Separating Tansfer Case from the Transmission

[amcordo]

Before anyone says it: I can't find my green bible, so I don't have it to reference right now. I'll have to order another one.

I have the transfer case and transmission on my floor and I've removed the bolts connecting the two. Do I pry them apart, or do I need to open them up and do anything on the inside first? Don't want to damage the casing.

[I Leak Oil]

There are more hidden treasures holding it together on the inside. you need to remove the pan and drop out the intermediate gear cluster. You will then see the genious of the rover engineers....

[amcordo]

Thank you, Jason.

Genius. The same people who brought us this: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ht0dJHpBIWQ/Tl2NtS1QU6I/AAAAAAAAINk/9f3L2R8k0Hk/s1600/A1.jpg

[east high]

Under the rear bearing housing is the castelated main shaft lock nut. A special socket socket is required to remove it, or you can bubba it off with a punch and BFH. Once that is off the rest of the gears can be removed from the shaft and the t-box will separate from the gearbox.

What are you doing? I'm smack in the middle of rebuilding a transmission, so I might be able to add some fresh insight for you.

[amcordo]

Removing the stock transmission and installing an Advanced Adapters adapter with an SM465 and a new short block chevy.

[blue bomber]

Glad to see you are getting on with the swap. GET the green bible,
Cheers, Matthew.

[SafeAirOne]

Is there something wrong with the old transmission or you just doing an upgrade?

[I Leak Oil]

Removing the stock transmission and installing an Advanced Adapters adapter with an SM465 and a new short block chevy.
Get with the program Mark...:cool:

[SafeAirOne]

Get with the program Mark...:cool:

That's as "with the program" as I get at 5:53 AM. ;)


Too bad the old transmission's in Ohio--I've been keeping my eye out for a unit to replace my tired one.

[rwollschlager]

That's as "with the program" as I get at 5:53 AM. ;)


Too bad the old transmission's in Ohio--I've been keeping my eye out for a unit to replace my tired one.

Need a series III transmission rebuild candidate? ... I have a pile of them.

[SafeAirOne]

Need a series III transmission rebuild candidate? ... I have a pile of them.

Thanks, Rob--You just made it to #1 on the list of people to contact when the transmission rebuild hits the top of my priority list (it's climbing the charts rapidly with all the layshaft noise it's making).

[amcordo]

Yeah, if anyone's near Ohio I've got the transmission and a pile o' parts for it now.

[amcordo]

So about removing this thing...
-What's the name of this part?
-What's the name of the removal tool?
-If I just use a punch, which way am I rotating it to remove (from rear, clockwise, cclockwise?)
-Any special instructions for removing it, aside from locking the transmission so it doesn't rotate?

8163

[I Leak Oil]

There is a locking tab that needs to be bent back then you should be able to use a drift and a hammer to remove the nut. Looks like a regular lefty loosy thread.
I don't think it's necessary to remove the output gear to remove the intermediate cluster but if you plan on using it on your new setup you may as well.

[amcordo]

I do have to remove it for what I'm up to, but now I'm also confused (not hard to do since this is the first gearbox I've ever seen let alone touched).


Under the rear bearing housing is the castelated main shaft lock nut. A special socket socket is required to remove it, or you can bubba it off with a punch and BFH. Once that is off the rest of the gears can be removed from the shaft and the t-box will separate from the gearbox.

What is the castelated main shaft lock nut that I need to go at?

[east high]

It's the part you have circled in your photo.

[SafeAirOne]

What is the castelated main shaft lock nut that I need to go at?

It's that thing that you are pointing to in your pic. It's just like any other ordinary nut except that it requires a different socket (or a punch/drift) to install or remove it.

[Les Parker]

This is the special tool :-
http://landroverparts.roversnorth.com/Products.aspx?model=rnt0002

Though to just remove the gearbox away from the T. box it's not necessary to remove it.

Just the 3 nuts hidden by the intermediate gear.

[SafeAirOne]

Though to just remove the gearbox away from the T. box it's not necessary to remove it.

Just the 3 nuts hidden by the intermediate gear.

...which won't correctly fit any socket in your toolbox, though one can be made to work.

[amcordo]

...which won't correctly fit any socket in your toolbox, though one can be made to work.

Of course.

[amcordo]

OK, I'm being high maintenance about this thing. So I'm to the point where I have to pull the shaft from the intermediate gear. I've removed the little bolt and plate that hold it in, but all I have is a simple pitman arm puller. I'm not having luck using a lever and fulcrum to remove the shaft, so can someone tell me what sprocket puller I should get for this?

[SafeAirOne]

Make sure the vehicle is chocked and everything is in neutral and there's no force on the gears. That shaft will just fulcrum right out. There's nothing holding it in there really (except the external keeper that you presumably removed already).

Be prepared to catch the gear and bearings that will fall out with the shaft removed.

[amcordo]

The transfercase/transmission are out of the vehicle and on the floor. The gears move freely.

I tried to fulcrum it out using a pry bar and the handle from my pump jack, but it is just not budging. (that keeper tab is off). I still haven't removed the output shaft yet, but maybe I'll start on that to lessen the frustration.

[I Leak Oil]

Give the end of the intermediate shaft a couple swift raps with a soft hammer (brass) then try to pry it out again. You can also try prying it and tapping the end with a hammer at the same time. Once it frees up it should slide right out. Along with catching the bearings and gears, there will be thrust washers that come out with them. Make note of what end each set comes from and reassemble them in the same place.

[amcordo]

Closing this thread:

Found the biggest pry bar I could get at a Home Depot, had someone brace the transfer case to stop it from moving, then used the hooked side of the pry bar to put pressure on one side, and then on the other. popped free and slide out by hand after I put everything into it. Wow.

[SafeAirOne]

At least it wasn't leaking at the joint. ;)