Quick Dumb Question: Hard top Disassemble

[LR Max]

Hi Guys,

Quick question. I'm wanting to take apart my hard top (installing new sides). Is there going to be any pitfalls I should know about? I plan on replacing the mounts on the body mounts while I'm there. Possibly the rear door hinges? Any other pieces I should replace?

Also on a side note, what has everyone done for a head liner? I'm thinking of installing some light insulation (sound absorbing to prevent rattling, would complement other sound insulation inside the truck) and maybe even a sun roof. Hopefully one big enough you can stand up and out of ;)

[disco2hse]

It is pretty simple really. I don't think I'd remove the whole roof and just one side at a time. Support the rear end while you work on each side.

When you reassemble use all new fastenings and include a bead of neutral silicon in all the joinings prevent leaking.

There is a range of noise reduction materials on the market. Best if someone nearer to you answers with information about what is locally available.

[rwollschlager]

for a headliner check out what mercedes Jim did: http://seriestrek.com/headliner.html

The neutral silicon will work, but what I have done that is less messy is a layer or two of the foam "truck cap" tape.

Good luck!
-Rob

[stomper]

I've seen a few build threads over on the UK forums that recommend buying camping mats, and cutting them to size to make the insulation. I think Jim's approach is an excellent way to go. The only other suggestion would be to buy a pricey one from Badger if you are into the originality thing.

[siii8873]

I did the camping pad method covered with a headliner cloth. Cleaned top, used contact cement for foam, and a 3m adhesive for cloth. I bought about 10 army mats on Ebay for cheap.
86868687

[LR Max]

Nice! What did you think? What did you cover over the camping mats?

[luckyjoe]

Max,

I used EZ-Cool insulation and marine hull liner. The EZ-Cool is almost weightless, and foil backed so it provides decent insulation.
86888689

Here is the finished product...
8694

[S11A]

I would suggest budgeting for all new seals between sides and bed and the sides and roof. Maybe also the top seal on the rear door, and the ones at the front of the sides / behind the front doors and on top of the doors. (Consider the Defender one-piece ones.) Probably the one that goes between the windscreen and roof too. There is a small seal that goes at the top of the B pillar (RNF527). These may all be reusable on yours so inspect them and see which ones you can reuse vs which will need replaced. But at least get a sense of what you could be in for price-wise.

You will also likely need the rubber mounts/buffers that go on top of the studs at each corner (RNB888). These may also be the same ones that are used the hold-down tabs that tie the middle of the side panels to the bed galvanized cap - I can't tell on mine since the rubber pieces there on mine had pretty much bio-degraded.

If you are installing new (used) side panels with windows, you may want to go with the Rocky Mountain SS and rubber channels as replacements for the stock ones, or our hosts have the factory types. (I just received the RM ones for my project - I am making custom 109 side panels with two windows per side, using all the parts from 4 of the 88 side panels.)