Hub problem

[gogo34]

Guys, it appears that a couple of the holes that hold the wheel lugs on my right front hub (1966 SIIa) have become stripped. I'm not quite sure how but, for whatever reason, I can't get the lugs to stay in the hole. It's too loose. Do I need to replace the hub or has anyone had success making the holes larger and using a larger lug and the associated nut? Finding a hub has been a challenge.

[busboy]

I must admit I am also waiting to see any replies to this. I have in the past used a helicoil and reinstalled the original stud but because I use a thicker rim I would like a longer stud. I removed a rear one and have had no luck at all finding a slightly longer one of ANY kind metric or not. As the nuts are BSF at least on mine almost anything I find will not be BSF but I could live with that and change all the nuts, I just have not been able to find the correct length and diameter or even close in anything.

[leafsprung]

Lazy way - you can use press in studs from a late SIIA they are the same thread form as the earlier screw in style - RN probably has these. They may also have new hubs. If they can not help you I probably can.

[busboy]

Lazy way - you can use press in studs from a late SIIA they are the same thread form as the earlier screw in style - RN probably has these. They may also have new hubs. If they can not help you I probably can.

I didn't think the 2a came any later than mine, lol it's a 71 and still has screw in type. All the series3 press in type are too short and if I go longer they are much too long and will require hub removal. I have tried all the truck and trailer places also, I need about 1/4 inch longer thread.

[I Leak Oil]

Relative to gogo34 though he can probably use the press in style just fine. Not a bad idea to do away with the screw in studs anyway, moves you into the 70's at least....

[gogo34]

Relative to gogo34 though he can probably use the press in style just fine. Not a bad idea to do away with the screw in studs anyway, moves you into the 70's at least....
Wow! It sounds like that may be a solution. What does it take to install the press in style? Special equipment, take the hub off, etc?

[busboy]

You just drill to the core dimension of the spline stick the stud in the hole and use a nut to pull the stud down tight, you will have to recheck the torque a few time to ensure it ends up seated all the way. I don't think you can get BSF threaded studs that pull in though so you will have one odd one if all your other ones are BSF.

[BGreen]

Helped a neighbor in Yorkshire fix a loose stud on a series II. We took out the old stud, drilled out the hole to a clean size that took a standard fine tapered pipe thread size, tapped the hole. Measured thickness of the plate......took that info, the old stud, and the stud from a lorry to his local machine shop. We machined the lorry stud so it was stepped. The larger step, its length just under thickness of the plate, was run through a die to cut the fine tapered pipe threads needed for the plate. The thinner step was cut with a die to the proper threads for the lug nut. The large tapered end was screwed in to the plate and tightened. The wheel was installed and the only difference in looks was that the new stud was not rusted like the other 4. That how we did it.

[leafsprung]

Part number is 561886 - 9/16 BSF x1.21/32 press in stud

Busboy - this is the press in late SIIA alternative to the thread in type you have.

-cheers
-Ike

[Les Parker]

RN stocks that stud, # PLC405 @ $2.72 each.
Currently we have good stock.
It does mean removing the hub, though. Still, a perfect time to repack the bearings and check the hub oil seal, anyway.

2p.

[busboy]

Part number is 561886 - 9/16 BSF x1.21/32 press in stud

Busboy - this is the press in late SIIA alternative to the thread in type you have.

-cheers -Ike

Les Parker... RN stocks that stud, # PLC405 @ $2.72 each.
Currently we have good stock.
It does mean removing the hub, though. Still, a perfect time to repack the bearings and check the hub oil seal, anyway.


Thank you both for your reply, after breaking out the vernier those two numbers seem the same at 1 21/32 (1.656) INCLUDING the head so the threaded portion is actually shorter than the screw in type stud which might work for factory rims but I need a pull in that has a threaded portion 0.150 longer than the original thread in ones so 1.8 inches minimum NOT including the head.

[leafsprung]

That info was mostly for gogo to fix his hub without replacing it but also to let you know that there was in fact a press in stud made for late SIIA. Regarding your need for a longer stud - you may have to make some studs if you want BSF. If you cant manage it - I may be able to make some for you. Some things you might consider - 1) Use metric studs, there is a defender HD wheel stud FRC7577 which is 60mm with the head (2.36 in) 2) convert to disc brakes - this will allow you to use just a bit more of the stud as you will have no drum

[busboy]

I have tried that FRC7577 it would be too long but I could cut it or remove the hubs to install them, I just thought there HAS to be a pull in stud out there the correct length and diameter not taking into account the thread but I have been unable to find one so far. The only ones suitable have too much of an unthreaded shank and are way too long. I don't want to custom make something as it presents too much of a problem for getting a replacement quickly. I had thought about converting the front to discs but not all 4 that is something to chew on. I had also thought about using the 561886 ones and counter boring the back face of the hub 150 thou, I'm sure the hubs could take it. If the hubs were aluminum I could use a back spot face to avoid pulling the hubs but that wouldn't work in this case. The wheel stud conversion project is still there just on hold for now.

[I Leak Oil]

Wow! It sounds like that may be a solution. What does it take to install the press in style? Special equipment, take the hub off, etc?

It depends on your competency level but for most it's probably easiest to remove the hub. You drill out the existing hole to the root diameter of the splines on the new studs. You can hand drill them I suppose or you can put them in a drill press\bridgeport and do it that way. Get a nice rigid, spuare setup and you won't have any problems. The rims are lugcentric so you need to make sure you're on center to the existing threaded hole or you may end up with excessive runout of the rim or lug nuts that fight one another when tightened.
Once the holes are drilled out you can press them in or draw them in using a spacer (washers) and a lug nut. I prefer to use the flat side of the lug nut so it doesn't distort the spacer or damage the nut.

FWIW I like the SIII lug nuts and studs and would do them all at somepoint if I were you.

[gogo34]

It depends on your competency level but for most it's probably easiest to remove the hub. You drill out the existing hole to the root diameter of the splines on the new studs. You can hand drill them I suppose or you can put them in a drill press\bridgeport and do it that way. Get a nice rigid, spuare setup and you won't have any problems. The rims are lugcentric so you need to make sure you're on center to the existing threaded hole or you may end up with excessive runout of the rim or lug nuts that fight one another when tightened.
Once the holes are drilled out you can press them in or draw them in using a spacer (washers) and a lug nut. I prefer to use the flat side of the lug nut so it doesn't distort the spacer or damage the nut.

FWIW I like the SIII lug nuts and studs and would do them all at somepoint if I were you.

Thanks guys. I think I'll try the press in route. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[singingcamel]

I've done this alot over the years , the replacement studs are shorter. you can buy these thru our host. Yes you will need to remove the hub to do it properly, the replacment stud willl have threads , splines and the shoulder. I over drill the hub to match the opposite end ( the flatten end, looks like a nail head) by about 1/4 inch at the most ,press it in to match the correct length, and tack it with a welder.