Bushings!

[amcordo]

Would a tool like this work to remove and install our bushings?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bushing-Installer-Remover-Driver-Tool-Kit-Automotive-/281015156396?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416dcefeac

[SafeAirOne]

Ha! Good one!

[amcordo]

Ha! Good one!

...so, no? I see a lot of posts here and on other forums about people constructing their own, similar tools. Even a video on YouTube. I'd just rather purchase it. Any suggestions?

[Revtor]

If you're talking about the suspension/frame bushings, then I doubt it. Every account I've read about that process involved saws, torches, chisels etc etc.. I doubt hammering with this tool will move an old frame bushing.

~Steve

[o2batsea]

I doubt hammering with this tool will move an old frame bushing
Or install one either.

[SalemRover]

Hard to tell just looking at the picture of it online. Without knowing what steel its made of it could be a one and done sort of tool. There are so many infuriating ways to tackle this, it all depends on what sort of tools are on hand. I tend to cut with a narrowed sawzall blade and use an air chisel to drive it out. You do have to be careful not to cut into the frame, its a dicey proposition. If you want to throw money at this to solve it just take it to a garage

[disco2hse]

There is a tool (Bushwacka) that will do the job but it is very expensive. Have seen it in action (not used it myself) and it was quite efficient.

http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Bushwacka_Tools.html

http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/bushwaka.gif

[SafeAirOne]

Check this video out.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0a2mxp-FxYs

[SafeAirOne]

It would appear that we're prohibited from putting 2 videos in the same post, so here's the companion to the first video I just posted:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uN6YQT8UV_k

[ArlowCT]

That is slick!

[luckyjoe]

I kept a similar jack from our 1990 Corolla, intended for that exact purpose. Trouble is, it became such a useful jack that I never got 'round to cannibalizing it!

My next bushings will only be greaseable polys...

Tom P.

[Jim-ME]

Until you find that the shackle bolt is seized into the bush like 3 out of 4 of mine were but all in all it is slick.
Jim

[printjunky]

Thanks for the nightmares guys, as I get within a month of ordering parabolics.

[printjunky]

And the nightmare begins ...

Got it this far after more than an hour of trying various things. Finally got some purchase on a hacksawed edge with a punch. The bushing outer shell is so much a (very thin - like 1mm or less) part of the spring hanger that I can barely see the seam between the two.

Stopped the pounding so my neighbors could sleep. Let's see what tomorrow (and the driver's side) brings.8543

[o2batsea]

Get a mapp torch. heat the middle of the bushing. It will burn out in about ten minutes and you can just push the burning stinking nugget out onto the ground. Then you can put a sawzall or (Lord help you) a hacksaw thru the hole and cut thru the outer shell to free it from the chassis. You may have to curl it up and beat it out with a chisel, but it will be easy once the middle is out.
After you are done with demolition, clean it all up with sandpaper so that there's no rust in there.

[westcoastkevin]

Would a tool like this work to remove and install our bushings?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bushing-Installer-Remover-Driver-Tool-Kit-Automotive-/281015156396?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item416dcefeac

I have that little set of bushing drivers and they are handy for bench work. They are not even close to what you need for the frame bushings though.

I had very fast results with a burr in a die grinder to weaken the wall of the bushing and then drove them out. You can see the mushrooming on the driver where I was trying to remove them prior to weakening them. They came out easily after weakening them.

8544

[TedW]

My next bushings will only be greaseable polys...

Tom P.

I have the greaseable polys from Great Basin - well-made and e-z to install (and remove!).

Ted

[printjunky]

I have such a thin piece of the bushing outer shell stuck in there (see the pic in my previous post in this thread). The rubber was pretty much nonexistent, and the inner shell was VERY difficult to get off the bolt (but at least I could do that on a bench with a vise).

So before I got some of the stuck outer shell to peel back and started on its way out (I hope). I was thinking something like this would make pretty quick work of the thin piece of outer shell, and clean the hanger to the exact diameter. Never worked with this type of reamer - didn't even know that I knew they existed - but it's exactly what I "invented" in my head while I was under there hammering:

http://www.icscuttingtools.com/catalog/page_194.pdf

[Revtor]

reamers are only designed to cut a few thousandths at best. It would make a nice tool to clean out the bore afterwards though.

I like westcoastKev's die grinder approach. Thin out a section or two and then chisel away.

Less than a MM, you might be able to curl them out once you got a working edge?

Might be worth your sweat to buy a cheap or rent an air chisel?

I think I will be tackling this in the fall, so post up here what works for you!

[SafeAirOne]

Using one of those reamers on the remains of the bushing in your picture would absolutely destroy the $80 tool, A fresh bushing with the center removed might be a different story, though it'd take you forever to do.

I'm surprised that a simple radial cut through the outer bushing with a hack saw blade didn't relieve the outward pressure on the chassis tube and allow you to curl the bushing in at the saw kerf.

[ArlowCT]

I used a $30 air hammer with the sheet metal cutting bit. Once I burned out the rubber it took less than a min to tear into and drive out each outer shell. Money well spent if you have a compressor!

[printjunky]

Mark, I meant the reamer for before I'd peened anything over. I'd guess there's about .040" of the shell left, and before I started whacking at it, it was a smooth bore, just too small, of course to get the new bushing in.

And your recommendation, is exactly what I'm trying, but only tiny bits are peening over at a time. I assume it is so corroded to the hanger that it is tantamount to a single unit. I keep hoping it breaks free (soaked in penetrant overnight, even). I'm also trying to be conservative, and not cut into the hanger when I'm sawing, so theoretically, I'm not all the way through the entire length of the hanger on my cuts. But it's pretty hard to tell where the shell ends and the hanger begins (except on the edges).

Back out to it. might even be toughing out some rain while I do. :mad:

[SafeAirOne]

Mark, I meant the reamer for before I'd peened anything over. I'd guess there's about .040" of the shell left, and before I started whacking at it, it was a smooth bore, just too small, of course to get the new bushing in.

Ahh. Well, that's a different story then! It'd likely work, but you'd be there all day shaving off ten thousandths at a time. Plus you probably wouldn't get the opportunity to brush up on all your favorite swear words and other expletives!


Back out to it. might even be toughing out some rain while I do.

NOW you're living the [series] land rover lifestyle! :thumb-up:

[printjunky]

Well, I finally got this out.8564

I think the key was getting the cut all the way through. But as I said, it was very hard to tell until I was.

Unfortunately the new bushing is being very difficult. I have it about 40% in, and it is barely moving. That 40% took probably an hour. Tried several methods, but I don't really have the optimal dimension & strength bolt/washer setup. But with what I had, it was taking a very large amount of pressure to get it to move at all. We're talking 24" breaker bar pulling VERY hard. I wouldn't be surprised if that's generating 150lbs of torque. (using a shackle bolt through the bushing and the hanger into the threaded part of the shackle with a washer on the head end)

What's everyone's experience with the new bushings? These are the stock RM ones. Should I be expecting this much .... tenacity?

I might try dry ice on the other bushing/heating the hanger when I get to that one.

Giving up for tonight, getting eaten alive out there, and if I did get side done, I couldn't start the next one anyway cuz of the grinder noise when I cut the U-bolts.

And Mark, if you look back through my posts (and even some of our exchanges) you'll see that among other things (including a few crazy adventures like blowing out my rear main on the way back from Owl's Head when I was at UMaine some years ago) I've spent a very hot midwestern summer doing new cam/timing gear in the backyard, have done some major driveway winter wiring, and early this spring, replaced my flywheel when there was still snow on the ground, and I needed 3 or 4 layers. (and even with all those layers, I kept thawing the snowpack and freezing my back to the ground). And probably plenty I'm forgetting.

I consider the Series Rover Lifestyle to be fully indistinguishable from my life itself. Hahaha, and this week, it's been exhaustng.