Introduction and some general questions.

[copedog]

Hi All,

New member here. New to LRs as well.

I have run across a 65 IIa for sale locally and I have spent a good bit of time researching here the last few days. I would like to get conformation on what I have learned and also ask a few questions after I go see the truck in person tomorrow.

I will be using the truck on my ranch 90% of the time as a run around vehicle. This task I'm sure it will handle fine.

The other 10% I would like to flat tow (4 wheels down) behind my motorhome for trips out west. In researching here it seems that the Series Rovers can handle this multiple ways. I have read that it is OK to just to put the transfer case in neutral, tranny in 4th and go. Lots of stuff spinning and probably not the best option. Secondly, these LRs have full floating axles BOTH front and rear. This means that I can put locking hubs on all 4 wheels and roll with them unlocked and nothing spins. I did read a little about possible wheel bearing issues for log hauls this way. Some guys pack the bearings for an extra measure of security. Lastly, guys even pull the half axles and go. My preference would be to put on hubs only when I'm taking a trip and use the flanges when at home.

So, am I on the right track?? Anyone done this behind an RV?? Are hubs hard to find?? How can I ID the axles that are on it???

This truck looks like it has replacement fenders (wings) as they have headlights and turn signals along with headlights inboard (on the breakfast?). My guess is that somewhere along the line newer model fenders were added. Should this raise any flags?? What else can I check to make sure its not a franken monster????

I'll take lots of pics and post them after I see it.

Thanks in advance,
Scott

[rwollschlager]

as far as towing, you are in the right track! you have to engage the transmission in 4th so that it lubricates everything in there. The locking hubs are the safest way to go, in case your truck pops out of gear while flat towing. You should not have any wheel bearing issues flat towing with the two sets of locking hubs so long as you're on top of your lubrication (like with any trailer).

You should have the standard rover 10 spline axles, which would need the Warn M-11 type hubs (arguable the best available) or most other 10 spline hub will do. I don't believe there would be a huge benefit to keep swapping between hubs and flanges, except to save wear on the hubs, which should not be significant anyway. To ID the axles, pop off the dome/conical (chrome at one time) cap to see the end of the axle shaft at the drive flange, count the splines, some of the later trucks had 24 spline outers, but your's is more than likely just a 10 spline.

Post pictures, thats the best way to determine if its a franken rover. The double headlight thing is pretty common, and if you have a metal dash, your truck is combination of II/IIA, plastic dash indicates series III. If your first and second gear are syncrho'd (no need to double clutch) then you have a series III transmission. There are some differences between II and III, but largely speaking they are the same animal and having a franken rover wont be that big of a deal to handle.

good luck!
-Rob

[SafeAirOne]

Speaking personally, I wouldn't bother with swapping back to solid drive flanges. Just keep the locking hubs on all 4 wheels all the time.

[copedog]

Thanks for the replys. I'm going to go look this afternoon.

[LR Max]

X2 on FWH on all four. Warns are the best but if you can't find them, superwinch makes a good pair. I've got em on my truck and they are great. Very tough and easy to engage/disengage.

As others have said, open em up and see what you've got. Then its easy to buy the right ones...the first time!

[copedog]

Alright guys,

Went to see the truck today. I did read the lrfaq.com list of what to look for before heading out, especially frame rust issues.

Frame looks sound. No issues that I could see. Light surface rust, but nothing bad.

Mechanically it needs a little work. It has not been driven much since the current owner purchased it 2+ years ago. It started but didn't run real great and we had to leave the choke on a bit in order to keep it running. Took it for a spin around the block and it was overheating by the time we got back. It definitely has no-scyncro 1st and 2nd so series II trans. Did not try 4X4 as we were only on pavement. Diffs looked fine. Hopefully someone can confirm type from the pics. Usual leaks.

Body looks good. I did take a picture of the front end with dual lights.

Interior needs work. There is no front seat, just some padded seats sitting on the "hump". The floor looks to have been covered in a foil backed sound deadener and then a carpet placed over it. I did look the floors over from the underside and they look sound so I don't think it was put in to cover up anything. There are rear jump seat frames laying in the back that need cushions. The dash consists of 2 gauges, speedo and fuel/amps. Not sure if they worked. Electrical looks like it will need some work as well. Lots of stuff cut like the wipers.

Overall the frame and body look good. Its hard to tell how deep the mechanical issues go without more digging.

I'll try to post some pics.

Comments welcome.

Thanks,
Scott

[copedog]

Frame

8791
8792

[copedog]

More frame

8793
8794

[copedog]

Front diff ( rear is in first frame pic)
8795

Franken Front End
8796

[copedog]

Engine

8797
8798

Thanks for looking guys. Let me know what you think.

Scott

[mearstrae]

Looks pretty decent. Mechanicals and electrics can be fun to work through, pretty straight forwards stuff. With the extra inboard lights you have a neat place to put some high power driving lights, or just be glad for the extra lighting. That Royal Auto Club badge is really cool! Pick up a Green Bible and go to town...

'95 R.R.C. Lwb
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[Contractor]

From the few pictures, it looks like a pretty solid truck.

It appears to be missing the galvanized cappings below the door tops, but that is not a huge deal.

I am in the process of buying a 69' that had a similar headlight configuration that came from the factory like that. Having said that, I do not believe yours to be factory because of the year.......anyway, enjoy the extra light. .

Do you have any other pictures?

[copedog]

Here are the rest of the pics.

88088809881088118812881388148815

I was focused in on frame issues and trying to make sure it was not a fraken-rover when I went to see it. I will go again if I get serious.

I have since found out I can find the serial on the front right spring hanger. The data plates, if still there, are covered by the sound deadener. The deadener also covers up the seat box area so I need look around there as well.

Contractor, thanks for the comment. The caps you speak of are between the door and window area (removable door top)??? This is the first rover I have ever set eyes on so any other observations are helpful.

I have learned alot from this site already and wish to thank all who have contributed.

[stomper]

Looks like it has a IIa transmission by the shift lever. It also is hard to tell, but are the windshild wiper motors correct for a series rover? The shape of the housings looks odd to me.

[Contractor]

Take a look at my IIA, here are the cappings I am talking about.

http://images1.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp%3B%3C9%3Enu%3D3244%3E8%3B5%3E559%3E WSNRCG%3D3639%3A265%3C9325nu0mrj

The only other thing I can really tell from your pictures is that the swivel balls leak which is not uncommon. It's an easy fix and not something I would even worry about. It also appears to have parabolic springs and new shocks which I would consider a + for sure.

[copedog]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I think I'm gonna go back and look at it again.

I'll try to get the serial from the spring hanger and take more pictures and post them up. Especially the interior.

His bottom dollar is 5k.

Copedog

[copedog]

Finally got time to stop and see the rover again. Here are the pics:

8836883788388839884088418842

[copedog]

More

8843884488458846884788488849

[copedog]

More again.

88508851885288538854

[copedog]

Let me know what you guys see and anything you see missing or out of place.

Thanks,
Scott

[SafeAirOne]

Finally got time to stop and see the rover again. Here are the pics:

It's been a while. What is the purpose of these pics? Don't want to have to re-read the whole thread again...

[copedog]

^^^ Feed back on missing parts and general comments for a newbie looking to purchase first rover.

[SafeAirOne]

Ahh.

Well I suspect the gearshift lever knob isn't original.

Of course there's the door bottom galvanized cappings that are absent, but you know about that.

Other than that, it looks pretty normal to me.

[rwollschlager]

Everything looks pretty straightforward to me. Usually a big red flag for me is when the lug nuts, drive flanges, valve stems, and rims are all slap dash painted the same color, to me that indicates a quick and dirty cosmetic touch up and makes me investigate the rest of the truck much more closely. In one of your pictures the bolts for the tub to the frame are missing, kind of odd, and the hole in the frame near the steering box is...unique. From your comprehensive set of pictures though, it appears as if its very solid otherwise.
What is the seller asking?
-Rob

[bugeye88]

Not unusual overall for a 65 2a driver. Few parts here and there are odd (green skull shift ball!, weird lighting set up) but just needs some TLC and as mentioned... the Green Bible. Shift lever is non 65, but they break all the time (usually right at the base and when your not near home) For $5K probably a go in my opinion, but some work ahead.

[o2batsea]

Looks like one of those British "restorations" that got shipped over here by someone who didn't know what to look for. Someone painted EVERYTHING that sand color. Like jeez buy a roll of masking tape for crissakes. Ditto the white top and wheels. At least the entire undercarriage was not hosed black with undercoating snot or that Waxoyl schmidt.
Sorta like buying a dolled up roller that MAY have a crapload of troubles. Or it may not. You gotta ask why it's for sale and what it needs. It has a lot of random holes that have been drilled in it over the years.
I can guess by the Parabolic springs and the 4 headlights that this has been treated to some of the more popular modifications over the years. Putting the late wings on with the extra headlights was at one time the "thing". Unfortunately, the old wings were often forgotten about and mislaid or trashed. You'll have a heart attack when you find out how much a good set of original 2A wings cost these days...if you can even find any.....
If it were me I would make an offer based on the 10-12 grand it will take to bring it into the modern world. A bare-bones version like that one won't bring a whole ton of money after it's done, so don't buy with your heart, buy with your head...

[I Leak Oil]

Looks like a good solid foundation to have some fun with. Given what other series trucks are going for the asking price of 5K probably isn't too unreasonable.

Get a GOOD look at that frame and bulkhead and do a compression test on the engine.

And I, for one, like the green skull shift knob. If you want to get rid of it let me know!

[copedog]

Thanks for the feedback guys!!

My plan is to get it reliable mechanically, then use it. Not really looking to do a full restore.

If I get it, look for more advise requests from me.

Scott

[copedog]

Picked up this rover on Saturday after the seller and I agreed on a price.

I'm sure I'll be looking for advise here soon.

Thanks for all the feedback so far.

Scott