Wanted Door Bottoms!

[tristanaldrich]

Good morning all

I am in the process of re-painting my IIA and have decided that both door bottoms are beyond saving, does anyone out there have a pair for sale within a reasonable distance of NYC?? before I have to fork out a small fortune to get new ones!! I can travel within reason

Thanx loads

Tristan

[Cutter]

In ct: http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/showthread.php?3468-New-series-door-bottoms-in-primer

[Les Parker]

In stock, ready to ship.

http://landroverparts.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLN341&type=0

Both LH and RH.

[o2batsea]

In ct: http://siteground237.com/~gunsandr/showthread.php?3468-New-series-door-bottoms-in-primer
Those are Series 3 and don't work on a 2A
If you want genuine 2A, you are pretty much out of luck. I spent all last summer scrounging and I came up goose egg. They just don't exist. Can yours be repaired?

[o2batsea]

In stock, ready to ship.

http://landroverparts.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLN341&type=0

Both LH and RH.

Reproduction.

[SafeAirOne]

Those are Series 3 and don't work on a 2A

Just trying to think what the difference is between a IIA and III doorshell...

[EDIT] Nevermind...It's the limiter.

[Les Parker]

Well, I beg to differ. The difference between IIa and III is the door check. On the IIa the slider part is on the dashboard and the Series III on the door. Anyone studying the attached link would clearly see that these are correct for the IIa. Yes, they are aftermarket, we have sold many of both these and the Series III and thus far all customers have been happy with the non-rusty result.

2p

[tristanaldrich]

the skins underneath the hinges are corroded through to the frame not 100% I can save them!!

[o2batsea]

Les the door pockets for the latches are different shape and while the early latches may work on S3 doors, the anti-burst latches are not happy being used on 2A doors. To use an s3 door on a 2A bulkhead you'd want to remove the s3 slider thingy and weld on the 2A door check thingy. If you look carefully at an S3 door vs a 2A door you'll see that they are quite different. Not like they cannot interchange, just that it will not be a simple matter of taking off the one and swapping the other.
Your reproduction 2A doors are close but not quite 100% exact The opening for the latch shows the rounded corners, not square. Small difference, I know (cz the early latches are unobtainable)

[o2batsea]

the skins underneath the hinges are corroded through to the frame not 100% I can save them!!

How are the frames? If they aren't too bad you can do what I did and have them galvanized and then put the skins back on.

[RoverDover]

How are the frames? If they aren't too bad you can do what I did and have them galvanized and then put the skins back on.

I didnt want to spend the money when reskinning my doors, so I filled a section of raingutter with industrial enamel with some urethane catalyst. dipped all 4 sides of the door frame into the paint and gave it a few good minutes to get into the crevices. it was a big dripping mess, but after some sanding and reskinning I know my door will be rust free for a long time as I filled them with rustproofing spray after assembly. I believe the raingutter is an ECR trick.

[o2batsea]

That's a great way to add life to the door frames. I would add one more step and that would be to soak them overnight in hydrochloric acid. That will derust the innards, and get all the traces of paint off.

[Les Parker]

Not wishing to be picky, but why would you want anti-burst locks on a IIa? Goes against the idea of keeping the original look, which is the aim of offering these doors. :nono:

[tristanaldrich]

the frames have been patched a couple of times by the previous owner


How are the frames? If they aren't too bad you can do what I did and have them galvanized and then put the skins back on.

[o2batsea]

Not wishing to be picky, but why would you want anti-burst locks on a IIa? Goes against the idea of keeping the original look, which is the aim of offering these doors. :nono:
I may be wrong but I think the non locking anti burst will fit those openings. Maybe not, I dunno, haven't tried and don't really care anyway. The latch holes appear to have those "Mickey Mouse ear" humps at the corners, like the anti bursts. As you know, 2A door latches are not available anymore. I actually popped for a full set of what was supposed to be 2A latches and they are for who knows what but not a 2A (these from Craddocks, so not some skeevy outfit). Those latches all have those round corners on the latch box. 2A latches are square at the corners of the riveted-on box. They are for sale by the way.

[o2batsea]

the frames have been patched a couple of times by the previous owner

Well, you can go aftermarket/repro if that doesn't bother you too much. Otherwise you will have to live with what you have. Maybe Mike at ECR still has some of those derelicts he was selling last year. They're good for parts. Go get one before the rain washes them away.

[busboy]

In stock, ready to ship.

http://landroverparts.roversnorth.com/ProductDesc.aspx?code=PLN341&type=0

Both LH and RH.

Those look like a nice product, I just wish you were closer to where I live, shipping across the border is a real pain. My 71 2a must be a very late one as it has one of each door latch on it both with keys. The pass side is an anti burst while the drivers a regular latch. I was under the impression they used the regular latch on the drivers door for longevity.

[albersj51]

There are 1 or 2 companies in the UK that make reproduction 2a doors for a reasonable price (including shipping). Original? No. Good enough for most? Yes. PM for details.
Also, if you fix your doors I would use phosphoric acid to clear the rust, not hydrochloric. Lastly, make sure you don't get the acid on the aluminum.

[o2batsea]

Phosphoric acid is gentler by far but won't take off paint. Hydrochloric does both derust and paint strip in one shot. It is very nasty angry stuff which must be used outdoors and with extreme caution. It gasses and bubbles like crazy but boy will it clean up rust. Phosphoric might be a good second pass as it will leave a coating of phosphate that will help paint stick. In each case the door frames must not get wet again or they will flash rust, pretty much putting you back a square 1. If you decide to galvanize, it might be a good idea to find a place in your area that does chemical stripping. They will throw everything in the tank and it will come out bare steel. You can then patch the bad areas with the door channel sold by our hosts. Then they'll be ready to dip.
Galvy is expensive in small lots. Generally $250 for up to 500lbs, If you can get a lot of stuff or a group order it then becomes very economical.
If I were just doing door frames I think I'd probably do the home acid dip followed by a dip in paint as suggested above.

[stomper]

The poor original poster was inquiring about bolting on a couple of new doors. In itself, not a very difficult task, and can be done with minimal difficulty by a beginning wrench turner. Now you are suggesting to him that he weld, chemical dip in heavy chemicals, pay for galvanizing, source parts from other vendors as our hosts offerings are "junk", and have everything torn appart and reassembled.

I actually know what I am doing around a Land Rover, and even I'm seeing stars and dollar signs swirling over my head! Buy some doors, swap the hardware over, slap some paint on them and drink a beer. Done!

No wonder no one frequents this forum anymore! :confused:

[TedW]

In my view the replacement door I bought from Rovers North is every bit as good as an original one I have. And yes, the RN door is a ProLine.

Ted

[o2batsea]

The poor original poster was inquiring about bolting on a couple of new doors.
You should look at that again.


Now you are suggesting to him that he weld, chemical dip in heavy chemicals, pay for galvanizing, source parts from other vendors as our hosts offerings are "junk", and have everything torn appart (sic) and reassembled.
He is repainting the whole truck. I don't know if that's being done professionally or with cans of Krylon in the driveway, or with a pan and roller or somewhere in the middle of all that. He doesn't say.

I never wrote that the doors that RN sells are "junk", they are reproduction. They are absolutely fine for anyone who doesn't care about keeping the original parts. Even Rover parts don't last forever. I actually considered those for a while until I went and redid my existing ones.
I think it's good to offer what I know as I have made the mistakes already, and paid the money. If the OP wishes to, they may take that for what it's worth.

[o2batsea]

In my view the replacement door I bought from Rovers North is every bit as good as an original one I have. And yes, the RN door is a ProLine.

Ted

And they are priced very attractively to boot. Go ask Ike what he wants for a good rust free 2A door that isn't mushed, if he can even find you one.