Series IIA Fuel Filter

[fbnksrover]

Just figured out that my Series IIA does not have a fuel filter in the sediment bowl. Anyone know if that filter can be purchased at a local auto store? (NAPA, O' Reilly)

[stomper]

There is not supposed to be one in there.

[busboy]

There is not supposed to be one in there.

Yeh I don't have one.

[I Leak Oil]

Yup, there is no filter in the bowl itself. The heavier debris just settles out in it. If you don't already have one get an in line filter. Most people go with the inexpensive disposable type.

[PavementEnds]

Or do you mean the sediment screen (in pic below)? Available online from vendors but I personally have not seen these in the usual auto parts stores but then never asked.
SCREEN - FUEL PUMP BOWL 2.25L - SERIES IIA & III Model # RNC145:https://c7743.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/Images/large/RNC145.jpg

[antichrist]

Yup, the only thing in there is the wire mesh screen. No idea what an "official" one costs, but Michael's craft store sells fine wire mesh I think. I may have seen it in Hobby Lobby.

[fbnksrover]

Thanks for the responses. Took me day and a half to figure out it's just a wire mesh.

Now on to other issues. I noticed the heater and demister blow out air, but it is not hot. Any suggestions on what to pull apart and check?

[stomper]

Check that the heater valve is operating under the bonnet and that it is open. If it is, take the heater matrix out of the heater box and have it boiled out at a radiator shop.

[SafeAirOne]

I noticed the heater and demister blow out air, but it is not hot. Any suggestions on what to pull apart and check?

In Fairbanks, I wouldn't have too high expectations regarding heater performance, even if everything is hunky-dory. I have to dress up in full winter gear (coats, hats, gloves, long-johns, etc.) just for the 30-degree daily commute to work here in NH.

For tepid air, make sure the hot water control valve works, like somebody mentioned. Also check to make sure the heater core air matrix isn't jammed up with squirrel dunnage, that the coolant passages aren't clogged in the heater core and that your blower's "high-speed" setting (and I use that term very loosely) works properly (though you DID mention that it's blowing air, which pretty much eliminates 2 of these things).

OH--also check to see if there's any coolant in the radiator.

[Jim-ME]

You may want to purchase a radiator muff that covers the grille to stop full flow cold air from going over the radiator. It also helps to run the warmest opening thermostat that you can find when it is cold. I believe it is 84 degrees C. I am running both the "hot" thermostat with a muff totally closed up, and a new heater core with a diesel and around town I do not get what you would call heat. Its only on the interstate that I think my theromstat actually opens. I have heard the the heater that our hosts sell is very good as is a Kodiak if you can find one. I have not gone either route at this point but the Kodiak in my first Rover did actually produce heat while the Smith's heater in my current Rover does not. You may want to think about upgrading your current heater. Before you do too much make sure your current setup is actually getting hot coolant thru it.
Jim
Jim

[busboy]

The engine is more than capable of producing enough heat with the correct thermostat even at -40C however at hiway speed and -20C or below I recommend a winter front but make sure it can be opened for milder conditions and you do actually open it or you can partially seize the engine, I know this for sure, lol. At these temps on the hiway the floor becomes super cooled and can draw the heat away very quickly so insulation on the floor is a must have for the winter. If the engine is producing the correct heat and you are not seeing it on the other side of the heater core then if the shut off valve is open all the way the core is plugged internally and disconnecting the hoses and back flushing it with a hose might do the trick or just replace it. For many years I had a second heater in the back for hiway travel and the engine could supply more than enough heat, I recently removed it as I didn't have the need for it anymore, seems we don't get the long extended periods of -30c and below I was used to seeing.

I made my winter front that fits over the 2a grill and attaches with the same 2 screws the badge does. 3 pieces of aluminum one large and 2 small to match the grill, the two side pieces can be folded over opening up either or both sides. I covered it in arctic vinyl so it stays supple and the vinyl is the hinge. I just have a small cabinet door catch to hold it open.