Engine Swap

[rbbailey]

i will be doing an engine swap as soon as i get a chance. it seems like a pretty straight forward project, but what are some things i should know? any tips tricks or things to watch out for?

it is a 65 IIa, and the engine is from the same vintage, but may not be exct year.

thanks.

[ArlowCT]

It can be done fairly easily by pulling just radiator. But if you have more time I suggest pulling the front fenders and the breakfast. If you don't have an engine hoist a lot of local rental places might have one.

[I Leak Oil]

Think about replacing the clutch if you know it has any significant mileage. Good time to replace the exhaust manifold studs too. Need to change the steering rod joints between the box and relay? Do it now...New motor mounts.

[LR Max]

Zip lock bags and a sharpie. You know those bolts you just took off? Yeah, they look EXACTLY like all the other bolts...but they are slightly different. Whenever you take apart anything, put them all in the same ziplock and mark them. Will make things A LOT easier when it comes time to reassemble.

Take your radiator and heater core to a radiator shop while everything is out. Also think of upgrading the alternator to a 12si while you are at it. As others have said, great time to do the clutch, also look at doing the throwout bearing and rear main seal. You are there anyway, might as well do it. Oh and new motor mounts.

Get a couple pieces of 2x4. When you remove the engine, stick a little piece of 2x4 between the transmission bell housing and the transmission crossmember. It'll hold it up quite well.

Lastly, while you are in there, hit the chassis with POR15 if it needs it.

Dunno, just throwing things out there for you to consider. Good luck!

[rbbailey]

Thanks for the info.

What is the weight of one of these engines, within 50 lbs or so, for fluid and some of the bits still attached, or not?

[LaneRover]

If I remember correctly a British Military rebuilt engine - ie ALL the bits attached as well as the stout case it comes in came to about 750lbs. If I am wrong someone will let you know real soon!

[Revtor]

timing chain tensioner, water pump.

dont forget to undo all of the ground straps or else you'll rip em and then have to rebuild them.

might think about doing the freezeplugs also while the engine is out. easy job with the engine out. impossible with the engine in place. witht hte plugs out you can really blast all the **** out from the coolant passages. I had alot of sand and rusty muck. . .

[Les Parker]

750 lbs is the figure we generally work with. Spot on !

[rbbailey]

OK, so I picked up an engine stand. Before I put it on and promptly drop it, what actually is the proper way to mount one of these to a 2.25 engine? It's pretty much this: http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...ed=0CGIQ9QEwBA

[ArlowCT]

I have always mounted mine to where the bell housing bolts up.

[rbbailey]

So the flywheel housing has the studs coming out of it to the rear. Do I use those studs and the nuts from the bell housing?

[ArlowCT]

I think I pulled some of those studs out and ran long bolts through the arms on the stand into those holes. Used stacks of washers to make the bolts the right length. You can also remove the flywheel and bell housing adaptor from the block and blot right to the block.

[rbbailey]

Thanks for the help on this.

OK, so I've got some time to work on it this weekend, taking the good parts off the old engine and putting them on the "new" engine, cleaning it up, sealing to try to keep the oil from escaping, and maybe painting bits.

I'm out there pulling a distributor and I'm thinking it would be good to get both engines to TDC on #1 -- how? I think I remember doing it on the old engine while looking up underneath and actually seeing the piston at TDC. But how do you do this with an engine on the stand? Do you have to pull the cover? Oil pan? etc...