and again the priming, painting etc will be done by pros
Wow "stripping","pros", pretty exciting first post
Ah and the same goes for the black painted on to the frames of the exterior front window and sides that are usually not painted.
Thanks in advance

[Revtor]

I'd vote for removing the panels and using chemical stripper and plastic scrapers. Once you're protected (mask, glasses, disposable tyvek suit) the job isn't bad at all. Spray the stripper on it and then lay a layer of newspaper on the panels to slow the evaporation, giving the chem more time to eat.


Take as much trim off as possible so the paint can be shot onto as much of the truck as possible. Lights, hinges, brackets etc should all come off if possible. post before/after pics!
~Steve

[podelson]

Would you reccomend that CitrusStrip?
the trim needs to be stripped too so I planned on taking that off as well as all things that can be taken off but still be driven over to get painted
Ideally, and please let me know how wrong I am, I would like to do the interior stripping and repairs first, then bring it in to have all bulkhead issues addressed and then everything inside painted by a local Rover shop.
After that I can re-install seats, seat belts etc.
My biggest concern is that the frame needs to be replaced and since budget wise that won't happen for six months I don't want to start messing with the exterior until then
Again all input is welcome and appreciated

[nantley79]

I'm an amature, but I would suggest the following steps:
1. Disassemble the entire rover
2. Replace frame & repair bulkhead
3. send all panels off to be stripped & painted
4. Assemble new frame, repaired bulkhead, new electrical, new hydraulics
5. Assemble overhauled engine, overhaulded tranny, overhauled axles & diffs
6. Install painted body panels & all remaining components

If you try and paint the interior and exterior before you replace the frame & repair the bulkhead, you will probably run into a lot of problems along the way. For example, I needed to replace a slave cylinder in my SIIA. I now have the left wing off, all the floors out, seat box out, and still haven't solved my problem. I quickly found out that I am wasting my time trying to fix the minor stuff to get it going. I will be money ahead if I just start over from the frame up.

good luck, post some photos of your progress!

[SafeAirOne]

I've used citrus stripper and non citrus-based chemical strippers with mixed results. It does a pretty good job on pieces that were not alodined before factory painting, but a lousy job on panels that were alodined then had the factory paint applied. The factory paint holds on to alodined aluminum for dear life and though it could be removed after several applications of stripper, it took LOTS and LOTS of elbow grease.

I'd do what I could with chemical strippers then maybe finish up any tough areas with mechanical stripping, though I don't have any experience having stuff media blasted.

[podelson]

Thank you all. Basically I am trying to do the grunt work myself to save labor cost. I'm hesitant to start taking off exterior panels because she drives, thus the reason I plan on stripping, cleaning the interior first.

[o2batsea]

For the aluminum skins, I would say that unless the paint is horribly checked or peeling that you don't strip it. If it is adhering well, then sanding it is preferred, then a high build primer followed by your top coats.
Where you should really spend the money is on having the steel parts chemically stripped. This will get all the rust on the inside of the boxed areas. They will come out as clean steel which you can then have galvanized.
The interior is supposed to be body color, not black. Maybe a previous owner did that.
Having it painted professionally is a good idea.

[podelson]

Somewhere along the line she was spray painted black on the inside so cleaning that up is step one for me after the wire harness is done ( so I can drive her a bit)
Good to now on the skins thank you!
Eventually she is getting a new galvanized frame and bulkhead, although with ECR no longer doing them I will be sure to be asking where in the future.
That and the pros and cons of putting a 6 cylinder back into her like she had initially had instead of the 4 she has now...

[o2batsea]

Somewhere along the line she was spray painted black on the inside so cleaning that up is step one for me after the wire harness is done ( so I can drive her a bit)
Good to now on the skins thank you!
Eventually she is getting a new galvanized frame and bulkhead, although with ECR no longer doing them I will be sure to be asking where in the future.
That and the pros and cons of putting a 6 cylinder back into her like she had initially had instead of the 4 she has now...

Matt Browne (http://www.overlandengineering.com/) can take care of your chassis and bulkhead, but he has about 6-8 months lead time. If you are at all considering a frame swap, give him a call so you can get on the list. He is just over the line in ME. If you have a NADA 6 truck with the bulkhead, you can fit a wide range of engines including a 4.6 V8

[podelson]

that is fantastic to know thank you! I'll get in touch with him this week.
as far as the engine I would love to get back to as original as I can

[busboy]

I did a 68 2a 109 and MAN was that paint on there, I didn't strip the roof. My plan was to blast the whole thing but the aluminum panels cannot take any heat so blasting is out. I tried a couple of strippers but in the end had to buy AIRCRAFT stripper and even that took a few applications on some sections. The finished truck looked great after I prepped, primed and painted it and well worth the time and effort to remove all the junk layers. The stripper I used said "aircraft" stripper on the one gallon jugs I used that I got from an auto body supply store, not cheap and I went through quite a few.

[podelson]

I figure either the citrus and or the aircraft stripper won't be cheap but compared to either the 72.00 per hour in VT or 96.00 in Boston the rover restorers want to charge i'll be saving a few bucks...to then dump into it somewhere else..

[ArlowCT]

From what I hear soda blasting will strip the paint but not build up so much heat to warp the panels. We have a local place here that I have not tried yet but I hear the results are fantastic. I guess they use baking soda and you can buy the setup yourself too for about the same as a sand blaster. It may be worth looking into.

[SafeAirOne]

Eventually she is getting a new galvanized frame and bulkhead, although with ECR no longer doing them I will be sure to be asking where in the future.


That and the pros and cons of putting a 6 cylinder back into her like she had initially had instead of the 4 she has now...

You're trying to save money by stripping the paint off yourself, but would get ECR to do a chassis swap?? Hmm...



As for the common 4 or rare 6 question--Let this thread be your guide: http://forums.roversnorth.com/showthread.php?14222-2-6-water-pump-troubles

[podelson]

Oh god i would not pay ECR money, they were just one of the few I knew who did it, but they are no longer in "the series business" according to them. I think they are making enough off fixing up 110s for Copley to sell to the nantucket hamptons crowd

You're trying to save money by stripping the paint off yourself, but would get ECR to do a chassis swap?? Hmm...



As for the common 4 or rare 6 question--Let this thread be your guide: http://forums.roversnorth.com/showthread.php?14222-2-6-water-pump-troubles