Adjusting the clutch master cylinder

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  • sleam
    1st Gear
    • May 2010
    • 104

    Adjusting the clutch master cylinder

    Hi,
    How easy is it to adjust the clutch master cylinder?
    My Series III is having some odd clutch stuff go on, nothing major, but worries me. From what I've read, it could be as simple as adjusting the push rod. The pressure feels good but just not enough, as though if I could push the pedal another fraction of an inch I could have more play when changing gears. It's that the first part of pushing the pedal does nothing and then I feel the pressure give and when i release the pedal, there is only a small time for the gears/ gas to work and so often it's clunky! Especially if I feel stressed by the traffic or hill starts. Any suggestions please?

    1959 SII sold
    1972 SIII RHD 88" (current project!)
  • artpeck
    3rd Gear
    • Dec 2009
    • 368

    #2
    It is straight forward other than perhaps access and since I am not at my truck I don't recall if adjusting is easy or requires disassembly of the wing as it does for replacement. The green book should give you a clear picture of what's required. Before that however since this seems to have come on suddenly I would make sure it's not a fluid or bleeding issue or a slave issue. If you have lost release clearance that would imply a leak most likely that is resulting is less pressure to fully open the clutch.
    1995 NAS D-90 Soft Top, AA Yellow
    1973 Series III '88 Hard Top, Limestone
    1957 Series I, Deep bronze green

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    • pitchrollyaw
      Low Range
      • Apr 2012
      • 58

      #3
      On the SIII I believe you will have to loosen and then move the rear of the wing outward to adjust the master cylinder's free play (6mm) and pedal height (140mm, both per the GB). With your symptoms I'd be ready to o/h or replace the master and slave, I'd probably do that anyway if you are going through the trouble of pulling the wing.

      Now, when I repair/replace a master I also do the slave...based on my experience. My theory is a new master will push the old slave a little bit farther in the bore than it was and the seals get torn up in short order.

      w
      '72 Series III 88 "Greenie"
      '85 90 2.5NA "Stinky"

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      • morgant
        1st Gear
        • Jun 2009
        • 170

        #4
        If the Series III is the RHD you have in your signature, then you're in luck: there's no need to remove the wing to adjust the master cylinder's pushrod. Just take off the small plate covering the top (6 screws, IIRC) of the clutch pedal tower and you'll have access (although it's tight) to adjust. The Green Bible has a pretty good explanation of the correct adjustment, play, etc.
        rikuwoiku — to travel overland.
        1982 Series III 88" (RHD w/2.8L Daihatsu diesel)
        2002 Discovery II SE

        CentreSteer.com — A podcast by, for, and about Land Rover owners. (Panelist & Content Producer)

        SeriesParts.com — A master list of parts, part suppliers (our gracious hosts included), and repair shops for Series Land Rovers.

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        • sleam
          1st Gear
          • May 2010
          • 104

          #5
          Thanks folks, got a new master and slave coming and a friendly mechanic near by who's going to teach me how. I'll let you know if we hit any problems. Thanks for the info.
          s

          1959 SII sold
          1972 SIII RHD 88" (current project!)

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