And the Saga Continues...the Muffler

[fbnksrover]

Okay, so as you can see from the photos, my muffler has split. I have no idea how that happened, but there it is. I am assuming that I need a new muffler with tailpipe assembly? Do I need any other pipes? How about the bracket(s)? Tail pipe hangers? It looks like the PO welded the pipes to some type of hanger. Any advice on that? Is this a do it yourself job, or do I need to drive it to the garage?

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These brackets don't look like the ones in the green book. The pipe from the left hand driver's side does not look like it's attached the way the green book illustrates. What am I about to get myself into?

[I Leak Oil]

None of that looks stock. What needs replacing depends on your mechanical ability and your willingness to search for parts that will work. If all the pipes are good leading up to the muffler then just look for a muffler that will fit in that space and make it work. Otherwise, you're probably better off just putting in a new system front to back.

Or just take it to a shop....

[o2batsea]

You can pay for all the hangers, rubber straps, nuts and bolts as well as the pipes and muffler and it will end up costing you a day's work at least. Or, you can go to a local shop and have a stainless steel system made for roughly the same money.
In my humble opinion the original Rover exhaust is shyte.

[SafeAirOne]

Before you have this happen to the new exhaust components, you might want to check to make sure your fuel/air mixture and valve & ignition timing are acceptable and that there are no exhaust leaks upstream. Your muffler has the classic appearance of being blown apart by a backfire through the exhaust system.

[cedryck]

I agree that that silencer has blown up because of built up exhaust gases in the can. If you are not familiar with setting the carb and timing have a qualified mechanic set it up before you fix your exhaust system. And I do agree that look less than stock, or oem parts, which is not a problem I have seen more homemade or muffler shop made systems on series trucks, not a big deal. Did you hear a large bang when driving it?

[I Leak Oil]

Your muffler has the classic appearance of being blown apart by a backfire through the exhaust system.

Or the old banana in the tailpipe trick....

[willincalgary]

Your muffler has the classic appearance of being blown apart by a backfire through the exhaust system.

What a great opportunity to see an exploded view of a muffler's inner workings! :)

[SafeAirOne]

Or the old banana in the tailpipe trick....

...a classic!

[fbnksrover]

I just went through the nutroll of replacing the distributor, spark plugs, wires, and setting the timing. I think the blow out was due to the initial failed attempts at resetting all of that, I just never noticed. I think I'm probably going to replace the entire system with a stock system. Any advice on Pro Line versus original parts? Also, where would I find instructions on replacing the exhaust system? Doesn't look too difficult, but that's the rookie in me talking.

[stomper]

If you can undo nuts, you can replace an exhaust system. there is nothing more than remove and replace. Get some PB Blaster and start spraying the studs on the exhaust manifold flange, buy some brass nuts to replace what you have on there when you reassemble the new exhaust, and use neversieze on the rest of the bolts as they hold up the hangers on the new system. Nothing to it.

[busboy]

You can get either LH or RH exit mufflers, I think the North American Landrovers came with a LH exit but the RH exit gives a better flow through and is worth the trouble of replacing the mount on the one side.

[rwollschlager]

also, I recommend going with mounts that have some flex or give in them. Having the pipe hard mounted to the frame can cause extra stress on the exhaust manifold leading to its premature and pain in the a$$ failure. The stock rubber mounts work, but I've never had the replacements last more than a few months. I used the same brackets but instead of the rubber I cut up an old tow strap, no problems after many hard miles.

-Rob

[cedryck]

Replacement is a sinch. Fit is up loose, all together and then tighten up proper. If your truck is like mine my manifold bolts are always coming loose, so check frequently.

[charo63]

I have been working on my exhaust as well today. Should be easy, but nothing ever is on a 50 year old vehicle. One bolt snapped off at the exhaust manifold, another won't tighten into the manifold (I suspect where the leak was coming from) and the other stud is stuck in the manifold. So - the big question for you more experienced guys - is my exhaust manifold shot, or can the studs be extracted and the threads be tapped to accept new studs?

[I Leak Oil]

As long as the manifold isn't cracked you should be able to helicoil it. Install new studs & brass nuts and you're good to go.

[Kiloengineer]

I hear what people are saying about the stock exhaust not being great, but I just bought a stock exhaust from AB on sale, less than 200 bucks, installed it in about an hour. Everything fit fine, went together easy and now I am all back to stock. Looks and sounds good too. If it lasts 5-8 years I will be happy.

[fbnksrover]

I bought the same system on sale at AB. It was en entire kit. Installed it yesterday afternoon. Anyone know if the flange on the front pipe that attaches to the manifold is supposed to sit flush with the manifold? Mine does not, and now I'm second guessing my handy work. Any advice before I rip out the front pipe and start over?

[busboy]

I bought the same system on sale at AB. It was en entire kit. Installed it yesterday afternoon. Anyone know if the flange on the front pipe that attaches to the manifold is supposed to sit flush with the manifold? Mine does not, and now I'm second guessing my handy work. Any advice before I rip out the front pipe and start over?
No does not sit flush and don't crank it hard all the way down as you'll flatten the pipe.

[Kiloengineer]

Agree the flange will not be flush, but should have the same gap all the way around the flange so there is equal pressure on the pipe flare.