Motor Swap 90 Classic

[Bustedknuckles]

Im new to the Rover world, but couldn't help but go all in my first go and buy 2 of them. So, I have one with good drivetrain and rusted out body, and another with a good body and bad motor. So hopefully I can make one awesome rover out of the lot. Ill be putting the good motor in within the next few weeks. What type of maintenance items should I consider while the motor is out? It has new belts, new hoses, and ignition wires and I picked up a waterpump for it. The motor runs well, but was thinking about doing a compression test, is this easier while motor is still in the vehicle? Are there other things that are cheap and much easier to do with the motor out? What types of quirky Rover things should I inspect? Im just planning on getting it reliable and roadworthy for now, so Im not too worried about expensive upgrades. Ive been looking around the forum for hints, but figured I would ask before ordering parts.

[mearstrae]

Easier while still in the vehicle. Give the engine a compression check, mostly to be sure a head gasket isn't blown. If you can, also give the cooling system a pressure test, also to be sure that a head gasket isn't blown. As you may have guessed, this is a common problem with Rover V-8's. Other than that give the engine a good clean, so you can see any visual problems, and not get all mucky while swapping the engine. And... get a good repair manual, like the RAVE CD manual (also, available on-line for free) or a printed shop manual. These will save you a lot of time and trouble when trying to sort out a problem. These engines are like American V-8's (well they are derived from the early 60's Buick Skylark 215's), but the electrical systems are a bit strange. So, I think (after working on a few of these and some Discoverys) the cooling system and electrical systems are the source of more than 80% of the Rover V-8 troubles.

'95 R.R.C. Lwb
'76 Series III Hybrid 109
'70 Rover 3500S

[o2batsea]

be sure a head gasket isn't blown. If you can, also give the cooling system a pressure test, also to be sure that a head gasket isn't blown. As you may have guessed, this is an added feature of Rover V-8's.
Fixed it.
One thing I always do is replace the exhaust manifold studs that connect the Y pipe. Sludge them up with anti seize and use new nuts and gaskets when installing the Y pipe. Makes future removal an almost pleasant experience. I also would see about the manifold bolts that go into the block. A fresh set along with new keepers wouldn't hurt. Replace the heater hoses that attach to the heater unit thru the bulkhead. They totally suck to get at with the engine in.
Install new motor mounts. Around here they seem to always ding you on mm if nothing else at inspection.
Otherwise there are quirky things but not necessarily engine related. Make sure that you loosen and lubricate the pivot pin of the bell crank arm on the transmission brake. They get rusty/sticky and act like the shoes are stuck when they aren't. The transfer case selector linkage is so rarely used that it will often rust weld in place. Make sure that you check it. Once you do be sure to exercise it every once in a while.
The heater blower fan speed resistor is another weak point. It lives under the cowl panel. If it is no good you may have only one fan speed for the AC and heat, or no fan at all. You can get a solid state replacement, I don't think the genuine are available any more.
You will want to remove the cowl panel, which means removing the bonnet, the wiper arms and then the bolts that hold it in place. Total pain in the butt.
Also the heater blower may be inop. There's nothing to be done but replace the heater unit, but you can try a trick first. Remove the instrument binnacle and dash. You'll see the fan housing in the top center. Cut a hole in the plastic to allow you to get some WD40 down into the fan motor (it's to the left) and try to work it loose with a probe or screwdriver. The bearing gets a little rust in it and the fan motor conks out. If you can work it loose you're good. Gorilla tape the hole and replace the dash. If not, you're 2/3 of the way to getting the heater assembly out. They can be repaired if you are really patient but a good used one is a better bet.
The rest of the usual list; headliner, wood trim, body rust, tailgate rot, central locking, etc can be addressed later.

[Bustedknuckles]

Thanks for the tips! Ill be checking those out as time/finances allow. And of course Ill be adding pics and updates.